Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Hepburn Top and Dress : : New Pattern Release!!

We’re so excited to share the newest patterns in the P4P collection… the Hepburn Top and Dress will take you from summer crop to winter turtleneck dress and everything in between! All the options will have you creating a huge variety of timeless wardrobe staples.

These patterns are a slim fit silhouette great for flattering your figure and also amazing for versatility because you can tuck them in or layer easily during colder weather.  The classic details will never go out of trend including the side seam split and turtleneck options.  The simplicity of the garment means it’s a quick and easy sew while the look is very polished!  By using different fabrics and options you can come out with an athletic looking crop or a holiday party dress! The possibilities are endless <3

Drafted for a high stretch knit fabric some of our favorites were rayon ribbed knits, rayon spandex blends, poly rayon spandex blends, double brushed poly, single brushed poly, cotton lycra, athlethic spandex knits (we even used swim for a rashguard top!), and of course sweater knits!

Options include: hemmed neckline, mock turtleneck, fold over turtleneck, tank, short sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, long sleeve hemmed, long sleeve with cuff (both regular and fold over style), crop, shirt, above knee dress, and below knee/ midi dress lengths.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HEMMED NECKLINE / MOCK TURTLENECK / FOLD OVER TURTLENECK

YOUTH— HEMMED NECKLINE / MOCK TURTLENECK / FOLD OVER TURTLENECK

CROP / SHIRT / ABOVE KNEE / MIDI LENGTH

 

YOUTH—CROP / SHIRT / ABOVE KNEE / MIDI LENGTH

TANK / SHORT SLEEVE / 3/4 SLEEVE / LONG SLEEVE (HEMMED, CUFF, FOLD OVER CUFF)

YOUTH— TANK / SHORT SLEEVE / 3/4 SLEEVE / LONG SLEEVE (HEMMED, CUFF, FOLD OVER CUFF)

SIDE SEAM SPLIT DETAIL

YOUTH— SIDE SEAM SPLIT DETAIL

 

What about a little fabric choice inspiration??  One of the most common questions when we release a new pattern is what we suggest as the best fabrics. So, here are some of our favorites during testing:

ATHLETIC KNIT AND COTTON SPANDEX

FRENCH TERRY AND JERSEY

 

RIBBED KNITS

DOUBLE BRUSHED POLY

SWEATER KNITS / WAFFLE KNITS

 

VELVET AND LACE

I can’t wait to see what varieties everyone makes!  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

HEPBURN | HEPBURN – YOUTH | HEPBURN BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!

Hepburn Album | Hepburn -Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Monday, August 19, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

 

 

Hepburn Top and Dress – Easy Hacks

The Hepburn Top & Dress has released and it will surely become a staple in your year round wardrobe. Our amazing (and growing) team of blog contributors has some easy hacks for the new pattern. Take a look and get sewing!

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Swim top/rashguard

The fit of the Turtle Neck Dress is so fantastic that modifying it to be a a rashguard is very simple!

The first thing you need to do is decide which pattern options you would like to use and gather your supplies. Swap out your sweater knit for some swim knit, and your clear elastic for swim elastic.

Cut out your pattern pieces and neckline elastic according to the tutorial. For all options, you will continue on following the tutorial until it is time to hem.

If you choose to make a cropped swim top, like I am, you may want additional swim elastic for the bottom hem. This will help keep the hem from rising up while swimming. For this option, you will want to trim half an inch from the bottom of the front and back bodice pieces.

 

I simply wrapped the elastic around my waist and cut at a comfortable length. The elastic will be attached in the same way you attach the neckline elastic for the crew neck.

All other hemming options can follow the tutorial. Now you can enjoy your new swim top!


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Zipper Workout Bra

For this hack, we will be working with the crew neck, crop, tank option. In addition to the materials listed in the pattern, you will also need: 

  • Fabric for the lining
  • Zipper that is slightly longer than the shortened crop bodice (detailed below)
  • Wash away wonder-tape (our new BFF!)
  • FOE/knit binding
  • 1” elastic
  • Soft bra cups
  • (Optional Hook & Eye Closure)

1. Assemble Bodice and Lining

2. Attach Zipper with Wonder Tape!

Find the center of the front neckline, cut straight down from top to bottom.

Place a strip of wonder tape from top to bottom along the edge of one half of the bodice. Do the same for the coordinating lining piece, peel off the paper strip.

With right sides together, place zipper along the edge of bodice.

Next, peel off paper strip on lining and place wrong side of zipper along right side of lining.

Check to be sure zipper is placed correctly, gently finger press in place. (Clip in place if needed).

Stitch 1/4’’ away from the zipper from top to bottom.

Repeat with other side. Your fully lined zipper is now attached with just two lines of stitching!! Zip up zipper, add reinforcement stitches across the bottom of the zipper, and trim the extra zipper fabric from off the top and bottom.

Finish neckline with your favorite finish. I used FOE, but you could also do a knit binding. Just be sure to fold the ends under so the edges are finished.

3. Add Bottom Band

Cut a band with the following formula (adjust length as needed): Length = 3.5” by Width = (75% of Underbust Measurement) + 1”

*Optional* Hand sew hook and eye closure at top of zipper.

