Blog - Patterns for Pirates

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 3

August 25, 2021

Welcome to day 3 of our Rainbow dress sew along!

Today we create the collar and baste it to the front bodice. You will notice that the collar lining pieces are slightly smaller than the main lining. That is intentional, it will help the collar lay nice and flat once sewn. The Rainbow dress collar can be woven or knit. I strongly encourage you to interface at least the lining piece with a woven interfacing, such as Pellon SF101.

I have decided to add a little extra detail to my Rainbow dress collar so you will see how I incorporate piping in this project. I prefer store bought piping because it saves me the effort and time, but you can certainly make your own. To create your piping from scratch, simply cut strips of woven fabric that are 1.25″ wide on the bias. Press the strip lengthwise wrong sides together. Lay your cord in the crease and stitch with a long straight stitch as close to the cord as possible. OR….go to Joann or Walmart and grab some pre made piping 😉

Pin the piping to the outer curve of the main collar pieces, aligning the raw edges. Start about 1/2″ lower than the top and finish about 1/2″ from the end, veering your piping. This detail will ensure that there is no extra bulk in the shoulder seam or neckline. Baste it in place. I show you this step in the day 3 video.

Tip: use a zipper foot when working with piping!

Now that the piping is added, place your lining piece over the main, right sides together. Ease the collar pieces as show in Judy’s video below and stitch.

Turn the two collar pieces right side out and give them a good steam press! Optionally, you can top stitch the outer edge. If you added piping, use the zipper foot when top stitching.

The final step for today is to baste your collar to the front bodice. Align the raw edges of the collar with the neckline and shoulder seam. Remember that for the adult Rainbow dress this option is only available for the high neckline.

You can see how I created the collar in the day 3 video below. Once you complete these steps, add your check in photo in the comments of day 3 pic. You can find the check in album on FB, in our sew along group.

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 7 | Winners Announcement

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 2

August 24, 2021

Welcome to the second day of our Rainbow dress Sew Along! Today we create the skirt by sewing the colorblock pieces and adding the the optional pockets. But let’s be honest here, who would skip the pockets? 😉

I love to lay the pieces in order (1 to 5) on the table, right side up to make sure I don’t mix them up. Place piece 5 over piece 4 and sew along the edge. I like to use my serger for this step (just remember the seam allowance is 1/2″!) however, you can sew the colorbloking part with a straight stitch. That part of the skirt will not be stretched when worn.

Top stitching the seams is optional, however, encouraged. I don’t like the feel of the seam allowance against my skin so I always top stitch it down. You can do this with your coverstitch, twin needles or just a simple straight stitch.

It’s pockets time! Using the marking on the pattern, place your pocket pieces on the skirt, right sides together. Sew this step with your sewing machine! I show you in today’s video how to alternate between the sewing machine and serger when you add pockets to the skirt.

You can see how I create my skirt in the video below. Once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo. You can find the Rainbow dress SAL album in the M4M/P4P sew along group on Facebook.

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 7 | Winners Announcement

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 1

August 23, 2021

Welcome to the 🌈 Rainbow🌈 Dress SEW ALONG!

Day 1 is reserved for printing the pattern and cutting the fabric. But first, if you have not purchased the Rainbow dress you can grab it here. If you’re sewing for a little one, a youth pattern is available too. You will get the most bank for your buck with the Bundle option, just think of all the matching dresses and tops! Before you select which style you are sewing along, browse over the Round Up Blog where we show you all options available.

Now that you have the patterns it’s time to select which file format you would like to use. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric.

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. Our most recent patterns include videos as well so be sure to check them out!

: Youth Metric

: Youth Imperial

: Youth Metric

: Adult Imperial

Let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using Bamboo Spandex from Hissy Fit Fabrics for my dress. This is by far my favorite knit type for this pattern. I also like a soft Cotton Spandex, sweater knit, Rayon Spandex, Modal, ITY, Cupro and Double Brushed Poly for it. All these bases can be layered so beautifully for cooler weather.

Hissy Fit Fabrics is also the sponsor for this sew along so our two lucky winners will receive gift cards to their shop.

