Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

All Gather Round Hacks

ALL GATHER ROUND HACKS

Ruffle on Short Sleeve Hack:

Copy your favorite ready-to-wear look with this simple hack!

Adding a ruffle to the sleeve of the new Gather ‘Round pattern is a very simple hack to further extend the versatility of your pattern.

Start by cutting out the short sleeve pattern pieces.

Measure the bottom hemline.

Multiply that measurement by 1.75 to get the length of your ruffle piece (i.e. 12” x 1.75 = 21”).

I made a ruffle that is 2.5” long, but you can make yours longer or shorter to your preference. My sleeve hem was 12” so I cut my ruffle pieces 3” tall (to accommodate the seam allowance on both ends) x 21” long.

Use your preferred gathering method to fit the ruffle to the sleeve. Baste in place, then sew.

From this point forward, complete your make per the pattern instructions.

Skirt only Hack:

I have been all over the swirly skirt and crop top look this year, and when we started testing the All Gather Round I couldn’t resist making the skirt section on its own to add to my collection.

This is the simplest and easiest hack out there, just head over and grab the waistband pattern piece in your size from the FREE  Peg Legs pattern.

I used a viscose elastane fabric for the skirt pieces, but that wouldn’t have worked for the waistband as it wouldn’t have enough body to hold the skirt up.  I decided on a plain black cotton/lycra for my waistband, but whatever you use it will need great stretch and recovery as the skirt can end up pretty heavy with all those tiers attached.  Then cut your fabric for the waistband using the Pegs pattern piece.

Cut your skirt pieces according to the instructions for the All Gather Round.  I had:

1 x waistband

2 x top tier

3 x mid tier

5 x bottom tier

(the tier pieces are folded in the photo above, just to get them all in the pic)

Then simply construct your skirt according to the tutorial for the All Gather Round but instead of attaching it to the bodice you attach it to the waistband.  It really couldn’t be easier!

Give it a good press with some steam to help the gathers behave, and you’re all done.  Enjoy your new twirly, swirly skirt!  I’m wearing this with the crop length top from the Rainbow Dress Pattern

 

Exposed Seam Hack:

I have been seeing dresses and tops with exposed seams everywhere lately, and a hack showcasing this fun trend could not be simpler!

First, choose your options for the Gather ’round Dress, and complete the steps up to Step 4. That means you’ll be constructing your bodice, adding optional pockets if desired and sewing the side seams of your skirt tiers.

At this point, you may choose to finish the raw edges of your skirt tiers, as these will be exposed once the dress is complete. This is completely up to you! I chose to do so on this version, because I like the more finished look it gave it, although leaving the edges raw is also just fine. Just make sure that if you do choose this option, to be careful NOT to cut any of the seam allowance off with your serger.

Next, select the top tier of your skirt, and run two rows of gathering stitches across the top long edge, as directed in the pattern tutorial. You’ll want to have it line up roughly with the circumference of your bodice, as shown here.

The next step is where the exposed seams come into play! This time, attach the top skirt tier to the bodice WRONG SIDES together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn your dress right side out. At this point, particularly if you’ve used a different colored bodice lining like I have here, you’ll want to trim the seam allowance of the bodice ONLY, being careful not to cut through the stitching. This will reduce bulk and enable your skirt to lay more nicely as well.

Press the seam allowance up toward the bodice, and topstitch just below the exposed edge of the skirt.

Depending on the options you’ve chosen for your Gather ’round Dress, repeat these steps until all skirt tiers are attached. Hem as usual.

You’ve done it! Now step back and admire your gorgeous and trendy exposed seams.

 

Gathered Cap Sleeve with Long Sleeves Hack:

I really love the flutter and long sleeve combo and it’s super simple to achieve!

Follow the Gather ‘Round dress tutorial for adding the gathered cap sleeves to the bodice but use a basting stitch.

Place the right side of the long sleeve on top of the wrong side of the gathered cap sleeve, and attach flat, easing the shoulder of the sleeve to match the armscye. Pull out all basting stitches.