And you are done!!!

   

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Picot trim

Anyone else buy tons of picot elastic thinking you are going to make all the bras and underwear? Well picot elastic can easily be used for other items and is a great finish for a necklines as well!  This is a quick easy hack and all you need that is different from the original requirements is picot elastic!

We are only going to make very minimal changes.  My picot elastic was 1/4 inch so I did not bother trimming the neckline down at all.  We are going to cut the picot the same length as what the pattern calls for for the clear elastic.

 

Now press that top stitch cause pressing is the key to a really great finished product and finish the rest of your top as instructed.  You can also use this method for the armholes if you choose but sometimes picot can be scratchy, mine was super soft but I choose to just use it for the neckline.

 

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Lettuce hem

Next up we have the lettuce hem hack. This is an easy and fast way to finish your edges with a little added style!

First off, we need to trim the hem allowances at the neckline, sleeve edges, and bottoms of both front and back pieces of the pattern to account for not using a traditional hem on these edges.

Trim 3/8″ off of the neckline.

Trim 1/2″ from the sleeve edges.

And trim 1″ from the bottoms of both the front and back bodice pieces.

Now that we’ve got our pattern pieces properly modified, cut and sew up your top as usual, using the new trimmed pattern pieces.

Next, set up your serger for a rolled hemline. Consult your serger’s manual for exactly how to do this on your machine, but in a nutshell, you will use only one needle, narrow the stitch width, decrease the length and increase the lower looper tension.

Begin with the neckline of the shirt. Sew the neckline as if you were finishing with a rolled hem, but stretch the fabric firmly before and after the presser foot. The tighter you pull, the more waves your lettuce hem will have!

Repeat on the raw edges of both sleeves and bottom hemline.

And that’s it! Now you have a beautifully finished tee with cute lettuce hems.

 

 

Caitlin

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Higher side vents

 

Let give this dress a nice higher vent to add extra sexy to it!

 Here’s how I made this little hack.

I started with cutting the mid-length version and marking the vent line for the knee length.

I continue sewing up the dress according to the instructions. 

Here is a picture to show the different vent lines. I followed the directions for the vent except I used the knee length instead of the mid length marking. 

Hope you all love this hack!!

Andrea

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Skirt

Next up we have a super easy, fun skirt hack. Nicole paired her skirt with the Sporty Piko crop but you can certainly wear it withe the cropped Hepburn top. Start by deciding where you would like the skirt to hit. Nicole is wearing a high waist style so she cut the pattern 1″ front and back pieces above the waist line. Now grab a 1″ knit elastic piece and stretch it around your waist (or high hip, depending on your skirt preference). Cut the elastic based on your waist and comfort. Sew the side seams and hem the bottom of the skirt following the tutorial instruction.

Using your serger or a zig zag stitch attach the elastic to the waist.

That’s it! All you have left to do now is enjoy your new skirt.

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Hepburn / Boundless mash

My turn!! You know there’s nothing I like more than a good dress! So once I have sewn the dress included in the pattern I just had to try mashing it with the Boundless skirt. Here is what I did:

Cut the preferred Hepburn style (tank, sleeves, etc) CROP top. Now grab the Boundless pattern (or even the Sunshine) and cut the waist skirt (not the empire one).

Sew the Hepburn crop top as instructed in the tutorial. Now grab some 1/4″ elastic and measure the opening of the bottom hem. Cut the elastic the same size as the measurement you just took and sew it in a loop.

All you have to do now is attach the skirt to the Hepburn top following the Boundless (or Sunshine) tutorial. Boom! One top…so many new possibilities!

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Hepburn / Sweetheart or Me Hearties mash

 

We could not end this hacks series without showing you how beautiful a Hepburn / Me Hearties (or Sweetheart) mash can be. Here is what how to get the look.

Judy has made he little star a 3/4″ sleeves, turtleneck crop top Hepburn and omitted hemming the bottom. Of course, you can choose any of the crop top styles included in the Hepburn pattern. Then she simply cut a Me Hearties circle skirt, sewed the side seams and hemmed the bottom.

All that left to do it attach the skirt to the top, following the Me Hearties instructions. Don’t forget the seam allowance is 1/2″.

Now tell me this cutie is not making you want to sew a Hepburn/Sweetheart mash for you too. I know that’s my next project!

Hope you enjoyed these easy hack as much as we enjoyed making them for you! Time to get sewing and remember to post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we can all admire them.

Just Write Skirt :: FREE Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

Unbelievably so, it’s time to start thinking about Back-to-School season.  Which means that stores are filled to the brim with tempting school supplies.  Is anyone else a pen / notebook / planner nerd like me?  I could spend hours in those aisles.  Life just got a little better for me because now I can really let people know about my undying love for school supplies by wearing it on my sleeve….er skirt!!  Pirate friends, meet the Just Write Skirt!

