Sometimes there are things that we want to show you how to do with our new pattern releases, that we just can’t figure out how to add to the main pattern without making it a mile long. So instead, we create these fun “easy hacks” blog posts, and help you take your pattern one step further.

Or in the case of this blog post, THREE steps further! 

Today we are going to show you:

• How to add a lining (for those sheer fabrics in your stash).
• How to add a ruffle neckline.
• How to add a waistband and make a separate skirt.

---

HOW TO ADD A LINING

Don’t discount sheer fabrics when deciding which to use for the new Charleston Crossover! I’ve been saving this gorgeous (and spendy) silk jersey for just the right pattern and it was just a *touch* too sheer for my comfort.

No worries! Just add a lining! 

I lined the bodice and skirt using a slinky cupro that matched the feel of my silk jersey.

Here’s the how-to.

Cut a set of your front and back bodice and skirt pieces out of your lining. Your skirt lining will need to be a few inches shorter than your main fabric. I cut mine 3 inches shorter.

Sew your bodice main pieces and bodice lining pieces at the shoulder seams.

With right sides together, pin and sew your bodice lining and main together along the neckline. 

I added clear elastic to my seam because both of my fabrics have a lot of drape. You may find that your fabrics have enough recovery to skip the elastic.

Understitch your seam allowance to your lining.

From this point, assemble the bodice per the pattern instructions, treating the bodice main and lining as one piece. I highly recommend basting your seams before sewing them. You are handling several layers of fabric in the side seam.

Next, sew your skirt side seams together on both the main and the lining pieces.

You have options after this point. You can baste the skirt and lining along the waistline with wrong sides together or with lining right side to main wrong side. 

I chose to do the latter because I didn’t want my seams to rub against each other. If you prefer a cleaner look on the inside of your skirt, sew with wrong sides together.

Again, baste your skirt and lining together at the waistline and complete the construction of your dress per pattern instructions.

Another note of personal preference… I chose to serge the hemline of my lining and left it as is. I didn’t add a proper hem. It seemed unnecessary! 

Enjoy your pretty new dress! It requires a lot of twirling when you wear it!

---

HOW TO ADD A RUFFLE NECKLINE

This pattern just calls for adding a little something extra to the neckline!

Step 1: Cut ruffle piece. I cut my ruffle at 2.75″ tall by 4x the binding piece. I wanted less seams, so I cut 2 long strips at 2x the width of the neck binding strip.

Step 2: Gather your ruffle. 

Step 3: Sew shoulder seams of bodice, then find quarter points.

Step 4: Find the quarter points on your ruffle AND your bodice neckline. Pin/clip gathered ruffle to front neckline, wrong side of ruffle to right side of bodice. Add a basting stitch if you’d like. Pin/clip ruffle 1/2″ away from the edge of the bodice on the side that will face out.

Step 5:  Pin/Clip binding piece right sides to right sides on top of the gathered ruffle, and sew.

Step 6: Topstitch binding, and construct the rest of your top/dress as normal.

What you end up with is an incredibly adorable (ruffle added) Charleston Crossover!

Thanks for sharing with us Jessica!

---

HOW TO ADD A WAISTBAND + MAKE A SKIRT

Have you been eyeballing the skirt from the Charleston Crossover but want it on it’s own, as a separate piece? Same. SAMEEEEEE.

Well let me tell you: it’s super easy to make happen.

Simply follow the skirt construction portion of the Charleston Crossover tutorial. Completely omit the bodice, as we won’t need it for this sewing project. What we will need is a waistband…so here’s a quick cut chart for that.

The measurements below are included as LENGTH x WIDTH. (Width = stretch of fabric) Inches are rounded to the nearest .25, Centimeters are rounded to nearest .1

Assemble skirt as instructed in Charleston Crossover tutorial.

Fold waistband in half, right sides together, matching along short side.

Stitch along short side, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband piece, with right sides together, creating loop.

Mark quarter points on waistband and skirt.

Match quarter points on waistband and skirt. 

**Waistband is slightly smaller than skirt opening. You’ll need to stretch waistband to fit when sewing.

Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband up, away from skirt. Steam + press.

Wear the heck out of your new skirt because it’s the cutest!

---

We hope you love the easy hacks we provided, and are thrilled to see what you sew for yourself using the Charleston Crossover pattern! It is available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, May 24, 2023.

Charleston Crossover

We always have fun showing off a few ways to modify our new patterns to give you even more options! Here are some quick and simple hacks to the new Circe Swim Top and Brizo Bikini Bottoms!