If you are unsure about which knit type will work best for your desired look, take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. Judy also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric.

I decided to add a cute piping detail to my collar. I love store bought piping but you can certainly make your own or just use faux piping.

Day 1 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 1 photo of the Rainbow Dress SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 7 | Winners Announcement

Rainbow Dress :: New Pattern Release!!

August 13, 2021

Happy pattern release day, y’all!!

We are SO SUPER DUPER EXCITED to share all about the newest pattern releases we have over at Patterns for Pirates today! The Rainbow Dress is drafted for both adult and youth sizes and you are about to be as smitten with the pattern as we are!

The Rainbow Dress is such a fun and unique pattern that can be used to create a classic and simple dress or top or add all the fun details and create something extrodary! No matter what the dress option will have you feeling twirly and beautiful! The sleeve options will take you all year round.

Rainbows aren’t really your thing? That’s okay too, we included a plain skirt option as well. And to make sure you weren’t left with no fun details we also added a fun gathered sleeve option, pockets, and an adorable peter pan style front collar.

The Rainbow Dress is drafted for high stretch knits like cotton spandex, double brushed poly, spandex rib knits, medium weight sweater knits, ITY, DTY, and the like. The peter pan collar however can be made in a woven, so you can use that non-stretch lace that looks so classic and cute.

This dress was designed by my very own Rainbow Baby who happens to love rainbows. I couldn’t imagine doing a rainbow dress without also supporting our friends in the LGBTQAI+community with the pattern, so a small proceeds of all sales will go to the Trevor Project and Share Pregnancy and Infant Loss Support (10% calculated at the end of each year). So, if you purchase this pattern you can not only enjoy the fun, twirly, unique design, but also feel great that you’re helping support communities in need.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

The options include:

Gathered Sleeves w/cuffs (in short, 3/4 and long lengths)
Fitted sleeves (in short, 3/4 and long lengths)
Full circle skirt (plain or rainbow colorblocked)
Crop and Top length shirt bodices
Two necklines + optional Peter Pan collar for the higher version
Optional pockets

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

GATHERED SLEEVES

FITTED SLEEVES

PLAIN / RAINBOW COLORBLOCKED CIRCLE SKIRTS

CROP + TOP LENGTH SHIRTS

HIGH / LOW** NECKLINE / PETER PAN COLLAR

**Low Neckline option for adult pattern only.

OPTIONAL POCKETS

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Rainbow Dress patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, August 20, 2021.

RAINBOW DRESS | RAINBOW DRES S – YOUTH | RAINBOW DRESS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Rainbow Dress Album | Rainbow Dress – Youth Album

Protected: Fabric for Pirates :: August 2021 Reveal

August 7, 2021

P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height

July 21, 2021

P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height

Today’s P4P University is all about adjusting a top pattern for height. We will take a look about the best practices for adjusting a pattern’s length, and how to create the best fit for your height.

Patterns for Pirates patterns are drafted for average height. That means in women’s patterns, they’re drafted for someone with the height of 5’5″. In this post, we will show you how to subtract or add length to a women’s top pattern to create the perfect fit.

DECIDING HOW MUCH TO ADD OR SUBTRACT TO A TOP PATTERN

When adjusting for height in a top pattern, it can feel a little daunting deciding how much to adjust by. But really, it’s just a little simple math. As a general rule of thumb, in women’s top patterns, you will want to add or subtract .5 inch for every inch you are off of the base of 5’5″. In our example today, we are making a Favorite Tee for someone measuring at a size XS, and is 5’1″. To determine how much length to subtract from the pattern, we simply find the difference between 5’5″ and 5’1″. That difference is 4 inches total. Now, keeping in mind our rule of thumb that for every inch difference in the wearer’s height from 5’5″, we take away .5 inches from the pattern, we will multiply 4 times .5 to get a total of 2 inches subtracted total.

Here it is written out:

5″5″-5’1″= 4″

4″ x .5 = 2″ subtracted from the pattern’s length

Conversely, if you are above the average 5’5″ the pattern is drafted for, you will find out how much to add to the pattern’s length by finding the difference in height, multiplying by .5 and ADDING it to the pattern’s length. It’s as simple as that!

