Patterns for Pirates grades to a true curvy, hourglass, 5’5″ frame. Often times, one’s measurements may not fit within one size for bust, waist, and hip and in order to keep the intended fit of the garment, grading sizes is needed. Is it always necessary to grade sizes? No, but depending on the fit and ease of the item, it may be worth taking the extra step to custom fit it to your measurements. Unsure if you want to grade? Check out the Shirt Fits Explained post and our post about Ease as they may help you decide if you are comfortable with a different fit. For some of the looser cut tops like the Everyday Elegance and Relaxed Raglan, grading up a size for the waist is likely, not necessary as they are straight cuts from the bust down. But a top like the Layer Me Up, that is very fitted to the body would fit the best if graded to your measurements/size. Be sure to measure yourself prior to sewing! Our measurements tend to fluctuate without us really noticing, so I try to measure myself every couple of weeks to be sure I am still sewing the same size my measurements put me. Not sure where to measure? Read this: How to Measure Yourself. Below is the size chart for reference.
Now that you have determined your size and if you’d like to grade, how do you do it? Below are a few examples of grading for a larger waist and hip size. Any adjustments should be made to both the FRONT and BACK pieces. Do not be discouraged if your measurements put you within different or larger sizes than ready-to-wear store-bought clothes as pattern sizing does not translate the same. Our bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and we are all uniquely beautiful. The beauty of sewing for oneself is the ability to create an item custom fit to you.
Still need help or have more questions about P4P patterns? Join us over in the P4P Facebook Group and get to sharing!
Darlene Schlamp says
I have a question regarding grading of a pattern.I am going to grade the Free Spirit Tank pattern from waist to hips.I see in your diagrams you only show the front of a pattern piece.Does this mean you only do the grading on the front pattern piece ? Darlene
patternsforpirates says
No, you would repeat on the back bodice piece as well.
Marjory Stephenson says
I bought the Cocoon Pattern and cut it out , sine then I have lost weight is there any way I can reprint the patter again?
Thanks
sewinjo@gnmail.com
patternsforpirates says
Of course… just log into the site and go to your downloads and you can redownload it and print the new size you’re needing 🙂
Bianca Doren says
G’day Pirate-Tribe,
I am super bloomin’ late to this amazing wiggle-convention! Thank you so much for this pattern.
I am looking forward to creating a floor length, off shoulder number! (Am going to work in some amazing fishtail/train action when I get to it too!)
I would love if there’s some guidance on extreme curves grading?
I’m a 43″ bust, 34″ waist & 52″ hip. I have no idea how on earth to grade that!
XXL bust
XL waist
PLUS 2XL hip
Damn my booty! *chuckles*
Thank you in advance,
B @agirlcalledb
patternsforpirates says
Hi- here is our grading blog post– if you need more guidance an email to help@patternsforpirates.com would be easiest! http://www.patternsforpirates.com/p4p-university-grading
Sally Deprez says
I just measured myself and come down to bust 37 (M), underbust 33 (XL) What do I draw? M-L or XL? For the upper part
I am 41,7 hip (L)
Waist 31,88 (XL)
patternsforpirates says
Hi- I answered through email, since that seemed much easier to read through 🙂