Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Roller Derby Bralette :: Easy Hack

I’m here to show off a super easy hack for the new Roller Derby Bralette.  I didn’t put this as an option in the main pattern because it requires a very specific type of FOE that I’ve only found at Joanns.  It also will most likely only work well for smaller bust sizes.

I recommend using this very thick and stable FOE from Joanns (*affiliate link).  This FOE gives a lot more support for an underbust than any other FOE I’ve ever seen. Most are a thin nylon spandex, but this one is actually elastic.

I recommend using the knit band measurement and attaching the foe just like the rest of the top.

I think it’s such a cute look for a bikini top!

We cannot wait to see what you create for yourself using the Roller Derby patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, June 19, 2024.

Ready to throw these in your cart and get to sewing? Find the patterns here:

If you ever want to purchase a bra/swim top and undies/swim bottoms together as a set you can use code: swimbundle to grab whatever top and bottom combo you love best and create your own swim/undies bundle 🙂

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

Roller Derby Shorties Facebook Album | Roller Derby Bralette Facebook Album

Sunnyside Sweater :: Easy Hacks

The Sunnyside Sweater (in both Adult – Hourglass and Youth sizes!) just landed in our shop! 

With many of our pattern releases, we like to provide extra ways to style and sew them up. And that’s exactly what we are doing here! We’ve got three more ways for you to make the Sunnyside Sweater patterns. Keep reading for some quick and easy hacks!

The Sunnyside Sweater is a dolman-style sweater with a generous, oversized fit. It features two hem lengths, crop and high hip, both of which are finished with a waistband to draw the garment back to the body. Alternately, the crop length has an option to finish the waistline with a double drawstring, allowing the wearer to tie the drawstrings at both sides of the waist, providing a unique and adjustable look. Opt for a traditional neckband for a classic look or choose a hood for a more casual and cozy feel. One of the standout features is the ability to create a colorblocked bodice, giving you the opportunity to mix and match different fabric prints and colors, adding a playful and personalized touch to your sweater.

Before we get started, make sure you grab a copy of the Sunnyside Sweater patterns in our shop:

Grommet Sleeve Hack

Let’s start with a super easy sleeve hack! A great way to add some visual interest to the Sunnyside Sweater sleeves is to add grommets and tread ribbon through them. The great thing about this easy hack is that it does not require any modifications to the pattern pieces or even the tutorial, just a couple of extra steps.

You can create this hack before you sew any of the tutorial steps. You will need:

  • the two sleeves
  • fusible interfacing (I like tricot interfacing for this, but a slightly thicker one would work too)
  • 12 grommets ( I prefer 12 mm ones)
  • a marking pen
  • quilting ruler
  • your preferred hole punching and grommets tool
  • ribbon (I didn’t have any on hand but I think a 1/2″ satin ribbon would look the best)

Let’s do this! Start by marking the center of the sleeve. I like to fold it in half and press it with my iron so it creates a crease.

Open the sleeve and mark the grommets placement on the wrong side. I like to space them 3″ from the top and from each other. I also prefer 3 sets but if you want to add more grommets and/or space them closer to each other you  can certainly do that.

Cut (12) 1″x1″ pieces of fusible interfacing – you will need 6 for each sleeve. Place them on the marked location and fuse them in place. I used a Frixon pen for my markings so they disappeared when I fused the interfacing. No big deal! Using the ruler, I added them again.

Time to punch the holes for your grommets. My preferred method for this step is using a KAM press with a 12 mm hole punch die. I am also a bag maker so I had this tool already. Admittedly it is a splurge so no stressing if you do not have one. You can simple draw the grommet holes and cut by hand.

Add the grommets! You can use a grommets table press or a hand held one for this step.

Lastly, admire that sleeve and thread your favorite ribbon through the holes.

You can now sew your Sunnyside Sweater as instructed in the tutorial.

Boom! You did it! I did the high hip, scoop neckline option for this cotton spandex Sunnyside Sweater. I also likes the look of a 1:1 band with a side split so that’s what I used for my waistband. Luckily we have a hack for it too! 💥

 

Hemmed Hack

Honestly, this one couldn’t be easier! For a trendy oversized look, you can leave off the waistband and simply hem your Sunnyside instead.  Here’s how I made mine.

First you’ll want to decide on the finished length you want for your sweater.  You can either measure the length of a sweater you already have or run a tape measure down from your shoulder and over your bust, then use the tape to decide on the finished length you want.  I had already made a regular Sunnyside and wanted a long crop length for my finished hem, so I cut on the bottom cutline (for the banded high hip length).