WHERE TO SUBTRACT FROM/ ADD TO THE PATTERN

A common misconception is that one can simply add or subtract length to the bottom of a top to account for a difference in height. This is not usually the best course of action, as it can very often change the overall shape and intended fit of the garment. The most important thing to do is to spread the changes you make throughout the length of the bodice. This can be done to suit your preferences, but four good places to start are at armscye, just under the bust line, just under the waistline, and just above the bottom hemline.

Adding throughout the pattern like this helps to ensure that the bust, waist, and hip of the garment stay where they actually are on the wearer’s body. Patterns for Pirates uses a standard side waist length of 8″ and a waist to hip length of 8.25″, so if you know your specific length measurements between those points, you will want to add/remove the exact amount in those areas. For our purposes today, we are equally spreading our change in length throughout the pattern.

Take both your front and bodice pattern pieces, and mark with a line where you will be adding or subtracting length, such as we have, pictured below:

The next step is to cut the pattern pieces along those lines, so that these pieces can either be shortened or lengthened, depending on your fitting needs.

ADJUSTING THE TOP PATTERN PIECES TO EITHER LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN

In our example today, we will be subtracting length across the cuts in our pattern pieces to create the perfect fit for our wearer. Because we will taking away length in FOUR places (armscye, under the bustline, under the waistline, and just above the hemline) we will be dividing our total amount to be taken from the pattern’s length by 4.

2″ total needed to be taken from the pattern’s length

2″ divided by 4 = .5″

Therefore, we will be subtracting .5″ from the four different places in the pattern mentioned above. To do this, we will reposition our pattern pieces to overlap by .5″ each, and tape in place. Remember: you will want to do this to both the front and back bodice pieces of your top pattern.

If you are adding length to a pattern, you will want to spread your pattern pieces by the required measurement to create more length. When you are done re-taping, you will have two new bodice pieces adjusted for your height!

SEW UP YOUR TOP AS USUAL

Now that we’ve adjusted the front and back bodice pieces of our top, we can go ahead and sew as usual. Using your newly adjusted pattern pieces, cut your fabric and sew away.

And it’s as simple as that! Keep in mind that every body is different, and it may take a little practice to get the perfect fit when adjusting for height in a top. But with these simple beginning steps and general rules of thumb, we hope that you can adjust your patterns easily to create that perfect fit every time!

Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: New Pattern Release!

July 8, 2021

Guess what day it is?? It’s pattern release day!!! And we’ve got a doozy of a pattern to tell you all about. It checks off SO MANY requests that we’ve had come in over the last few years.

Let’s talk all about the new Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns, in both youth and adult sizes!!

You will have so much fun sewing up these simple bottoms with the adorable paperbag ruffle top! They’re on trend and comfortable with an elastic waistband. They’re perfect for woven fabrics with no stretch, stretch wovens or even a stable knit. The ruffle along the top of the waistband is adorable and fun to wear year round paired with a tank or a cardigan. You can pink the perfect length shorts from 3″ or 5″ inseams. The above ankle capri pant is an adorable more fitted pant you can easily dress up or down with different tops and shoes. You can go short with a mini skirt or longer with a knee length.

Pair any of these options with adorable patch pockets big enough to fit your giant cell phone in comfortably! You can go all out and add belt loops and a tie belt to tie everything together as well!

The options include: Options include: 3″ or 5″ inseam shorts for adult/ shorts, 26″ capri pants, mini for adult/mid thigh skirt, knee skirt, patch pockets, belt loops and tie belt.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

SKIRT LENGTHS (MINI + KNEE)

SHORTS (3″ INSEAM / 5″ INSEAM ADULT)

ABOVE ANKLE PANT LENGTH

PATCH POCKETS

BELT LOOPS + BELT

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 19, 2021.

PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – YOUTH | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Paperbag Pants + Skirt Album | Paperbag Pants + Skirt – Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Paperbag Pants + Skirt Easy Hacks post.

Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: Easy Hacks

July 6, 2021

…..