Before we get started, here are some things you’ll need:

  • Just Write Skirt free Pattern Pieces (found in the store HERE)
  • 1″ Waistband Elastic.  See cut chart for length needed.
  • YouTube Video Tutorial for assembling a pencil panel set (also found at the bottom of this tutorial)
Fabric Requirements (in Yards, rounded to nearest 1/8)
Sizes 2-7 8-12 14 XXS-P1X P2X-P3X
Lining 1/2 5/8 1-1/4 1-1/3 1-1/3
Pencil (yellow) 1/4 1/3 3/4 7/8 7/8
Accent Panel (black) 1/2 5/8 5/8 2/3 2/3
Point Accent (black) 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/3
Lead (grey) 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/4
Ferrule (grey) 1/8 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4
Eraser (pink) 1/4 1/4 1/3 1/3 1/3
Pencil Wood (off-white) 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4

**While the skirt is meant to sit at your natural waist, you will want to choose your size based upon your hip measurement.  Wanting a fuller skirt?  The more pencil panel sets you add, the fuller your skirt becomes.  Just keep in mind that each panel finishes at 5″, and you will need to adjust your lining fabric to account for any extra panels in your awesome skirt!

Sewing for a child who is a blend of sizes?  No sweat!  Just sew up the number of panel sets that is required for their waist/hip measurement, and use the pattern pieces for their height.

And now, onto the tutorial!

Step 1: For each pencil panel, you will need:
– 1 Ferrule piece (grey)
– 1 Eraser piece (pink)
– 1 Pencil body (yellow)
– 1 Pencil wood (off white)
– 1 Pencil lead (grey)
– 2 mirrored Point accents (black)
– 1 Accent panel (black)

Step 2: Lay your “pencil wood” piece, right side up.

Step 3: Lay your “pencil lead” piece on top of your wood piece with right sides together, matching the notches. Sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 4: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 5: Lay out your new pencil point, with one of “point accents” next to it.

Step 6: With right sides together, align the “point accent” along the long angled edge. Sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

**Note, there will be around 1/2″ of overhang on the top and bottom of the “point accent” piece.

Step 7: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 8: Repeat with the other “point accent”.

Step 9: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 10: Trim off the excess fabric.

Step 11: Lay the piece right side up, and place the “pencil body” right sides together. Align the short edges.

Step 12: Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 13: Open up pieces and press.

Step 14: Align the “ferrule” piece along the top, shorter edge, right sides together, and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance. Open up the pieces and press.

Step 15: Align the “eraser” piece along the top, shorter edge, right sides together, and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 16: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 17: Align the “accent panel” along the long edge of both pieces, right sides together. Sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 18: Open up pieces and press.

Repeat according to the number of “sets of panels” required for the size skirt being sewn.

Step 19: Begin to join the panels to form a skirt.

Step 20: With right sides together, align each panel along the long edge and sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 21: Continue until all of the panels are sewn together.

Step 22: Fold your set in half, right sides together, and sew to create a tube.

Step 23: You should now have a circle of pencils.

Step 24: Align your lining fabric with right sides together.

Step 25: Sew along both sides, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 26: Turn your main skirt right sides facing outwards, and keep your lining fabric with the right sides facing in.

Step 27: Slide your main skirt inside of the lining, with the right sides together.

Step 28: Sew along the bottom edge opening, careful to sew only one layer of lining to one layer of the main skirt.

Step 29: Open up the pieces, so they are right sides out.

Step 30: Slide the lining inside of the main skirt, wrong sides together, completely enclosing all of your seams.

If desired, edge stitch along the bottom of the skirt.

Step 31: Treating your main and lining fabrics as one, press 1/2″ along the entire top, raw edge, toward the lining side.

**Quick tip: You might find it easier to manage the double layers if you serge / zig-zag stitch around the top raw edge before folding and pressing.

Step 32: Press an additional 1-1/2″, creating a casing.

Step 33: Pin and sew along the entire skirt, edge stitching close to the fold in the casing. Leave a 2-3″ opening for elastic.

Step 34: Using a pin or bodkin, thread your elastic through the opening you left in the casing.

Be careful not to twist your elastic.

Step 35: Pull the elastic out the other side of your casing, overlap at 1″ and secure the ends together.

Step 36: Pin and stitch closed the opening in your casing.

Step 37: Press and admire your new “Just Write” skirt!
Are more of a “learn by watching” type?  If so, here’s a video to walk you through the steps of creating the pencil panels:

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off super awesome Just Write things that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

In case you were looking for a little inspiration on your own Just Write Skirt, check out our tester album and take a look at all of the gorgeous items our creative friends have made!

Happy Back-to-School season, Pirate Friends!

Summer PJs :: New Pattern Release!!

Guess what Pirate Crew?!  We’ve got new patterns releasing today and we are super excited to tell you about them!  It might be hotter than Hades outside, but this new pattern will help keep you cool.  Why not fight those high temps with some cute new Summer PJs and Summer PJs – Youth?

These patterns are simply perfect for warmer weather pajamas!  They’re quick and simple to sew up and work best with lightweight woven fabrics that are breathable for hot nights.

Drafted for non-stretch woven fabrics- favorites are voile, cotton lawn, silky, and rayon blends. You can use pre-made bias tape or create your own to finish off the top. The bottoms use a thin elastic for waistband. The adjustable straps are great for gifting and not having to slip on and fit before finishing your top!  Options for the adult pattern (available in sizes XXS – Plus 3X) includes a crop, top, and nightie length tops.  And the bottoms come with high rise and low rise. The bottoms also include cheekies, shorties, and capri lengths.