Turn the hem up by ¾” and press.  I like to use a slightly deeper hem than the usual 1/2″ because I think it hangs a bit better.

I like to use a ¼” wash away quilting tape for hemming tricky fabrics like sweater knits. It sticks your hem in place so you don’t need to use clips or pins, and stops the fabrics from stretching or shifting as you sew.  Then it disintegrates the first time you wash it!

Then just hem using your favourite stretch stitch – I used my Coverstitch here – and you’re done!

Enjoy your new sweater.

 

Happy Sewing,

Dana xx

Split Hem Hack

I love the look of a split hem – and it couldn’t be easier to achieve with the new Sunnyside Sweater. Using the hem band pattern piece as a guide, cut 2 bands that are the width of your bodice front and back.

Complete the construction of your sweatshirt to the step where the bottom band is sewn.

Fold the short ends of your bands, right sides together, and sew using the same seam allowance.

Turn right side out and press.

Clip one band to the raw edge of your bodice, front and back, making sure to butt the edges at the side seam and baste in place.

Sew the bands in place, press the seam towards the bodice, and topstitch in place (if you desire!).

I added a little tack for reinforcement, but this is not necessary! Just my personal preference.

Can’t wait to see how many Sunnyside Sweaters you sew up.

xxoo,

Rachel

We are looking forward to seeing the Sunnyside Sweaters you make for yourself, your family + your clients!

Both patterns are available now and on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, March 3, 2024.

Grab your copy of the Sunnyside patterns here: Sunnyside Sweater | Sunnyside Sweater – Youth | Sunnyside Sweater – Bundle

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

Sunnyside Sweater Adult Album | Sunnyside Sweater Youth Album

Janet Jeans Easy Hacks

You didn’t think we we would release a jeans pattern without including an option for the trendy button fly, did you? Such a fun way to add some details and vintage flare to your new Janet Jeans.

You’ll need our brand new pattern to complete these fun sewing hacks: Janet Jeans / Janet Jeans – Youth / Janet Jeans Bundle

Button Fly

Start by creating the left and right front pieces, just skipping any mention of the zipper.  The waistband is needed so you can add the button markings and space them evenly.  Fold the bottom and top raw edges of the waistband and pin it in place. You DO NOT need to sew the waistband on, just pin it. Using your favorite button hole spacing tool (I like the Expanding Sewing Gauge Button Guide *aff link) or a ruler, mark the button hole location.

Make sure you center the waistband button as shown below. I like adding 5 buttons to the Janet Jeans, which is the average for a button fly.  You might need only 4 if you’re removing quite a bit of length from the rise though.

Tip: do not space the buttons too close to each other as they will make buttoning more difficult. You also don’t want them too far or they might gap open. 

Add button holes to the front left side. I recommend using a matching thread. I know buttonholes can be intimidating, but I promise you, YOU GOT THIS! If you need any tips, tricks or hand holding, check out the Buttons and Buttonholes 101 P4P University blog we have for you.

Sew the front of the Janet Jeans as instructed in the tutorial.

Continue sewing up the jeans as the tutorial instructs. Using a small zig zag stitch, tack the front fly openings together to the left of the bottom buttonhole.

Overlap the fly and pin the waistband closed. Using a disappearing pen* or tailor chalk *, mark your button placements. I like to use the buttonholes we already made as a guide for the button location.

I highly recommend using jeans buttons*  for this hack but if you prefer to add regular buttons you can do that as well. Just make sure they are a similar size to jeans ones, approximately 20 mm.

You are all done! 👏 Take a moment to admire your brand new button front custom-made jeans!

RAW HEM

How about a raw hem Janet Jeans? Such a fun look and so easy to accomplish. If you want to keep the length of the inseam as per the pattern then you would have to shorten the bottom hem by 1 inch. I personally don’t mind a longer length so I keep the extra inch. Your call! Run two stay stitches 1 inch away from the raw hem. These stay stitches will prevent the fraying from extending past the stitches over time.

You’ll now need to make big decision 😉 …. how much do you want to fray your hem? I’d recommend starting with a little fraying… time and wear will definitely add to it. However, if you want to start off with a distressed look, go for it! Your jeans, your choice!

Ta-dah! Easy peasy! Enjoy your new pair of raw hem jeans!

Happy sewing,

Alex

 

We cannot wait to see what you create with the Janet Jeans pattern!

Here are some links to the patterns (in case you needed them):

We are so excited to see what you sew up for yourself using the Janet Jeans patterns! It is available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, February 18, 2024.