Drawstring

No elastic on hand, no problem you can still sew up your Paperbag pants, shorts or skirts and just add a drawstring instead! Lets get started!

All pieces will be the same with the exception of the belt, if you are wanting to make your own drawstring you will cut 2 belt pieces instead of 4 as we are not going to use the lining pieces. You can also used premade drawstring if you don’t want to make your own, you will just need to cut it the length of two belt pieces.

You are going to sew up your pants or skirt exactly as shown in the pattern until you get to your waist band. Take your front waistband piece, iron it lengthwise in half and mark the center front and both your seam allowances and casing. You will also want to mark two buttonholes on either side of your center front. I placed mine about 3/4 of a inch from the center front on both sides, centering them in the middle of the casing section. (the middle section) I would also recommend adding interfacing to the back of your fabric where you are planning on sewing your buttonholes to add some stability.

Next you will sew your buttonholes on your sewing machine, make sure you are only sewing them through the one layer of fabric on the front waistband where you have marked. Now you can finish your waistband as indicated in the pattern and attach it to your pants or skirt. Tip: instead of buttonholes you could add grommets for a different look.

If you are using premade drawstring you will just thread your drawstring through your buttonhole into the casing. If you are wanting to make a matching drawstring you will sew your two belt pieces together along the short ends just like the instructions state for the belt, finish the seam or trim with pinking sheers. Next fold the belt in half, long edges together and sew down the long edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the seam but not through and turn your tube inside out to form your drawstring and press well. I just use a safety pin to turn my drawstring inside out but you can use whatever method you find easiest. If you would like you can topstitch the drawstring as well. You can also finish the ends or just knot the ends as I have done here. Insert your drawstring into your casing and you are done!

Angela

…..

Half ties

If you like the idea of a belt but are a bit short on fabric, or like me, constantly lose separate belts, then this hack will show you how to make a half-belt, sewn into the side seams of the new Paperbag Pants.

First of all you will cut out your pattern pieces as usual, except for the belt pieces. For the belt you will simply cut out 3 belt pieces, instead of 4; and only 2 belt loops, instead of 3.

Construct your trousers/shorts as per the tutorial until you come to the waistband and belt pieces. Then take your 3 belt pieces and sew the short sides together until you have one long piece. Fold it in half and cut to make 2 pieces, then take each of those 2 pieces and cut them in half until you have 4 pieces of even length.

: Short sides sewn together

: Cut into 4 even pieces

You will have two pieces without a seam and 2 pieces that have a seam in the middle. Take one piece without a seam and one piece with a seam and sew them right sides together, starting from the short edge nearest the seam, up one long edge, across the top and back down the other long edge, leaving the bottom short edge open. Clip the corners and turn through. Press and top stitch.

: two pieces, RST x2

: sew and clip corners

: turn, press, topstitch

Next, take your waistband pieces and lay the back piece out facing up, then measure ½” from the bottom edge and lay one of your waist ties on it, with the side that has the seam facing up. Lay the front waistband piece, facing down, on top of it. Pin/clip and sew down the short side of the waistband, sandwiching the waist tie in the centre. Repeat for the other side.

: waist tie 1/2″ above bottom edge

: front waistband RST on top

Fold the waistband wrong sides together and press. Sew your channel for the elastic, as instructed in the tutorial, being careful to move your waist ties out of the way as you come to the side seams so that you don’t catch them in the stitching.

Sew the waistband on as normal, the only difference is that you will only be using the front belt loops (2 in total), thread in your elastic, and you can finish off by tying your waist ties in a bow!

Enjoy your new garment and never have to worry about losing those waist ties again.

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

Protected: Fabric for Pirates :: July 2021 Reveal

July 1, 2021

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 7

June 30, 2021

What a splashing fabulous week! Thank you so much for joining me in the Sunflower Swim Top sew along. We loved seeing you get ready for a P4P summer. It is time to announce the two winners, so without further ado….

Congratulations Melissa Powell! As our first winner, Melissa will receive a $20 Patterns for Pirates gift card and a $50 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one. I can’t wait to see those smiling faces sporting some OSP/P4P creations!