For the youth version (sizes 3M – 14) the options include crop, top, and nightgown lengths.  And the bottoms include short or capri length.  The loose fit is super comfortable and you’ll get a whole seasons worth of wear with the growing room.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

SHORTS / CHEEKIES / CAPRI LENGTH BOTTOMS (ADULT VERSION)

SHORTS / CAPRI LENGTH BOTTOMS (YOUTH VERSION)

CROP / TOP / NIGHTIE LENGTH TOPS

ADJUSTABLE STRAPS

Are you ready to get in on the Summer PJ fun?  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

SUMMER PJs | SUMMER PJs – YOUTH | SUMMER PJs BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!

Summer PJs Album | Youth Summer PJs Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Saturday, July 27, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Summer PJs easy hack

As with all new P4P patterns our blog team has some easy hacks ready for you to take your Summer Pjs up a notch. It is a sizzling summer after all…

Knit and FOE

Let’s start with a simple fabric switch. If you are anything like me you have piles and piles of knit fabric in your stash. Let’s make the Summer Pjs with jersey knit. The other replacement we are making is switching the bias tape for FOE (fold over elastic).

I used 5/8″ FOE for mine but any width bigger would work too. One of my favorite parts of making the Summer PJs with knit is that I can coverstitch the hem.

Sew the PJs as instructed in the tutorial. When adding FOE simply fold it in half and sew it on with a lightning bolt stitch or triple stretch stitch. You can get away with using a straight stitch since the pattern has plenty of positive ease so you won’t really be stretching the binding.

I left the FOE as is for the back strap but you can certainly fold that one over as well.

Use lots of pins when adding the long back strap. It will help if you steam press the FOE fold prior to pinning or clipping it in place.

That’s it! No changes made to the actual pattern pieces just fabric choice…easy peasy!

Lace Insert

If you are looking to make your Summer Pjs just a little more sexy…why not add a lace insert to the front of the top or nightie? Grab your favorite lace or very wide lace trim and let’s get started. Cut the fabric as instructed in the pattern. Using a disappearing pen, like a Frixion , mark on the front piece the “V” you would like to be lace. This is where you choose how “risque” you would like to make your pajamas. Mark another line 1/4″ inside of the first one. This will be your cutting line for the main fabric. Cute along the green line and remove the inside triangle.

Cut down your lace a 1/4″ bigger than the size of the bigger triangle. If you use gallon lace or trim make sure the pretty details (like Judy’s black accent) is at the top. Mark 1/4″ inside the V lace triangle with the disappearing pen or tailor chalk. This will be the stitching line.

Place your lace triangle over the front piece right sides together matching the stitching lines (red). Sew over the marked lines with a straight stitch, pivoting at the center V. Flip the lace piece inside the main fabric and finish the raw edges with a zig zag stitch. Top stitch 1/8″ away from the edge.

If your lace has a raw edge at the top, follow the pattern to add bias binding. If your using lace with a finished edge like Judy’s then simply skip the front bias tape.

All you have left to do now is enjoy your new sexy summer pajamas.

 

Ruffles

Ruffles can add such a soft, feminine detail and to me, the new Summer PJ’s has so many great places to add a ruffle. One of the first places is the legs. You can add ruffles to either the cheekie or shorts length. For this tutorial, I added ruffles to the shorts length.

To begin, you will want to assemble your shorts as directed by the tutorial, with the exception of hemming.

Once you’ve constructed your shorts, you will need cut your bands that will be used for the ruffles. The band needs to be 3″ x width of fabric. If you would like your ruffle more full, you can always sew two strips together to create a fuller look.

Once the strips are cut, you will want to press them in half, with wrong sides together.  Unfold your strips. With right sides together, stitch the ends together, using a 1/2″ seam allowance to create a loop.

Re-fold your band. Using the longest straight stitch on your machine, create your gathering stitches. You will want to use two rows of stitches, one at a 1/4″ from the raw edge and a second 5/8″. Repeat on other band.

Mark the middle of your band with a pin or clip. Pulling the bobbin thread, begin to gather your band. You will then want to match up the seam of the band with the crotch seam and the middle with the outside leg seam.

Evenly distribute your gathers and attach using a 1/2″ seam allowance. To finish, press the seam up and top stitch around the legs if wished!

Another quick and easy way to add ruffles to the Summer PJ’s is to add one to the neckline. I chose to add this to my daughter’s nightgown and we are both in love with the results. Many of the steps will be the same as above. After cutting out your top, stitch your side seams together. For the ruffle, you will want to cut a strip of fabric that is 3″ x double the width of the neckline. Press this strip of fabric in half, wrong sides together.

Using the longest straight stitch, create your gathering stitches by stitching a straight line at both 1/4″ and 5/8″ from the raw edge.

To gather, pull the bobbin thread until the strip is the same width as the neckline (** Leave 1/2″ ungathered on both ends to help reduce bulk when attaching the binding).  Baste around the armscyes and neckline to hold ruffle in place.

Continue to finish the top according to the tutorial, attaching the binding to the neckline as instructed, treating the ruffle and neckline as one.