With right sides together and matching the armpit seam. Pin and stitch the side seam from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge of the bodice. Continue with tutorial to attach the skirt.

Voila! All done!

Tie Up Top Easy Hacks

Tie Up Top Easy Hacks

Hood

I had a hard time narrowing down options for the Tie Up Top, like I always do when I’m drafting up a pattern! One option that I wanted, but just couldn’t squeeze in anymore into the pattern was a hood! I thought it would be so cute with the crop, long ties option! So, here I am to show off how to add a hood to it if you’re like me and think it’s an adorable combo.

Cut your Tie Up Top with the rounded/crew neckline. I used the hood from the Sporty Piko….bonus! Cut that out in the same size as your Tie Up Top is.

 

Next sew up the Tie Up Top completely following the tutorial, just leaving the neckline raw.  Sew up the hood as the Sporty Piko tutorial instructs up to the part that attaches to the neckline.

We will now follow the instructions on the Sporty Piko for attaching the hood.  Match the hood at the back centers.  Then continue pinning/clipping the hood to the neckline without stretching neckline or hood.  The notches on the hood should be close to the center front.  It might not be perfect since we’re using 2 different patterns, but it will be close! My size 7 matched up great.

Stitch the hood to the neckline.

Now…. if you’re like us… you’ll also need some matching pants and a bow to go with it 😉

Wear it tied in front

Or wrapped to the back and tied.

Either way, you have an amazing new hoodie! I hope I have time to make myself one in waffle knit soon too!

 

Diagonal Stripes Two Ways!

The center seam of the new Tie Top pattern makes it perfect for scrap-busting and playing with pattern placement! Here are two ways that I added a diagonal stripe detail to the front of my makes.

 

Colorblocking

I am fully committed to projector sewing at the moment, but this hack is easiest to accomplish with a printed pattern piece.

 

Start by printing and assembling (if necessary) your front bodice pattern piece of choice.

 

I wanted my colorblocking to begin just below the armscye. You may wish to carry yours higher. If so, the same steps apply!

 

I started by measuring the side seam. Mine was 12”. I divided in half and marked my pattern piece at this halfway point (6”). I also made a mark ½” from the bottom of the armscye and above the hemline to account for the seam allowance. I copied these marked positions on the opposite side of the pattern piece.

I then drew a diagonal line from the top outside mark to the inside center point. Repeat for the marks below.

 

Trace another line ¼” above and below your original lines. These represent your seam allowances and fold lines.

 

It’s time to cut your pieces! Fold up the first block at the #1 line indicated below. Repeat for the other two pieces, folding your pattern piece at the corresponding lines.

Sew in order, right sides together, with a ¼” seam allowance and top stitch. Isn’t your front bodice CUTE??!!

From this point, follow the assembly instructions that come with your pattern.

Striped Fabric

It’s very easy to achieve a diagonal detail with striped fabric. Just be careful about how you cut it. Rather than cutting two pieces at a time, I chose to cut one panel first, then the other. I wanted to make sure my stripes were as accurate as possible.

I have a clear ruler imprinted with angles and decided to use the 60° angle to line up my pattern piece. The angle of your diagonal lines is totally up to you – it’s most important that the sides mirror each other.

Cut your first panel, flip it over, line up your stripes, and cut out your second panel.

Assemble per the pattern instructions. I recommend pinning or clipping ever second or third stripe to keep it beautifully lined up as you sew.

Enjoy!

24/7 Tank Hack

24/7 Tank Hack

If there is something I am always looking for a little bit more of in life, it’s comfort!  I started making all my own bras a few years ago, and a soft and comfortable knit bra pattern is something I just love.  When we made the 24/7 Tank in testing I couldn’t get enough of the integral bra with it, and knew I had to hack it to make the perfect everyday undies for me too.

I used a lovely athletic jersey fabric from Crafty Baba, here in the UK, with a 95/5 cotton lycra from my lining.  You need a stable fabric with good stretch and great recovery. This honestly couldn’t be much easier to do. I started by tracing the bra pieces from the 24/7 Tank pattern, and then added 1/4″ seam allowance onto the neckline and armscye curves of both the front and back bra pattern pieces.  In my pictures below, the original pattern is traced in black biro and the extra 1/4″ seam allowance is drawn in a permanent marker, to make it a little easier to see.