Find your copy of the Janet Jeans here: Janet Jeans | Janet Jeans – Youth | Janet Jeans Bundle

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

*Affiliate links.

Janet Jeans Adult Album | Janet Jeans Youth Album

Harriet Holiday Dress :: Easy Hacks

Get ready to elevate your sewing game with our “easy hacks” post for the Harriet Holiday Dress pattern. We’re sharing three ingenious ways to take this pattern a little further!

You’ll need this pattern to complete these super fun sewing hacks: HARRIET HOLIDAY DRESS

Ruched Tee and Facing

I have had a stripey ruched tee like this pinned for years, and when Katy popped some inspo pics of her new pattern up online, I knew that I had to hack it to make my own version.  I took some pictures along the way and I have instructions for cutting a ruched tee length top, and also for adding a facing instead of a lining here for you.

RUCHING

The first thing you’ll need to do is find a top pattern you like to hack onto the bottom of the Harriet bodice.  I went with the Rainbow Dress because I have made it before and knew I wanted a similar, slim fit look.

I used my projector to cut out the top of the Harriet bodice front, stopping at the bottom of the armscye.  Then I subbed in the Rainbow Dress bodice, matching both patterns at the bottom of the armscye, and used the Rainbow Dress pattern to cut out the bottom of my fabric down to the top length cutline.  Repeat for the back piece.

I cut a piece of 1/4″ clear elastic at 6.5″ length.  The top and bottom 1/2″ will be cut off when finished, they are just there to let you hold the elastic at either end when sewing it on. I pinned it 1″ below the finished centre front neckline edge, measured down 7.5″ and pinned the bottom.  You will be stretching 5.5″ of elastic to 7.5″ length.  When the elastic bounces back to its original length it causes the ruching.

Holding the top and bottom of the elastic by the 1″ ends, stretch the elastic whilst sewing it onto the wrong side of your bodice.  You can use a straight or a stretch stitch here, it doesn’t really matter.  You may find that you need to adjust the length of the elastic depending on which type of elastic you are using and which size of the pattern you are making.

Here is what the finished ruching will look like from the right side when it is done.

FACING

Sometimes you don’t want a lining, either because you don’t want the added layers and warmth or because, like me, you just hate using extra fabric when you don’t have to!  A facing is the best way of finishing a neckline like this if you don’t want to line the whole top, and it’s really easy.

First you will take your pattern pieces and trace off the neckline pieces at a 1.5″ depth, like this.

Then cut out these pieces out of your lining fabric on the fold.

Sew the shoulder seams on the outer fabric, and also on the facing pieces.

Place the facing pieces right sides together on top of the outer pieces. Pin around the pieces and sew them together with a 1/2″ seam allowance as per the original pattern instructions.  I find it helps to use a water soluble marker to mark out the 1/2″ seam allowance around the corners.  This helps with a really accurate sew.

Clip into the corners and turn the facing through to the inside.  Press, pin and topstitch around the facing to finish.

Then you can sew up the rest of your top or dress as per the original instructions and you’re all done!

 

Happy sewing,

Dana xx

Exposed Elastic Skirt

I have been on a skirt kick for a while now, and thought the skirt on the Harriet Holiday dress would be the perfect addition to my collection. I like the look of thick exposed elastic, so this was a fairly simple hack. Start out by cutting out the skirt portion of the pattern and then sew up the side seams, right-sides-together and then hem the skirt. To figure out the length of my elastic, I put the skirt on and wrapped the elastic around my waist. I made sure to exercise the elastic a bit by stretching it out and letting it bounce back a couple times before wrapping it around my waist. Adjust the length of your elastic based on how snug you like it around your waist, I don’t like it super tight, but just tight enough where the skirt doesn’t move around. 

 

Cut your elastic, and then burn the ends so that it doesn’t unravel.

Using a zigzag stitch, sew the ends of the elastic together. I like to use a  2.0 stitch length and 4.0 stitch width.

Mark the quarter points on the elastic and the skirt waist opening. With right sides together, match the quarter points of the elastic with the ones on the skirt waist opening. Sew with a stretch stitch or a serger (turn off the blade so it doesn’t cut into the elastic).

Optionally, you can flip the band over and top stitch or skip this part all together!

Now, Ta-dah! All done! I can’t wait to see what you create!

Happy Sewing!

Djem

We cannot wait to see what you create for yourself using the Harriet Holiday Dress pattern! It is available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, January 28, 2023.