Now that you have your youth and adult Summer PJs, and learned some easy hacks, time to get creative with your own pajamas. Don’t forget to share your pretties in the P4P Facebook group so we can all marvel at their beauty.

Alex and Erinn

Minute Maillot :: New Pattern Release!!

Happy Release Day, Pirates!!  We are excited to be sharing with you the latest patterns in our swim lineup: the Minute Maillot and Minute Maillot Youth!

This pattern is about to make a splash in your swimwear sewing, because it’s super easy AND a super flattering to sew.  The pattern features partially lined and fully lined options.  The women’s also includes a bust support piece with elastic which you can sew swim cups to.  They both include 3 back neckline options: high, mid, and low.  The women’s also includes 3 front neckline options: high, mid, and low as well as 2 leglines: high and low.  You can mix and match to your personal preference for modesty and flatter your personal bodytype…or sew one of each variation and have a huge stack!

Never heard the word “maillot” before?  Here’s a quick history lesson:  In the 1920’s the term maillot was first used to describe a tight fitting, one-piece swimsuit.  In present day, the word has almost entirely been replaced by the term “one-piece” or “tanksuit,” but is now known in the designer’s world for specific styles that include higher cut leglines, and often plunging necklines or revealing cutouts.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HIGH AND LOW LEGLINES (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH NECKLINE / MID NECKLINE / LOW NECKLINE (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH BACK / MID BACK / LOW BACK

RUFFLE SKIRT (YOUTH VERSION ONLY)

Are you ready to get in on the Minute Maillot fun?  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

MINUTE MAILLOT | YOUTH MINUTE MAILLOT |MINUTE MAILLOT BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!  Minute Maillot Album | Youth Minute Maillot Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday, May 17, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Minute Maillot – Easy Hacks

Don’t let the name of the pattern fool you! While The Minute Maillot is a super quick sew, it is full of options. But you know us- we like to add more easy hacks that you can customize to your preference.

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Separates

Although I love the Minute Maillot as a one piece, I tend to wear a lot of two pieces in the summer and this pattern is so quick and easy to hack into a two piece!  Let’s jump right in!

Step 1 – Grab your both your front and back lining pieces.  All we need to do is add a bit of length to these pieces.  Add 1 1/4 inch to the bottom of each piece and then draw your side seam line down on a curve to match as shown here. You will do this on both your front and back piece.  NOTE: This is going to work best on the high back, the mid back will work but its going to leave you with a very thin back band.

 

Step 2: Cut out your pieces you will need one main and one lining of each the front and the back.  You will sew in your cups if using them just as instructed in the pattern but DO NOT sew on the underbust elastic! Assemble the top just as instructed in the pattern.

Step 3: Your top is now assembled and we just have to finish the bottom. Cut your 3/4 inch under bust elastic as stated in the chart and butt the edges together and zig zag in the round exactly like shown in the tutorial. .  Instead of attaching it to the lining only we are going to attach it in the same way as we did the neckline and arm elastic.  First we will quarter our elastic and suite and match them together.  The elastic will be on the lining side of the suite.  Baste your elastic to your suite making sure that the edge of your elastic matches the edge of both the lining and the main fabric.  I choose to serge my elastic on, you will need to slightly stretch the elastic to match your suite.  After you have it sewn in place you will flip it up to the lining side and top stitch in place, again just like all your other elastic in the suite you want to top stitch right on the edge of that elastic as close as you possibly can, this helps prevent the elastic from flipping out on you.

All done! Quick and easy and super cute! This would also work great in athletic fabric for a sports bra! I paired mine with the Hello Sailors bottoms but you could easily hack to make your own bottoms from this pattern as well!  You just need to figure out where you would like the top of your bottoms to hit and add 3/8th to that.  You would add 3/8 inch elastic to the top on the lining side and then top stitch in place!  You can also apply this same hack to the girls suit, just decide how long you would like your top you can make it as long or as short as you would like, add 1/2 inch to where you decided you would like it to finish and add 3/8 inch elastic to finish the bottom.  No measurements are provided for this but I would do an inch less then the finished measurement so you can stretch that elastic just a little bit.

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Low back strap

My favorite back option of the Minute Maillot is for sure the low one! I also feel like it gives me the opportunity to get even more creative. Let me show you how quick and easy it is to add a strap to the back.

Start by making the swimsuit’s low back option, any front option or leg you prefer. We will add the strap once the suit in completed. Place a quilting ruler at the bottom arm opening and measure the opening of the back at that level. In my case (1x) it is 9 inches.

Cut your back strap 6″ wide by the back opening you measured earlier. In my case I used a swim piece that was 6″x9″. This is a step you can customize to your liking. If you’d like a thinner strap you can certainly cut the fabric shorter than 6″. Fold the strap right side together lengthwise, sew along the top with a 1/4 or 1/2″ seam allowance (depending on your preference). Turn the strap inside out.

Bring back your swimsuit, back side up, and mark the point on the opening that matches the bottom arm opening.

Pin your strap in place making sure that the top of the strap matches the mark you just made on both sides of the back opening.

Sew the strap in place using a zig zag stitch, stretch stitches or your coverstitch. That’s all!