Then I cut out the following pieces:

FRONT

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh (optional but gives better support)

BACK

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh

ELASTIC

1 x under bust elastic cut to measurements provided in pattern.

Sew your outer fabric together at the shoulder seams, right sides together using your regular 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally, for your lining you can baste the inner lining to the wrong sides of the lining fabric before you sew the shoulder seams together, this helps make sure everything gets layered together properly.  I didn’t in this example as I was comfortable handling everything without but it’s easy to get confused.

Then sew your lining together at the shoulder seams, right sides together.  Your fabric should be layered as such: back inner lining power mesh, back lining right sides up, front lining right sides down, front inner lining power mesh.

Next lay the lining fabric out flat, right sides up (the attached power mesh inner lining will be at the bottom).  Lay the outer fabric right sides down on top.  Pin or clip the fabric together around the neckline. Sew together using your favourite stretch stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I sew 1/4″ clear elastic into the seam as I go using my overlocker/serger.  This helps recovery of the seam and gives greater support for a larger bust.

 

Next you will flip the garment right sides out again through the neckhole. Press carefully.

We will now finish the armscyes using a burrito roll method.  You can follow this video tutorial for the Boundless dress which guides you through step by step, just remember we are only using a 1/4″ seam allowance for the armscyes. Burrito Roll Method – P4P You Tube

Or the written instructions are to lay the fabric out flat, rights sides out.  Then roll one side of the bodice up towards the other side.

When you get near the top, flip the bottom of the open edges out under the roll and up over the top of it to encase the roll inside the open edge.

Then pin or clip along the length of the curved armscye.  Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance being careful to keep the roll of fabric inside the shoulder strap well out of the way of the stitches.

Pull your garment right sides out through the finished shoulder strap.  Here you can see the left side is finished and the right is not.

To finish the right side too, lay the garment out again and roll the finished side up towards the unfinished side. Then flip the bottom fabric on the unfinished side out under the roll, and up over the top to encase it again, like before.  Stitch again.

Pull your garment right sides out through the shoulder strap once more and give it a press.

Now we just have to finish the side seams.  To do this we open out the main from the lining on both the front and back, and clip them right sides together, matching main with main and lining with lining.  Then sew the side seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat on the other side.

Your bra is now almost finished, you just have to stitch the elastic to the bottom.  Butt the edges of the elastic together and sew them together using a wide, short zig zag stitch.  Then quarter the elastic and the bottom of the bra and sew the elastic on as per the instructions in the 24/7 Tank tutorial.

 

You’re all done!  I hope you love your comfy new lounge bra.  They’re so quick to make you can whip up another in next to no time.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Dana xxx

 

 

Sugar Maple Skirt :: Easy Hacks

Have you heard the news?  P4P just dropped our latest pattern and it’s the swishiest, twirliest thing we’ve put out in a while!

The Sugar Maple Skirt is an a-line skirt with a full circle drop yoke.  It is designed to be worn at the natural waist and comes in four lengths: mini, knee, tea and maxi.  The top yoke has a flattering, body skimming silhouette, while the fuller part of the skirt joins just below the booty.

Whichever length you choose, each provides for ALL the swishy, twirly goodness that you could hope for in a skirt. The Sugar Maple is a great basic skirt pattern to have, an excellent sewing project for beginners, and it comes together so quickly that you’ll end up making multiple before you even know what happened!

Before you do anything else, go read all about the newest pattern: the Sugar Maple Skirt!  It’s available in Adult – Hourglass and Youth sizes and is just the sweetest.

But guess what we went and did?  We made it even sweeter by giving you some super easy, super fun pattern hacks to take the pattern a little further!