Here is a direct link to the pattern: HARRIET HOLIDAY DRESS

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

Harriet Holiday Dress Facebook Album

Sophia Pencil Skirt :: Easy Hacks

Get ready to elevate your sewing game with our “easy hacks” post for the Sophia Pencil Skirt pattern. We’re sharing three ingenious ways to take this pattern a little further!

You’ll this pattern to complete these super fun sewing hacks: SOPHIA PENCIL SKIRT

Side Zipper Hack

Here is a super simple way to move the zipper from the back of the Sophia Pencil skirt to the side! Cut your fabric according to the instructions. Note that the zipper in the purple illustration below is the original pattern placement.

Next, transfer the zipper markings to the Front skirt and Left back skirt, using the original pattern pieces. I installed the zipper on the same side as my slit.

Re-arrange your pattern pieces, to match the below illustration with the pieces needing zippers on the outside. I color coded which seams need to be sewn together with dashed lines in the illustration below. Match the colored seams, right sides together, and sew. You’ll want to do this construction with the right side of your main fabric facing up and repeat with your lining but with the right side facing down.

 

Continue the construction of the skirt as listed in the tutorial! Easy, peasy!

Happy Sewing!

Djem

Button Front Hack

We are all loving our new Sophia Pencil Skirts, but if you love the look but want to make it without the zipper, then we have a simple hack to add a button front instead.  Not only does it look great but it means you haven’t got to install the zipper – win win!

For this hack we are using the skirt without the separate waistband. We will start by adding 2” extra width to the centre of the front main piece, and then cutting 2 x mirrored front skirts, rather than cutting on the fold.  This extra 2” will give us a ½” extra on each skirt piece for a 1” overlap, and a button placket.

Front skirt piece with 2 inch extra width added to fold line

 

For the lining we will add an additional ½” to the centre front of the lining piece.

With your main fabric, construct your darts and side seams as per the tutorial and then also sew the centre back seam too.  Repeat for your lining.

Right sides together, sew the main to the lining along the top, matching up your seams and darts.  Your lining will be shorter than your main at either end.

 

Flip the lining round to the inside.  Press the seam allowance towards the lining.  It is a good idea to understitch the skirt lining to the seam allowance to help stop it creeping out to the outside.  Give this top seam a good press with steam to help it lay flat.

 

We will be finishing the hems separately, so turn the lining hem to the wrong side by a ¼”, and then again by another ¼” . Press, then stitch hem with an edgestitch.

Moving back to the centre front seam, turn the front edge to the wrong side by ½” and press.  Then turn to the wrong side again by 1” and press.  This forms the button placket.  Your lining should fit nicely inside the placket, concealing the raw edge.  Stitch with an edgestitch – take your time to get a good straight stitch here as it will be visible at the front of your garment.  Repeat with the other front edge.

 

Turn the bottom hem up by ½” and hem.  Alternatively, you could hem by turning ¼” twice, again.

Sew on your button holes and buttons.  I like to place them fairly close together to prevent gaping.

You’re done! A nice and simple sew and a total wardrobe classic.

Happy sewing!

 

Dana xx

Belt Hack

I’ll admit, I got totally Pinspired with this one after seeing a really cute belted pencil skirt online, and had to further hack my button front skirt.  I knew it would be an easy hack on the new Sophia, so I got to it!

I wanted a fairly wide belt and decided on a finished width of 2.5”.  With an added ½” seam allowance that gave me a measurement of 3.5” for the belt width.  Then for the length I took a piece of ribbon and tied it round my waist with a decent sized bow.  This was 84” long ( I wear the plus 1X with a waist measurement of 42”, for reference).  This was too long for my fabric so I split it in two and added seam allowance.  My final measurements for the ties were 3.5” x 43”; cut 4.

You will have 4 tie pieces. Sew two of these tie pieces together along the short sides using a ½” seam allowance, repeat for the other two tie pieces.  Press the seam allowances open.  Place these two tie pieces right sides together and sew using a ½” seam allowance, making sure you leave a 2-3” gap in the centre of the tie for turning through.  I wanted a diagonal angle at the ends of my ties so I tapered in towards the ends of the ties to create this.

Trim corners and turn through.  Press well and top stitch around entire length of belt.

For the belt loops, I cut a strip of fabric measuring 1.5” wide by 20” long (ish).  Then I folded the fabric together right sides together along the long edge, and sewed it together with a ¼” seam allowance.  Turn the tube through ( a tube turner of safety pin is helpful for this), then press.  Edge stitch down both sides of the ties, then cut it into 5 pieces measuring 4” in length.  These will be your 5 belt loops.