Tips: Using the same technique you can make the back with two or three thinner straps, two long ones  tied in a bow, two thinner ones crossed like an X….endless possibilities!

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Ruffles at the legs

Looking for one of the fastest way to make most little girls happy- add ruffles! For this hack, you will first need to cut and assemble your pattern according to the tutorial, stopping at the step which attaches the crotch seam. Once assembled, you will want to measure the width that you would like your ruffles to be. I choose to measure from the side seam to approximately the leg curve, giving me a 3″ area to add the ruffle to the front, as well as another 3″ to the back.

You will now cut the rectangles needed for the ruffles.  You will need a total of 6 rectangles, 3 for each side. To determine the total length needed, I took my 6″ I measured above and multiplied by 1.5. If you’d like a more full ruffle, you could multiply this width by 2. For the height, I cut each ruffle to 2″. My final ruffle measurements were 9″x 2″. After you’ve cut your rectangles, you will want to sew your gather stitches (the longest straight stitch on your machine). I like to sew two rows of stitches to help create more even gathers.

Beginning with your bottom ruffle, match the center of the ruffle with the side seam, then pin in place 3″ from the side seam on both the front and back bodice pieces. Pull your gather strings and adjust as needed.

Attach the ruffle using a narrow zigzag stitch. You may now remove the basting stitches.

Repeat these steps with both the middle and top layer, placing it 1″ above the previous layer.

After attaching the ruffles, finish sewing the crotch seam as directed in the tutorial and then finish by adding the elastic! Lastly, show it to that little cutie and see her face light up when she sees the added flair to her suit!


~Erinn

 

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Maternity

 

Hi Lovelies,

Today we are going to discuss how to hack the new suit to be maternity friendly. You’re going to need the Maternity Layer Me Up add on pattern piece and your front piece of the swimsuit. Okay, let’s get started!
First, before cutting fabric we will need to modify the front pattern piece.  You’re going to take the front piece of the swimsuit and you’re going to measure one inch above the High Leg cut line. From there you will have two pieces to add your LMU in the middle.
You’re going to tape the top area of the LMU maternity add on where the red line is in the picture by the bust line curve.
Then, you’re going to tape the bottom piece of the swimsuit by the bottom notches on the LMU pattern piece. You will now blend the bottom of the belly area on the LMU to bottoms swimsuit piece.
Now, you’ll use your newly drafted maternity front piece to cut out the front of your swimsuit (and your swim lining if you’re fully lining the front of your swimsuit).
Next, you will be gathering the center belly section. Instead of using elastic to gather like in the LMU add on instructions I did the traditional two basting stitches and gathered by hand to match the back swimsuit pattern piece.  You will start gathering at the top notch under the bust and go until the very last notch on the belly.
From here on out you will continue with the Minute Maillot instructions as normal. Bam, you’re done with your beautiful new maternity swimsuit!

Amanda S

 

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How Low Can You Go Back

I love a dramatic low back! The low back option included is a bit lower then natural waistline.  I kept seeing gorgeous Pinterest photos of super low backs and had to try one!

I marked a line from the high cut legline horizontally across my back piece.  Then marked a vertical line just continuing the back low cutline vertically down until it met with the horizontal line I already marked.  Using a french curve I drew the curve (you can also cut out and use the curve from the low option if you don’t have a french curve handy).

I sewed up the suit exactly the same, just lengthening the back elastic to match the lower line. (I didn’t measure, I just applied it as I sewed only stretching where needed).

Ta-Da! A super dramatic low back that would be stunning on any beach or romantic get away… I’ll have to try to get invited to one of those one day to show mine off 😉

Judy

It’s a Cinch…Bag FREE Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

I have been having the hardest time containing myself over these bags!  I just love them so much and I hope you have the same feelings about them….because this is our newest FREE pattern and it’s launching RIGHT NOW!

Let’s make some It’s A Cinch….Bags!

Included in the pattern below are instructions on how to make a basic bag, or one of the animals like the fox, kitty cat, panda, or bunny!  There are also downloadable files for all of the animal faces (and the emoji face pictured), which you can use for htv, fabric paint or embroidery.  But wait, there’s more!  Included along with all of that are downloadable files for a soccer ball, volleyball, basketball and baseball!  I’ve got you covered all over the place!

Plus I totally spared you from having to install zippers this time.  (I know you were worried.)

**Stick around all the way to the bottom of this post for a full video tutorial of the assembly of these sweet cinch bags as well!

— It’s a Cinch…Bag PDF free pattern pieces, animal face files, and sports ball designs (found HERE)
— 1/2 yard main fabric
— 1/2 yard lining fabric
— 3 yards cording for straps, cut into 2 – 1.5 yard lengths.
— Optional: Small amounts of accent fabrics for ears, etc.
— Optional: Small amounts of fiberfill for the animal ears.
— Optional: Heat Transfer Vinyl / Embroidery Floss / Fabric Paint / Buttons / etc for Details

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, etc.

BASIC BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Using a strap channel piece, fold one of the short ends (wrong sides together) at 1/4″ and press.

Fold another 1/4″ to enclose raw edges and press again.