Dress Hack

The best way to get a little bit of twirl into your life is with the new Sugar Maple Skirt, I think we can all agree on that! If you love the twirly, whirly skirt but like the ease of a dress then this hack is for you. My daughter is now 8 and insists on picking her own outfits, but some of her choices can be pretty adventurous and she loves a colour clash. For me, a dress is the easiest option every time. I matched the Sugar Maple Skirt with the bodice of the Rainbow Dress Youth

They meshed together perfectly!

All I had to do was cut out the bodice of the Rainbow Dress and Sugar Maple Skirt as normal and just omit the waistband for the skirt.  I sewed them each up individually as per their instructions and then laid them down next to each other to check they would fit together nicely at the waist.

I had to shave a smidge off the side seams at the waist of the bodice to get a perfect fit, but it was only 1/4″ either side.  Then quarter your bodice and skirt pieces at the waist, using clips or pins.

Flip the skirt up and over the bodice so they are right sides together, and clip them together.

Finally, just sew the skirt to the bodice and you’re done.  It’s as easy as that!

Twirl away to your heart’s content.  I hope you love your new dress as much as we do. Happy Sewing! Dana xx

Skort Hack

As soon as the testers started talking about their plans for the Sugar Maple Skirt, many of them decided that it’d be the perfect skirt to turn into a skort — and we have the perfect pattern to help create that with the Peg Leg Leggings!  Many thanks to Kalene Bartlett, our tester extraordinare, who photographed her steps of making the ::perfect:: skort! My sisters-in-law are big runners and I think they’d adore a running skirt like this!  But I’ve also heard that plenty of mommas would love to have some added coverage for chasing littles around during the warmer months….not to mention it’s a perfect solution for fighting off that dreaded thigh chafing experience while rocking skirts. Because the Sugar Maple Skirt is meant to sit at the high waist, you’ll want to cut the Peg Legs pattern at the high-waisted cut line. You’ll need:

  • Peg Legs Leggings, in shortie / biker length…depending on the length of your skirt (assembled per the pattern instructions)
  • Sugar Maple Waistband
  • Sugar Maple Skirt top + drop yokes (assembled per the pattern instructions)

Mark the quarter points on both the Peg Legs and Sugar Maple skirt.  Slide the Peg Legs inside of the skirt, right side of the Pegs facing the wrong side of the Sugar Maple.  Pin/clip in place.

Find the quarter points of the waistband, and slide over the Sugar Maple / Peg Legs pieces…matching previously marked quarter points.

Sew all 3 pieces together, stretching the waistband and Peg Legs slightly to match — careful not to stretch the skirt opening.

Flip waistband up.  Hem skirt and shorts.

You’re finished!  Now go be like Kalene and be cut, comfortable AND covered in your new Peg Legs / Sugar Maple Skort!

I am beyond excited to see the Sugar Maple Skirts that you make!  Head on over to the shop and grab yourself a copy of these new patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, April 17, 2022.

Sugar Maple Skirt – Adult | Sugar Maple Skirt – Youth | Sugar Maple Skirt BUNDLE

Hoping for a little inspiration before diving into some Sugar Maple sewing?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sugar Maple Skirt: Adult Album | Sugar Maple Skirt: Youth Album

Grace Dress- Easy Hacks

Ahoy pirates! The newest P4P pattern is here and it’s a must have. The gorgeous Grace dress features so many sleeves options but we just had to show you one more. We couldn’t let this release happen without showcasing probably the easiest hack in the history of hacks…the Grace flared sleeve.

 

Djem here, with another simple hack for some cool flared sleeves! Can’t decide between the flutter sleeve or the bishop sleeve? Want a mash of the two? Flared sleeves is the answer!

This can be done using either the 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve bishop options. Simply omit the elastic and then finish the hem using the narrow hem instructions for the flutter sleeve. Voila!

 

Facing Hack

If you, like me, are getting ready to cut out the fabric for your Grace Dress and realise that you have forgotten to buy your lining fabric, you can very easily make a facing instead. It won’t work if you are using a translucent fabric, like a chiffon (as you will be able to see the facing through the main fabric) but for the crepe I had picked out for my Grace, it worked perfectly. 