CIRCE-ADDING THICKER UNDERBUST ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more underbust support, here is the hack for you.  Since this add a lot more support and stability, you might consider sizing up as it will feel much tighter wrapping around you that the normal sizing. Cut and assemble your top until the step where you stitch elastic into the bottom edge.

You’re going to not attach elastic along the back and just an inch or two into the front bodice. Just baste or stitch together with no elastic on this center section.

We’re going to cut our thicker swim elastic (I have 3/4″ here) from the front wrap section (the top corner) to the bottom side seam of the bodice, around the back and to the opposite side.

Making sure to match center backs, we’re going to pin the elastic to the seam allowance along the section we left with no elastic.

Stitch elastic to the seam allowance along this section. Make sure to use a stretch stitch. After stitching the center back section, flip the seam allowance like it will be once the top is flipped right sides out. Pin end of the elastic to the seam allowance at the top corner of the bodice. Stitch end of elastic to the seam allowance here.

Repeat on opposite side.

Continue the rest of the top as the tutorial instructs. Flipping rights side out, closing side seam hole and optional top-stitching.

Enjoy the extra support and stability.

 

 

CIRCE- THICKER STRAP ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more support on the shoulder straps, but love the look of the thin strap option…  here is perfect hack for you! You can up the elastic in thin strap easily.  Here I’m using 3/4″ swim elastic instead of the 1/4″, but you can use whatever width you’d like.  Remember, this will make the straps feel tighter, so you may need to slightly adjust the length.

Do a little math… whatever width you choose add double the difference from the 1/4″ to the strap pieces.  I used 3/4″, which is 1/2″ wider than the original. So, I added 1″ to the strap width pieces.

You will also need to add a little width to pickups on the main front bodice pieces.  You will add the width split on each side of the pick up.  So, I needed to add 1/2″ total to my pick up width.  I added 1/4″ on each side of the pick up.

Sew up the Circe just like the tutorial has you sew up the thin strap option and enjoy your thicker straps 🙂

CIRCE- RING HACK

Sew up your Circe all normally, but grab a gate ring and have a new, fun way to wear your top!

CIRCE- CLASP HACK

Want a different look instead of the back waist ties? Try adding a swimsuit clasp. For this hack, you will need to begin by finding your center back measurement. Measure from the side seam to the center of your back either using a tape measure around your back and splitting the measurement in half, or using the tie pattern piece pinned to mark the center back. Mark this new line on the tie pattern and cut four shorter ties (2 lining and 2 main) from the new piece. (For this hack, I am using the thick tie option. If you are using the thin ties, your pieces will not need much modifying and you may want to use a smaller clasp.)

Follow the sewing tutorial as written, except I recommend sewing the last two inches of the tie with your sewing machine and leaving off the elastic. This will help reduce bulk and allow you to easily add your swim clasp. Once you get to the step of basting your ties closed, it is a great time to turn it right side out and check the fit. You may find you need to shorten your ties to get the fit you like. Make any needed adjustments. You can see here I modified the thick tie to better fit my 1 inch swim clasp. I tapered down the tie so that it would fit into the clasp without too much gathering of the fabric.

Add your swim clasp by taking one tie and sliding the end of the tie through the closed portion of the clasp. Make sure the hook is pointed down. Wrap the fabric around the clasp towards the back of the suit. The fabric may gather slightly to fit. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. Next, create the loop portion by taking the opposite tie and folding the suit back on itself. You need to create a small tube for the clasp to enter. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. You want this line about 1/2 inch from the edge. It needs to be large enough for the clasp to fit into, but not so large that the clasp shifts too much with wear. Try the suit on and check the placement of the clasp.  Make any needed changes. Then stitch closely to the clasp with a stretch stitch and on the opposite tie to create the loop.

And now you have a swim top with a clasp closure.

 

 

SOLID FRONT BRIZO BOTTOM

Don’t have coordinating fabrics for your Brizo Bikini Bottom? Just grab the full lining front piece on either the high rise or the v rise and sew them up with a solid front!

We just love showing off simple ways to add even more options to our already full patterns!

On our new Uptown Joggers you can create a more straight leg, ankle length pant by simple leaving off the cuffs. Here are some our beautiful tester Joelle did just like this!

You can also use the cargo top tabs on the back pockets too! Here I am showing off this look with just one pocket and our gorgeous tester Teri did both sides in this style.  Simply add the top tab above the back pocket following the same instructions for the cargo pocket.  We both happen to use the shorts length, but you can of course do this hack with the pant length as well.

Have fun hacking along with us! Don’t forget to share your makes with us.