So.  You’ve printed your pattern, figured out your size, and now cut your fabric.  What’s next?

Let’s get to sewing!  Today is about the top half of your pattern.  We are going to stitch your bodice together.  And we’ve got a trick to get a lower neckline (if that’s what you’re wanting in your pattern) as well as a sleeveless option for the Me Hearties pattern.  Let’s get to it!

There are a ton of options for the bodice part of the Sweetheart/Me Hearties dresses.  You can colorblock, do an overlay, choose your sleeve lengths, use FOE (fold over elastic)/trim/t-shirt neckband bindings, etc.  Pick your poison when it comes to how you want to style your dress.  The sky is the limit!

But let’s say that you wanted a lower neckline than what the pattern calls for.  Can we do it?  YES WE CAN!

I have a larger than average bust and tend to like a lower neckline on my shirts.  Luckily, when you sew for yourself, this is super simple to do.  Cut your front bodice piece out and determine where you’d like the neckline to sit.

**Keep in consideration your neckline finishing.  For this particular top, I used a standard tshirt binding for the neck.  But using FOE or trim will give you a wider neckline opening.  So just make your adjustments according to your final vision for your top/dress.

Because we are adjusting the actual size of the opening, we will need to figure out new measurements for the neckband.  Once your front and back bodices are pieces are sewn together at the shoulder, fold your piece out flat at the neckline.  Without stretching your fabric, lay it flat and measure the opening.  Multiply that number by 2.  This is your new neckline circumference.

But what is your new neckband/FOE length requirements?
Neckline circumference X .85 + 1″ (for seam allowance) = Neckband/FOE length

Use your new length and finish the neckline however you’d like!

~SLEEVELESS AND OPTIONAL NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE FINISHING METHODS~

The girls Me Hearties does not have a tank option in the pattern but we are going to show you how to hack it… two ways!  You can also apply these methods to the Sweetheart if you want a wider sleeveless option as well.

For both methods, you will calculate the bands the same.  For consistency and as shown in the pattern, I did the bands in the flat.   You can do it in the round if you prefer but will need to adjust your band measurements to include a seam allowance (like the neckband measurement shown above).  If using the Trim Method, trim your pattern pieces first, then calculate your armbands.

How to calculate armband measurements: Sew one shoulder seam with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Measure the armscye (as shown below) and multiply by .85.

TRIM METHOD:  For this method, you will use your existing pattern pieces for the bodice (either the full front and back bodice or the top front and back of the color-block) and trim 1/2″ off each armscye.  Proceed with the instructions in your pattern  and use your favorite method to finish the neckline and armholes. (FOE, traditional knit binding, or lingerie elastic)

HIDDEN SEAM TURNED FACING ARMBANDS:

(I also used the same method on my neckline.  Note: This will lower your neckline by 1/2″)

                                  

 

 

ay 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Welcome back!  So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit.  And today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics.  And we are also going to be sharing TWO new options for the skirt portion.  So before you cut, maybe you’ll want to consider these “hacks” as well!

Let’s get started!

The circle skirt is the trickiest part of the pattern to cut.  But once you realize how to fold your fabric for cutting, it is actually pretty easy!  The pattern includes a full circle skirt and has the option to cut with a pattern piece, or to save on some paper and just cut with a small guide and your own measurement.

I prefer to cut my own circle skirt length, by just using the cut out piece provided.  It gives me full control of the length I really want.  But it is purely preference in this case.  When you are using the cut out, make sure you’re measuring from the end of the circle you’d cut out…and not from the corner of your folded fabric.  Otherwise your length will be off by several inches.  (Ask me how I know this.)

We wanted to provide a couple of fun alternates for your circle skirts.  So before you cut into your fabric, consider these alternatives!

Alternate #1: Full Circle Skirt with Waistband.

You can take the skirt portion of the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns, skip the bodice, and add a waistband.  And it’s super easy to do!  We are providing you with measurements for a yoga-style waistband…no elastic required.

Alternate #2: High-Low Skirt

Getting a higher cut in the front, and lower dip in the back of a circle skirt is SO EASY.  It’s as simple as moving the waist cut-out to a different place on the skirt itself.  Three steps and you’ll have a fishtail-esque skirt!  (This would also work well with the skirt-only adjustment that we explained above. ^^^)

1.) Open up your skirt so you’re seeing a folded semi-circle.  Slide the very top layer until it’s the length that you want for the front of your skirt (be sure to take into account the waist cutout!).  Sturdier fabrics are way easier to handle with this process.  My skirt above was a slinky rayon blend and it took a lot of patience to get into place.  So go slow.  Make sure everything is flat and even before you make your cut!

2.) Carefully, fold your skirt in half again, so that it is quartered.  You will be back to four layers of fabric, just like when you were originally cutting the circle.  Take your waist cut-out piece and cut your opening.

3.) Open up your skirt.  You should now see a large circle with a smaller waist circle cut out, somewhere off center.  Your high-low skirt is now ready to attach to the bodice!

Is your fabric all prepped, cut and ready for tomorrow’s next step?
Show us your pretty stack of fabrics, just begging to be sewn into something amazing!  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We are having a blast sewing with you this week!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Welcome back to the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long.  Let’s get Day #2 started!

Today is all about printing and assembling your pattern.  And measuring yourself correctly, so we make sure to get the best fit.

Patterns for Pirates patterns have lots of little extras for you.  First, the newest files are set up with a “layers” feature.  You can read all about how to access the layers HERE.

And on top of that, they are “no-trim” pages.  And that’s exactly what it sounds like!  The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly.  It makes this step of the process even quicker.  Need help assembling the no-trim pages?  No problem!  Judy created this fabulous video for us.  Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling.  We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern.  Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit.  Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Now let’s talk measuring yourself!

Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself.  You can see the full post HERE.  However, since the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns have a full circle skirt, which makes it very forgiving in the hips, the most important fit aspect of this pattern is the bodice.

Full Bust: Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust.  You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

Over Bust: This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

Under Bust: This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

Waist: This is your natural waistline.  Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants).  It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section.  If you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section.  Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on  your smallest part.

This is your natural waist

Side Waist Length: Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist.  This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist. (Ahem, Sweetheart Dress!) Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit.  If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage. 😉

Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm.  Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

The Sweetheart dress was designed for the average “side waist length” of 8 inches.  If you measure more or less than that, it’s incredibly important to adjust your pattern to fit your body properly.

We recommend to adjust differently, based upon your bust size.  If you have a smaller/larger bust than the pattern is drafted for, make your height adjustments at the bust line.  If your bust measurements are the same, add or remove the length below your bust line.

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it?  To get the perfect fit?  Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Let’s say your measurements fall in a “medium” bust and a “large” waist.  Cut the pattern out, by grading between the two sizes.  Before cutting, simply draw a line on your paper pattern, blending the sizes at a midpoint. You want your line as smooth as possible between to the two sizes.

 

WHEW!  Did you soak in all of that information?
Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow.  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!