 

First of all you will start by taking your main bodice front and back pieces, and drafting your facing pieces. I use a projector these days, but if you have a paper pattern you can use a tracing paper or just re print the pages that give you the necklines of both bodice pieces. 

 

Take your front bodice and trace off the original neck cutline, then using a measuring tape or ruler mark 2 inches away along the length of the neckline. Then join the dots. You can use a French curve to help you here. 

 

Do the same for the back bodice neckline. These will be your facing pieces. 

 

Cut these out of your fabric and you will have two pieces that look like this. 

 

Then cut out the same facing pieces from a light weight interfacing. This will help stabilise the neckline and give a better finish. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of your facing pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Sew them together, rights sides together, at the shoulder seams. 

 

If you haven’t already, sew your front and back main bodice pieces together at the shoulder seam. Then lay your facing pieces, rights sides together with the main bodice pieces, matching the fronts and backs together and matching the shoulder seams.  Sew them together around the neckline. Making sure not to stretch the fabric as you sew. 

 

Finish the raw edge (the long, outer curved edge you haven’t just sewn to the bodice) of your facing using a serger or your preferred method.  Using a sharp pair of scissors, like these duck bill scissors, CAREFULLY trim down your facing seam allowance only to a ¼”. This will layer the seam allowances and reduce bulk. Then clip along the neckline, up to, but not through, the seam line. Turn through and give it a good press. 

 

You now have two options. You can use a hemming tape, like this Wundaweb, to fuse the facing to the outer which stops it flipping out, or you can top stitch the facing down. I did both! 

 

That’s it. You can now finish the rest of your garment as per the tutorial. 

Enjoy your beautiful new frock.

 

Happy Sewing! 

Dana x

 

How gorgeous do Djem and Dana look? I must admit, I will be adding these sleeves to my next Grace dress. I am thinking lace! I can’t wait to what your take will be on the Grace dress.

Kelli Dress Hacks

Straight Cut Skirt

I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.

The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.

The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).

I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece.  Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.

I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!

Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.

If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.

 

As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting.  Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.

Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial.  Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.

Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up.  Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another.  Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.

Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces.  Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.

Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely.  Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.

Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!

Nice and quick and easy.  I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

 

Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit

If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).

Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to.  Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.

It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!

 

 

Lumberjack – Reversible Hack

It’s here! It’s here! And I don’t mean only the cooler weather! The updated Lumberjack Shacket is here and now it it’s available in V figure (based on men measurements) and Hourglass figure (women’s measurement). Everyone gets a Lumberjack shirt or shacket!

The pattern includes a lined and an unlined option so today on the b log I wanted to show you how to take the lined option and make it fully reversible! Yup, one shirt that can be worn both ways. 

Let’s get started! Print and cut the pattern and fabric as instructed in the tutorial. Make sure you use the lined option. For this tutorial I used a nylon, poly blend woven (the solid black) and a custom minky (the green one) for the lining.

NOTE: the hood I used for this hack is 1″ smaller on the front that the final pattern. If you want to achieve this exact look, remove 1″ from the hood pieces as show below. If you use the pattern hood as is, make sure to read below what small adjustments you need to make.

Once all pattern pieces are cut sew the main bodice and add sleeves and pockets as instructed in the tutorial. Repeat with the lining. Set the bodices aside for now. Sew the hood as per the lined tutorial. Place the hood (lining out) right sides together on the lining neckline. The hood will be about 1/2″ shorter than the lining neckline. 

Sew the hood in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure to stitch through all 3 layers. 

If you use the pattern hood, you will place the lined hood right sides together with the MAIN, not lining. The center back will match the neckline back and the front point will reach the fold line of the inner fold line. Sew it in place. Lay the lining over, right sides together and stitch along the neckline. The hood will be sandwiched between the right sides of the bodices. 

Tip: Tie the two sleeves in a knot for both main and lining so they are out of the way when you sew. 

Place your main and lining right sides together matching the raw edges of the neckline and bottom. Pin them in place.

The main will be longer, that’s the way it is supposed to be.