 

One belt loop will be placed at the centre back, two loops will be placed next to both of the centre front darts, and then the last two loops will be evenly spaced on either side between the previous two points.

Place the loops at the top of the skirt, about ½” from the top edge.  Sew across the belt loops twice, once at the bottom and once just below the top.

Then fold the belt loop down towards the body of the skirt, tuck the raw edge under by ½” and top stitch down across the bottom.

Repeat for the other 4 belt loops.  Thread through your belt, tie and enjoy your new skirt!

Happy Sewing!

Dana xx

We are thrilled to see what you sew for yourself using the Bacall Bodysuit + Sophia Pencil Skirt patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, December 12, 2023.

Here are some links to the patterns: BACALL BODYSUIT | SOPHIA PENCIL SKIRT

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

Bacall Bodysuit Facebook Album | Sophia Pencil Skirt Facebook Album

Hale Half Zip – Easy Hacks

Get ready to elevate your sewing game with our “easy hacks” post for the Hale Half Zip pattern. We’re sharing three ingenious ways to take this pattern a little further! 

You’ll need one of these patterns to complete these brilliant sewing hacks:

Hale Half Zip – Adult Hourglass | Hale Half Zip – Adult V Figure | Hale Half Zip – Youth | Hale Half Zip – Bundle

NO ZIPPER HACK

Let’s be honest, not all of us like zippers.  When I teach sewing classes they are one of the things people are most fearful about sewing, so you’re not alone if you don’t like them.  Or, maybe you just don’t have any to hand and still want to sew up a Hale Half Zip for yourself?  Well, we’ve got you covered.

Now for this option you’re going to have to pick the hood, rather than the collar as the neckline finish, as the collar won’t work without a zip.  You could also draft a neckband to finish the neckline with instead of the hood, and I’ll cover that at the end, but for the main tutorial I will be using the hood.

First you will cut out all your pieces as normal, except the front yoke.  This is ‘cut x 2 mirrored’ in the tutorial, but we will be removing seam allowance and cutting on the fold.  To begin, we need to work out how much seam allowance to remove.  Now, the seam allowance used for attaching the zipper is 3/8″, like this.

However, don’t forget in the finished garment we have the width of a zipper to account for too, like this.

So, I will be taking off an extra 1/8″ to account for half the width of the zipper teeth.  That means our full seam allowance to remove will be 1/2″.  I simply mark it on the pattern piece and fold it over, that means you still have the full pattern piece to use again in the future if you wanted to.

Then cut your front yoke on the fold.

We assemble the garment now according to the tutorial instructions, but I like to leave the neckline to the end, so I did it in this order:

Front centre yoke to front sides

Front yoke to back yoke at shoulder seams.

Kanga pocket to front bottom.

Front yoke to front bottom.

Back yoke to back bottom.

Assemble sleeves. Attach to body of garment.

Side Seams.

Cuffs and waistband.

Then we start again with the neckline.  Sew the back curved seam of your main hood, right sides together.  Then repeat for your lining.

Sew the front chin curve for your main right sides together, then again for your lining.

Turn the lining right side out, and slip it inside your main.  These should now be right sides together.

Sew around the hood face opening to join the hoods together.  Clip your seam allowance if necessary, then turn right sides out and top stitch if you wish (it gives a great, professional finish and stops the hood slipping around).

Then quarter your neckline, and quarter your hood.  Turn the main garment inside out and drop the hood into the neckline right sides together, matching the quarter points.  The hood should fit nicely into the neckline.  Sew them together, and you’re done!

 

If you want to use a traditional neckband instead of the hood, then you can measure your neckline opening like this

Then calculate your neckband.  I used a ribbing and therefore used a calculation of 75%, but for a fabric with less stretch you could use 80 or 85%.

So, the neckline for my daughter’s age 10 measured 8.75″ across, x 2 for the full circumference is 17.5″.  Then multiply by 75% gives us 13″, plus 1/2″ seam allowance at either end gives us 14″.  I used a width of 2.5″ for a final neckband depth of 3/4″.  So my neckband is cut at 14 x 2.5″.

Sew the short ends together, press in half longways and then attach as you do the hood, by quartering both the neckband and the neckhole and sewing them together, matching the quarter points.

Give it a press, pop it on and show off to all your friends!

Happy sewing!

Dana xxx

 

CORDING

 

Adding some cording along the hood or along the top of the collar is simple and quick.

Mark where you would like your button hole or grommets.  Take into account the 1/2″ seam allowances and the zipper. I like to just press all my seamlines to easily see them.