Repeat on the other short side of strap channel.  Repeat with other strap channel piece.

Step 2: Top stitch along both edges of strap channel pieces.

Step 3: With wrong sides together, fold the strap channel in half, meeting the long raw edges together.  Press.  Repeat with other strap channel piece.

Step 4: Fold channel pieces in half and place a pin to mark the center along the raw, unfolded edges.

Step 5: Grab one of the Main Bag pieces, in your main fabric and place it right side up.  Using your pattern pieces for alignment, place a pin or clip at the strap placement guides at the bottom, as well as the center top of the piece.

Step 6: Align one of the strap channel pieces along the top of the main bag piece, with the raw edges all matching, centered against each other.

Step 7: With one of the lining pieces face down, lay it on top, sandwiching the strap channel piece between the two body pieces.

Step 8: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch along the entire top, straight edge.

Step 9: Flip your fabrics so they are now right sides facing out, and the strap channel is sticking above the body pieces.  Press.  Repeat with other main, lining and strap channel pieces.

Step 10: With the main fabrics facing up, lay your bag pieces so that they are mirrored and the strap channels are closest to each other.

Take one of your straps and using a bodkin, safety pin, or other threading tool, feed your strap through the channels.

Feed into the bottom left channel, out the top, and back down through the top right channel.

Repeat with the opposite by feeding a strap through the top left channel, out the bottom, and back up the bottom right channel.

You will now have two raw ends of your straps on either side of your bag pieces.

Step 11: Adjust your bag to have the outer, front of the bag facing you.  And clip or pin your straps with the raw edges facing away from the bag, to where you previously marked with the strap placement guides.

Step 12: Flip open your bag, so that the lining pieces are right sides together, and the main fabric pieces are right sides together, and the straps are nestled neatly inside.

Align all edges and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance around the entire edge, leaving open only a 4-5″ space for turning.  Be careful not to sew your strap pieces into the seam on accident.

Step 13: Careful not to clip through your seams, trim your seam allowances down to help with a more precise curve.

Step 14: Turn your bag right sides out, through the opening you created in Step 12.

Step 15: Tuck your seam allowance back into the opening.  Pin or clip.  And using your favorite method, stitch it shut.

Step 16: Push your lining fabric into the main fabric side.

Step 17: Give your brand new bag a good press, pull the straps tight, gift it to your favorite person and make another!

BUNNY BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Place the ear fabrics right sides together.

Step 2: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch long outer edges together.

Step 3: Trim seam allowance, being careful not to clip through your stitches.

Step 4:  Turn and press, topstitch if desired.

Step 5: Fold along the top, raw edge, meeting the corners together.  Clip or baste top edge in place.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 6: If using yarn for the bunny tail:

Wind the yarn around and around (and around!) your fingers.  The more you wrap, the fuller the pompom’s poof will be.

Once you’ve reached that desired poof, carefully slide the yarn off your hand.  Take a piece of yarn and tie it directly in the center.  Make the knot is as tight as you can get it.  I often secure the knot, and then switch my strands to the other side, and create a second tight not…just for safe measure.  Take your scissors and cut through the loops on each side of the knot.

4.) Fluff your new yarn ball…cutting the ends to make them more even if necessary.

Step 7:  Align your ears with the outer ear measuring 3″ from the edges.  And your bunny tail centered between the bottom of the ears.

Step 8:  Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

FOX BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Lay the face pieces with right sides together.

Step 2: Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance, stopping at the marking guides on the pattern piece.

Step 3: Clip the center point and trim around top curves for a cleaner turning.

Step 4: Turn right sides out and press.

Step 5: Align with main fabric piece and topstitch the upper curves.

**Add your face details now.  Either the htv designs, paint, or embroidery.  It’s easiest to add everything at this step while all of the pieces are flat and unattached to other items of the bag!

Step 6: With right sides together, stitch ear pieces using 1/2″ seam allowance.  Trim seam.

Step 7: Using a small amount of polyfil (if desired), stuff the ear.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 8: Using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 9: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

KITTY CAT BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Fold the inner ear fabric in half, with right sides together.

Step 2: About 1/2″ from the fold, sew a 1-2″ vertical line.

Step 3: With right sides together, align the two side edges to the outer ear fabric.  Sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 4: Trim your seam allowance down, for cleaner turning.

Step 5: Turn ear right-side-out and press.  Baste along bottom edge of ear, to help for easier assembly.  The “pinch” we created should fold the outer ear fabric a little bit in the front, creating a little more of a cat ear effect. 🙂  Repeat other ear.

Step 6: Add any face details.  And then using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 7: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

PANDA BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Align two ear pieces, right sides together.  Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch around entire curved edge.

Step 2: Careful not to clip through your stitches, trim down the seam allowance.

Step 3: Turn right side out and press.

Step 4: Using a small amount of polyfil (if desired), stuff the ear.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 5: Add any face details.  And then using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 6: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CORDING

Step 1: Cut several strips of fabric at 1.5″ wide.  You’ll need 3 yards total of length (or 108″).

Step 2: Sew strips together across the short edge, right sides together.

Step 3: Press open seam allowance.

Step 4: Fold your fabric right sides together, with the long edges now touching.  And sew with 1/2″ seam allowance down the entire length.