Sew along the neckline, the hood will be sandwiched in between the main and lining. Sew the bottom edge too. Seam allowance for these steps is 1/2 inch. 

Turn the jacket right side out. We will now top stitch the neckline and bottom hem.

When top stitching, fold the excess fabric down (or up) 1/2″ on the placket part. See picture below for how it will look both at the neckline and bottom hem. 

Following the first fold marking, press the front placket once on both sides. Pin in place. I like to add a strip of water soluble double sided tape to the raw edge of the lining. It will help tremendously when sewing.

Note: if you used the bigger hood, it will go all the way to the fold on both sides. 

Fold the placket one more time along the second fold line. This will no overlap over the raw edge of the lining, right where the double sided tape is. Press it down with your fingers. If you don’t have any DST handy for this step, you can always pin it in place. Sew the placket down.

I also like to top stitch all around the placket, on all 4 sides. Once you finish these steps (and your jacket looks like the pic below) set it aside. 

CUFFS

Let’s work on the cuffs. Press both cuffs, length wise. Open them up and press the top of each cuff 1/2″. Thus will create a memory hem. With the cuffs opened up, sew each at the short end to create a loop. 

Refold the top memory hem over the loop. 

Place the unfolded raw edge of the cuff on the lining sleeve opening. You will stretch the cuff to fit the opening. Match the sleeve seam with the cuff seam. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat this step with the other cuff and lining sleeve.

Time to make it look like a shirt! Push the lining sleeve through the main sleeve so they are wrong sides together. 

Fold the cuff along the middle crease that we pressed earlier. The edge is still folded 1/2′. Once you bring the cuff over, the sleeve raw edge will be inclosed in the cuff. Pin the edge of the cuff on the sleeve all around. 

Stitch the cuff down. Look how beautiful is the cuff with no raw edges on the lining! Take a second to admire your work!

BUTTONS

Sew the button holes on one of the plackets. Let’s add the buttons now! To make this Lumberjack fully reversible I added buttons on both sides of the placket. I hate to say it but the easiest way to do this is to hand 🖐 stitch 🖐  the buttons on both sides simultaneously. Make sure that you don’t pull the thread extremely tight. You need wiggle room for the buttons to be able to be fastened. 

All done! This is how to take the newest Lumberjack pattern and turn it into a fully reversible shacket. 

I am very excited to see if you take on this project! Don’t forget to share it in our Facebook group and on Insta! 

All Buttoned-Up | Easy Hacks

Grab those buttons and snaps…the All Buttoned Up pattern is here!! What a beautiful staple for year round sewing. We am so excited to bring you two easy hacks for the All Buttoned Up pattern that will give you even more options. First off, the gorgeous Dana is showing how to achieve the – ohh so popular – lettuce hem look. In the second half of the blog, our talented Rachel is creating separates with the ABU pattern. Yes!

…..

LETTUCE HEM HACK

 

If you are looking to give a cute and flirty finish to your new cardigan, a lettuce hem is a great way to go. It’s quick and easy and looks fantastic.  Here’s how to do it!

First you will want to remove your hem allowance.  Shorten the bottom edge of your bodice piece by 1”, and the bottom edge of your sleeves by ½”.  Cut out the rest of your pieces as normal.

Then continue with the tutorial instructions until you reach the part where you are told to memory press the hems.  We don’t have hems so instead you will sew the bottom half of the side seams together.  This will enable you to hem the whole of the bottom edge in one go.  (You can’t sew the whole of the side seam, otherwise you will have to hem your sleeves in the round, which is a little tricky with a rolled hem).

Next we will change our overlocker/serger onto its settings for a 3 thread, narrow rolled hem.  You will need to remove your left needle and then change your tensions, stitch length, width and differential feed. Your manual will show you how to do this.  This is the page from my manual for reference but different machines will have slightly different settings.

 The only difference between a lettuce hem and a regular narrow rolled hem is to decrease the differential feed down as far as it goes, and to gently pull the fabric to stretch it as you feed it into the presser foot.  Both of these actions will stretch the fabric as it is sewn, and helps give the wobbly lettuce edge.