Put little pieces of interfacing where the grommets or button holes will be.  You want the interfacing to be bigger than your grommet or button hole.

Put your buttonholes or grommets in on the main fabric piece only.

Sew up normally.  If you’re lining your hood or doing the collar option, you’ll need to sew a casing stitch.  Just a stitch that will hold your cording along the edge. It can be whatever width/seam allowance you like the look of as long as it’s wide enough to fit your cording and grommets/buttonholes inside.

Thread your cording through when finished.

 

Snap Placket Hack

If zippers intimidate you, consider a snap placket for your Hale Half Zip Pullover! It’s an easy hack that can be accomplished with the pattern pieces you already have.

Cut 2 zipper guards from your fabric – they are now opposite sides of your snap placket. I used a ripstop canvas for stability and looks. If you’re using a knit or any other woven, it is best to interface both pieces to ensure that your snaps are secure.

For this make, I chose to use the rounded end of one guard and the squared end of the other. Totally up to you what you choose!

Press both of your placket pieces with wrong sides together.

Open up and fold right sides together and stitch across one short end on both pieces.

Turn right sides out and topstitch along the folded edge, if you prefer.

I actually ripped out my topstitching after these pics because I didn’t like it!

Sew your collar pieces, right sides together, along the top edge of the collar.

Sew the collar main to the neckline of your bodice.

Line up one of your placket pieces with the raw edge of your bodice front and fold the collar lining over to sandwich the placket between the right sides of the collar main and collar lining.

Fold up the seam allowance of the collar lining.

Sew the length of the bodice front, securing the collar layers and placket.

Turn the collar right side out and topstitch the seam allowance down the front.

Secure the collar lining per pattern instructions.

Lay one side of the placket on top of the other – I stacked the right side on top of the left – and baste the bottom edge together.

At this point, you can decide to add your snaps or wait until the end of construction (like I did).

When marking for snaps, I like to line up the placket and push a pin through the layers. I use a fabric pen to mark the pin points on both sides of the placket.

Add your snaps and enjoy your new pullover!

Can’t wait to see what you make!

Rachel

Don’t miss out on the opportunity to create cozy, stylish half-zip sweaters and hoodies for yourself and your loved ones. The Hale Half Zip patterns are available and on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Friday, October 6, 2023.

Hale Half Zip – Adult Hourglass | Hale Half Zip – Adult V Figure | Hale Half Zip – Youth | Hale Half Zip – Bundle

As always, we’ve got more photos for you to use as inspiration! Head over to the Facebook group to browse our albums full of gorgeous photos, compliments of our tester team!

Adult Hourglass Album | Adult V Figure Album | Youth Album

Stay warm, stay stylish, and stay comfortable all season long! We can’t wait to see what you create for yourself!

Charleston Crossover :: Easy Hacks

Sometimes there are things that we want to show you how to do with our new pattern releases, that we just can’t figure out how to add to the main pattern without making it a mile long. So instead, we create these fun “easy hacks” blog posts, and help you take your pattern one step further.

Or in the case of this blog post, THREE steps further! 

Today we are going to show you:

  • How to add a lining (for those sheer fabrics in your stash).
  • How to add a ruffle neckline.
  • How to add a waistband and make a separate skirt.

HOW TO ADD A LINING

Don’t discount sheer fabrics when deciding which to use for the new Charleston Crossover! I’ve been saving this gorgeous (and spendy) silk jersey for just the right pattern and it was just a *touch* too sheer for my comfort.

No worries! Just add a lining! 

I lined the bodice and skirt using a slinky cupro that matched the feel of my silk jersey.

Here’s the how-to.

Cut a set of your front and back bodice and skirt pieces out of your lining. Your skirt lining will need to be a few inches shorter than your main fabric. I cut mine 3 inches shorter.

Sew your bodice main pieces and bodice lining pieces at the shoulder seams.

With right sides together, pin and sew your bodice lining and main together along the neckline. 

I added clear elastic to my seam because both of my fabrics have a lot of drape. You may find that your fabrics have enough recovery to skip the elastic.

Understitch your seam allowance to your lining.

From this point, assemble the bodice per the pattern instructions, treating the bodice main and lining as one piece. I highly recommend basting your seams before sewing them. You are handling several layers of fabric in the side seam.

Next, sew your skirt side seams together on both the main and the lining pieces.

You have options after this point. You can baste the skirt and lining along the waistline with wrong sides together or with lining right side to main wrong side. 

I chose to do the latter because I didn’t want my seams to rub against each other. If you prefer a cleaner look on the inside of your skirt, sew with wrong sides together.