Step 5: Carefully trim down your seam allowances and cut the straps to the desired length.  In this instance, you need 54″ per strap.

Step 6: Using your favorite turning method, turn the tubes right side out.  Press your new straps, and top stitch along edges if desired.

Are you someone who considers themselves to be more of a visual learner?  Here’s a video that walks you through all of the same steps above.  Hopefully it helps!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the adorable It’s a Cinch…Bag that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Have a great week, Pirates!

Sporty Piko – easy hacks

Ahoy, matey! As with most of our new releases, the P4P blog team has some easy hacks ready for you to help achieve even more looks. First stop by the shop and grab the Sporty Piko and Youth Sporty Piko, then let’s get started.

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Solid Back

You might have noticed that both the Sporty Piko and the Youth SP feature a color blocked back to allow for multiple prints or color fabric to be showcased. Well, what if you want a solid back without the horizontal seam? Super easy hack!

Start by printing your preferred style. Now grab the two back pieces. At this point you can do one of two things- remove the 1/2″ seam allowance from each piece and tape together (shown in first picture). Shown in the second picture, you could also fold each piece up 1/2″ and butt the two pieces together, matching the FOLD line and the side seam and …boom! There you have your new back pattern piece.

 

Cut your pattern pieces and sew the shirt as per the tutorial. Simply skip the steps that show you how to sew the two back pieces.

Tadah! All done! One more option to add to the Sporty Piko styles.

My little man absolutely loves his new shirt but if you want to treat yourself to an adult Sporty Piko with a solid back, simply follow the same steps and enjoy!

 

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Elastic crop top

Maybe you want a cute crop but aren’t interested in fussing with the drawstring option?  I’ve got you covered!

Follow all of the instructions for the crop option, including the 1″ hem.

Top stitch around the entire folded edge, leaving around a 3″ opening to thread the elastic through.  (I like to position my opening on the back portion of my items, but it’s really a personal preference.

Using 3/4″ knit elastic, cut a length that is your waist measurement, minus 2″.

Feed the elastic through the opening.

Overlap the raw edges of the elastic, being careful not to twist it, by 1″.  Sew the overlapped pieces together, using a stretch stitch.

Close up the opening of the bottom hem, and enjoy your new crop!

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Banded crop top

Elastic… draw string… and now we’re bringing to you a third option to finish off your crop top versions- a banded option. This is a quick and easy way to finish off your top, especially for those of us who are opposed to the dreaded finishing hem! 🙂

To create this look, you will need to cut out all of your pieces needed for the cropped version, as well as a band (discussed later). Once you’ve cut out your pieces, you will want to trim 1″ off of both the front and back pieces (everything else will remain the same).

Assemble your shirt as per the pattern directions. Once you’ve completed your shirt, it is now time to attach the band. You will want to measure the total bottom hem of your shirt. To calculate the final width of your band, you will take your total measurement x 90%. Then add 1″ for the seam allowance. For the women’s version, I recommend a length of 4″ and for the youth, a length of 3-4″, depending on where you would like the finished length to be.

Using the instructions for the banded version in the tutorial, attach your bad. That’s it! Go off and enjoy that new shirt you’ve just finished up using one of our three finishing options.

~Erinn and Nicole

Now that you got your patterns and looked over our easy hacks, time to sew! Remember to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group so we can all admire them.

Sporty Piko :: New Pattern Release!

I’m so excited to share our new releases with you today! The Sporty Piko has quickly been filling up my closet! You can get such a great variety of looks with this pattern <3

You wont believe all these looks can come from just one pattern! The Sporty Piko and Sporty Piko- Youth will have you asking, “How many Sporty Pikos is TOO MANY?” 😉

 

These patterns are drafted for a stretch knit fabric, but you are open to so many different types depending on what look you’re going for.  Want an everyday tee?  A hemmed option paired with  drapey jersey will give you that look.  Or are you going for a sweatshirt feel?  Try a french terry paired with the hood, drawstring or banded option for that more sporty style.

Both the adult and youth versions have a very loose, relaxed, even oversized fit.  They are drafted with two sleeve lengths (short and long sleeve with cuffs), a large size range (XXS – Plus 3X in women’s and 3M – 14 in youth), have multiple length options (crop hemmed, crop with drawstring, shirt banded and curved tunic), two choices to finish off the neckline (traditional neckband and a hood) as well as a fun, optional front chest pocket.  The back has a yoke at the top you can play up or down depending on fabric choices.

The Sporty Piko can make a great athletic top or a basic everyday tee too.  They’re so quick and simple to sew up you will have a stack in no time!

 

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

SHORT SLEEVE

LONG SLEEVE WITH CUFF

CROP HEMMED OR DRAWSTRING

SHIRT BANDED OR CURVED TUNIC

NECKBAND OR HOOD

FRONT CHEST POCKET

BACK VIEW

The most difficult thing will be to decide what option to sew up first!  Go grab your pattern(s) now and go ahead and plan one of each!

SPORTY PIKO | SPORTY PIKO YOUTH | SPORTY PIKO BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Sporty Piko Album | Sporty Piko-Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Saturday, April 6, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

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