You can also slow the fabric as it comes out of the back of the feed dogs, and gently stretch the hem once it is sewn, as this increases the ruffled look.

Then, once you have perfected your narrow rolled hem on scrap fabric you can hem both sleeves and the bottom edge of the cardigan.

 

Reset your machine to its previous settings and finish sewing the side seams, from the hem edge of the sleeve up to the underarm, and down to join the top of the previous side seam stitching. Weave in your tails, or trim and finish with fray stop.

Construct the rest of your garment as per the pattern tutorial.

You’re done! Enjoy your fun new cardigan.

 

 

Happy Sewing

Dana x

 

 

…..

SEPARATES

Versatility is a requirement in my wardrobe so I always put my patterns to work for me. As soon as I saw the All Buttoned Up Cardigan, I knew I wanted to create separates, too!

For this make, I worked up a cropped cardigan and a pencil skirt, with the crew neck and self-facing placket options. You can follow the same method for the v-neck with banded placket.

Start with the dress length cardigan and cut the full length piece in half at the “Crop” length line. You will now have your cardigan and skirt pieces separated.

Construct your cardigan per the pattern directions.

Assemble your skirt by stitching together at the back and sides.

Cut fusible interfacing strips that are 1.5” wide by the length of your skirt. Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning with the front edges of your skirt. Just as you did with the cardigan, press the front edge ¾” towards the inside and press.

Cut your waistband 5” tall by the length of the top of your skirt, minus ½”. For example, the top of my skirt is 31” wide so I cut my band 30.5” long.

From here you have 2 options. If your fabric has great stretch and recovery, you can cut 2 strips of interfacing ¾” wide by 5” tall. Fuse them to your fabric ½” from the edge.

 

If your fabric has poor recovery, you will want to cut a piece of 2” elastic to sew into your band. No interfacing is required because your elastic will provide stability to your waistband.

Assemble your waistband using the same instructions that you completed for the neckband.

Stitch your waistband to the top of your skirt, ¾” away from the front edge of your skirt.

Complete your skirt placket, buttons, and hem using same instructions for the cardigan.

 

Wear your pieces together for a coordinated look or separately with jeans or a sweater… your options are unlimited!

Happy sewing!

Rachel

We hope you enjoyed these simple modifications to the All Buttoned Up pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can all admire them!

Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: Easy Hacks

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Drawstring

 

No elastic on hand, no problem you can still sew up your Paperbag pants, shorts or skirts and just add a drawstring instead!  Lets get started!

All pieces will be the same with the exception of the belt, if you are wanting to make your own drawstring you will cut 2 belt pieces instead of 4 as we are not going to use the lining pieces.  You can also used premade drawstring if you don’t want to make your own, you will just need to cut it the length of two belt pieces.

You are going to sew up your pants or skirt exactly as shown in the pattern until you get to your waist band.  Take your front waistband piece, iron it lengthwise in half and mark the center front and both your seam allowances and casing.  You will also want to mark two buttonholes on either side of your center front.  I placed mine about 3/4 of a inch from the center front on both sides, centering them in the middle of the casing section. (the middle section) I would also recommend adding interfacing to the back of your fabric where you are planning on sewing your buttonholes to add some stability.

Next you will sew your buttonholes on your sewing machine, make sure you are only sewing them through the one layer of fabric on the front waistband where you have marked.  Now you can finish your waistband as indicated in the pattern and attach it to your pants or skirt. Tip: instead of buttonholes you could add grommets for a different look.

If you are using premade drawstring you will just thread your drawstring through your buttonhole into the casing.  If you are wanting to make a matching drawstring you will sew your two belt pieces together along the short ends just like the instructions state for the belt, finish the seam or trim with pinking sheers.  Next fold the belt in half, long edges together and sew down the long edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Trim the seam allowance close to the seam but not through and turn your tube inside out to form your drawstring and press well. I just use a safety pin to turn my drawstring inside out but you can use whatever method you find easiest.  If you would like you can topstitch the drawstring as well.  You can also finish the ends or just knot the ends as I have done here.  Insert your drawstring into your casing and you are done!