Again, baste your skirt and lining together at the waistline and complete the construction of your dress per pattern instructions.

Another note of personal preference… I chose to serge the hemline of my lining and left it as is. I didn’t add a proper hem. It seemed unnecessary! 

Enjoy your pretty new dress! It requires a lot of twirling when you wear it!

HOW TO ADD A RUFFLE NECKLINE

This pattern just calls for adding a little something extra to the neckline!

Step 1: Cut ruffle piece. I cut my ruffle at 2.75″ tall by 4x the binding piece. I wanted less seams, so I cut 2 long strips at 2x the width of the neck binding strip.

Step 2: Gather your ruffle. 

Step 3: Sew shoulder seams of bodice, then find quarter points.

Step 4: Find the quarter points on your ruffle AND your bodice neckline. Pin/clip gathered ruffle to front neckline, wrong side of ruffle to right side of bodice. Add a basting stitch if you’d like. Pin/clip ruffle 1/2″ away from the edge of the bodice on the side that will face out.

Step 5:  Pin/Clip binding piece right sides to right sides on top of the gathered ruffle, and sew.

Step 6: Topstitch binding, and construct the rest of your top/dress as normal.

What you end up with is an incredibly adorable (ruffle added) Charleston Crossover!

Thanks for sharing with us Jessica!

HOW TO ADD A WAISTBAND + MAKE A SKIRT

Have you been eyeballing the skirt from the Charleston Crossover but want it on it’s own, as a separate piece? Same. SAMEEEEEE.

Well let me tell you: it’s super easy to make happen.

Simply follow the skirt construction portion of the Charleston Crossover tutorial. Completely omit the bodice, as we won’t need it for this sewing project. What we will need is a waistband…so here’s a quick cut chart for that.

The measurements below are included as LENGTH x WIDTH. (Width = stretch of fabric) Inches are rounded to the nearest .25, Centimeters are rounded to nearest .1

Assemble skirt as instructed in Charleston Crossover tutorial.

Fold waistband in half, right sides together, matching along short side.

Stitch along short side, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband piece, with right sides together, creating loop.

Mark quarter points on waistband and skirt.

Match quarter points on waistband and skirt. 

**Waistband is slightly smaller than skirt opening. You’ll need to stretch waistband to fit when sewing.

Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband up, away from skirt. Steam + press.

Wear the heck out of your new skirt because it’s the cutest!

We hope you love the easy hacks we provided, and are thrilled to see what you sew for yourself using the Charleston Crossover pattern! It is available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, May 24, 2023.

Charleston Crossover

Brizo and Circe Swimsuit Simple Hacks

We always have fun showing off a few ways to modify our new patterns to give you even more options! Here are some quick and simple hacks to the new Circe Swim Top and Brizo Bikini Bottoms!

CIRCE-ADDING THICKER UNDERBUST ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more underbust support, here is the hack for you.  Since this add a lot more support and stability, you might consider sizing up as it will feel much tighter wrapping around you that the normal sizing. Cut and assemble your top until the step where you stitch elastic into the bottom edge.

You’re going to not attach elastic along the back and just an inch or two into the front bodice. Just baste or stitch together with no elastic on this center section.

We’re going to cut our thicker swim elastic (I have 3/4″ here) from the front wrap section (the top corner) to the bottom side seam of the bodice, around the back and to the opposite side.

Making sure to match center backs, we’re going to pin the elastic to the seam allowance along the section we left with no elastic.

Stitch elastic to the seam allowance along this section. Make sure to use a stretch stitch. After stitching the center back section, flip the seam allowance like it will be once the top is flipped right sides out. Pin end of the elastic to the seam allowance at the top corner of the bodice. Stitch end of elastic to the seam allowance here.

Repeat on opposite side.

Continue the rest of the top as the tutorial instructs. Flipping rights side out, closing side seam hole and optional top-stitching.

Enjoy the extra support and stability.

 

 

CIRCE- THICKER STRAP ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more support on the shoulder straps, but love the look of the thin strap option…  here is perfect hack for you! You can up the elastic in thin strap easily.  Here I’m using 3/4″ swim elastic instead of the 1/4″, but you can use whatever width you’d like.  Remember, this will make the straps feel tighter, so you may need to slightly adjust the length.

Do a little math… whatever width you choose add double the difference from the 1/4″ to the strap pieces.  I used 3/4″, which is 1/2″ wider than the original. So, I added 1″ to the strap width pieces.