 

 

Angela

 

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Half  ties

 

If you like the idea of a belt but are a bit short on fabric, or like me, constantly lose separate belts, then this hack will show you how to make a half-belt, sewn into the side seams of the new Paperbag Pants.

First of all you will cut out your pattern pieces as usual, except for the belt pieces.  For the belt you will simply cut out 3 belt pieces, instead of 4; and only 2 belt loops, instead of 3.

 

 

Construct your trousers/shorts as per the tutorial until you come to the waistband and belt pieces. Then take your 3 belt pieces and sew the short sides together until you have one long piece.  Fold it in half and cut to make 2 pieces, then take each of those 2 pieces and cut them in half until you have 4 pieces of even length.

 

You will have two pieces without a seam and 2 pieces that have a seam in the middle.  Take one piece without a seam and one piece with a seam and sew them right sides together, starting from the short edge nearest the seam, up one long edge, across the top and back down the other long edge, leaving the bottom short edge open. Clip the corners and turn through.  Press and top stitch.

 

Next, take your waistband pieces and lay the back piece out facing up, then measure ½” from the bottom edge and lay one of your waist ties on it, with the side that has the seam facing up.  Lay the front waistband piece, facing down, on top of it.  Pin/clip and sew down the short side of the waistband, sandwiching the waist tie in the centre.  Repeat for the other side.

 

Fold the waistband wrong sides together and press.  Sew your channel for the elastic, as instructed in the tutorial, being careful to move your waist ties out of the way as you come to the side seams so that you don’t catch them in the stitching.

 

 

Sew the waistband on as normal, the only difference is that you will only be using the front belt loops (2 in total), thread in your elastic, and you can finish off by tying your waist ties in a bow!

 

 

Enjoy your new garment and never have to worry about losing those waist ties again.

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

Infinity Wrap – easy hacks

Infinity Wrap is here! As with the rest of the P4P patterns, this one is definitely not lacking in options. With this release hack blog we wanted to show you two easy mods you can do to the pattern. First off, I will slim down the straps to a tapered end. Second hack will be a crop option. You can use both on the same Infinity Wrap or just one.

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Tapered Straps

The Infinity Wrap features long wide straps that you can wrap in various styles. But what if you want the straps to have less bulk towards the ends? Well… easy! Let’s taper them. Place both straps on top of each other (so we can make only one mark and one cut). Find the center of the short end. Fold the strap length wise at the center. We will now mark the center of the folded piece.

Mark the center of the long side of the straps. I used a clip for this step.

Lay the folded straps on the table. Make sure they are all nice and wrinkle free. Draw a straight line from the center of the folded short end to the center of the long edge. Using a quilting ruler and a rotary cutter, cut along the drawn line.

That’s it! It is that easy to make a tapered strap.

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Crop Top

Now let’s make  a crop top! Start by cutting the straps as per the tutorial. You will not need the pants, briefs or skirt. You do need to cut a strip of fabric, that is the length of the waist elastic. You can grab that measurement from the cutting chart.  I cut the band 5″ tall. Since I wanted to use the left over fabric I had on hand I actually made the band out of two pieces, instead of one. Press the band lengthwise.

Open the band and press 1/2″ along both length of the band as shown below.

Open the memory hems. Sew the short ends of the band to create a loop.

Mark the center of the band. You will have the seam on the back if you made the band out of one piece or on the sides if your band has two pieces like mine. Create straps as in the tutorial and mark the center piece.

Gather the straps.

Matching the center markings pin the straps to the band, right sides together. Sew in place with a straight stitch or serger.

Fold the memory hems, fold the band along the center and pin wrong side together. Using your favorite stretch stitch, sew as close to the edge as possible.

TIP: if your fabric has poor recovery or you need more support, slide a 1.5″ elastic in the band.

The Infinity crop top is now ready to be paired with your favorite Patterns for Pirates skirt (I used the Pirate Pencil Skirt) or pants.

We can’t wait to see your take on the Infinity Wrap!

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