You will also need to add a little width to pickups on the main front bodice pieces.  You will add the width split on each side of the pick up.  So, I needed to add 1/2″ total to my pick up width.  I added 1/4″ on each side of the pick up.

Sew up the Circe just like the tutorial has you sew up the thin strap option and enjoy your thicker straps 🙂

CIRCE- RING HACK

Sew up your Circe all normally, but grab a gate ring and have a new, fun way to wear your top!

CIRCE- CLASP HACK

Want a different look instead of the back waist ties? Try adding a swimsuit clasp. For this hack, you will need to begin by finding your center back measurement. Measure from the side seam to the center of your back either using a tape measure around your back and splitting the measurement in half, or using the tie pattern piece pinned to mark the center back. Mark this new line on the tie pattern and cut four shorter ties (2 lining and 2 main) from the new piece. (For this hack, I am using the thick tie option. If you are using the thin ties, your pieces will not need much modifying and you may want to use a smaller clasp.)

Follow the sewing tutorial as written, except I recommend sewing the last two inches of the tie with your sewing machine and leaving off the elastic. This will help reduce bulk and allow you to easily add your swim clasp. Once you get to the step of basting your ties closed, it is a great time to turn it right side out and check the fit. You may find you need to shorten your ties to get the fit you like. Make any needed adjustments. You can see here I modified the thick tie to better fit my 1 inch swim clasp. I tapered down the tie so that it would fit into the clasp without too much gathering of the fabric.

Add your swim clasp by taking one tie and sliding the end of the tie through the closed portion of the clasp. Make sure the hook is pointed down. Wrap the fabric around the clasp towards the back of the suit. The fabric may gather slightly to fit. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. Next, create the loop portion by taking the opposite tie and folding the suit back on itself. You need to create a small tube for the clasp to enter. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. You want this line about 1/2 inch from the edge. It needs to be large enough for the clasp to fit into, but not so large that the clasp shifts too much with wear. Try the suit on and check the placement of the clasp.  Make any needed changes. Then stitch closely to the clasp with a stretch stitch and on the opposite tie to create the loop.

And now you have a swim top with a clasp closure.

 

 

SOLID FRONT BRIZO BOTTOM

Don’t have coordinating fabrics for your Brizo Bikini Bottom? Just grab the full lining front piece on either the high rise or the v rise and sew them up with a solid front!

Uptown Joggers- Simple Hacks

We just love showing off simple ways to add even more options to our already full patterns!

On our new Uptown Joggers you can create a more straight leg, ankle length pant by simple leaving off the cuffs. Here are some our beautiful tester Joelle did just like this!

You can also use the cargo top tabs on the back pockets too! Here I am showing off this look with just one pocket and our gorgeous tester Teri did both sides in this style.  Simply add the top tab above the back pocket following the same instructions for the cargo pocket.  We both happen to use the shorts length, but you can of course do this hack with the pant length as well.

Have fun hacking along with us! Don’t forget to share your makes with us.

 

Notch Top & Dress- Easy Hacks

We love sharing some simple hacks to help extend the versatility of our patterns even more! Here are two for the new Notch Top & Dress we hope you enjoy.

ADDING LENGTH TO CROP::

Loving the new Notch Top & Dress, but which the crop option was just a bit longer? I got ya 😉 Here is a super quick and easy hack to make more of a top length than a shorter crop.

I only added about 1″ to mine, but you can add however much you’d prefer.  Remember though is it fitted to the natural waist where you are your smallest, so if you’re lengthening quite a bit you might also want to grade out to a bigger size at the bottom where you’re adding.  This way it wont be too tight on your high hips (if you’re going that long).

You’ll cut out the bodice just as you would normally.  I did the tank top option here, so no sleeves…but you would cut those and sew them the same as normal as well.

We will start making our hack changing by cutting out JUST the main fabric waistband pieces– adding the length you’d like.

 

Sew up the bodice per the tutorial as normal. When you get to the waistband we will just be stitching on the one layer.  Still add in that underbust elastic for adults.

Last, just hem up the bottom edge of the waistband.

Ta-da… so quick and simple! I love this everyday top and know it will be in high rotation! I can’t wait to see yours!

Want to see this hack being sewn up in action? Here is a quick video of it too!

MATERNITY ::

It can be somewhat challenging to find a great dress that works for maternity, but we’re here to show you a super simple change to the Notch Top & Dress that will give you a lovely maternity friendly dress.

Simple skip the waistband completely (don’t skip the elastic in that seam though) and add the missing length to your skirt pieces. Attach the skirt straight to the bodice pieces for an empire style dress perfect for a bump.

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