P4P University Archives - Page 5 of 5

How to Measure Yourself

February 8, 2016

One of the most important things in sewing for yourself is to get accurate measurements! It is also much harder than it sounds. I had my sister take a few quick pictures of me measuring so I could explain and give a few tips.

I took my pictures in a tight tank. I recommend taking your measurements in a thin/tight shirt or even just in the bra you are going to normally wear. (This is especially important if you are going to be making a more formal garment and plan on wearing a different bra for it- think strapless, push up, etc).

I HIGHLY recommend measuring in front of a mirror! This helps you really see where you are measuring and if you are holding it evenly around your body. It can mean a big difference!

On all measurements breath normally! Most people want to take a big breathe in and then take them— no need! Patterns are drafted with ease to breathe and move normally 🙂 So breathe in and out, then measure. You want to hold the tape snug to your body, but not squeezing.

Here are some common measurements needed for a pattern:

Bust— Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust. You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

Over Bust– This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

Under Bust– This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

High Hip– This is taken around your hip bones (this is where I like to wear my pants 😉 and most youth patterns are drafted to hit)

Hip– This is a deceiving name. It is measured around your fullest/biggest part, which is usually your booty. Most definitely my booty is my biggest part 😉 Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible (a mirror really helps on this one!)

Waist– This is your natural waistline. Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants). It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section. if you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section. Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on your smallest part.

This is your natural waist 🙂

Side Waist Length– Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist. This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist like the Sweetheart Dress or Boundless Knit Dress. Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit. If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage 😉

You can see here mine is about 8.75″. For reference the avg is 8″. I’m 5’10” :).

*Updated* I had a few more questions about the side waist length. So I’ve added a couple more pictures— THIS is how much I LOVE my group, I’m willing to put up pictures in my sports bra 4 months after I had a baby!!!! They are cropped very well 😉

Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm. Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

Thigh- Taken around thigh close to crotch, keeping the measuring tape flat horizontally around.

Total Crotch Length- Taken from back center natural waist, under booty, through legs, and up to center front natural waist. You will want the tape pulled taut. The easiest way I think is to tape the center back and then pull through front and read at the front. These are measured with tight, high waisted yoga pants here:

Inseam- Taken from crotch to where you’d like hem of pants. Notice the close up of my ankle here. The difference between ankle height (for skinny leg options like Peg Legs and SOS pants) and a floor length is 3″ on me! That’s a big difference!

Arm length-from armpit to hem of shirt. Most P4P patterns are meant to hit at the base of thumb, so past the wrist. It’s just a personal preference of mine– so if you prefer the traditional wrist length here is where you’d want to measure against the finished measurement in the pattern.

Finished lengths- I will use “inside shoulder to hem” on some shirts and “armpit to hem” on others depending on which is easiest to measure on that particular pattern. Here are both:

Take your time measuring yourself to ensure great fit! It will make a big difference in how happy you are with the outcome!

P4P Shirt fits Explained

December 13, 2015

I get asked a lot how the different P4P shirt pattterns compare fit wise.

So to help those visual people (most of us sewing/creative types are!), I created a little line drawing with the hourglass figure in each shirt.

Remember, P4P is designed for an hourglass figure; so if you have a different body type you will have a different fit unless you follow your measurements and grade between the sizes you are.

Also, “hips” are the widest part of you- usually your booty. So while looking at the line drawings, remember that the widest part is really the booty!

Here is the quick line drawing:

And for more quick overview here I am in every P4P shirt. I was a solid medium at the time of all pictures unless noted.

Layer Me Up: Tight fit through arms and body meant to be layered under other garments. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: Knits with lots of stretch (70% more are my favorite) cotton spandex, rayon spandex, and liverpool knit.

Cross my Heart Cami: Fitted through bust and a closefit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Cotton spandex, rayon spandex, jerseys, poly blends, ity, brushed poly and ribbed knit all work well.

The Basic Tee: Fitted through bust and a semi-fit through waist and close at hips. This is a small/medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, tri-blends, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity, ribbed knit, sweater knits all work well.

Essential Tank: Fitted through bust and a close semi-fit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity and ribbed knit all work well.

Women’s Henley: Fitted through bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips. (I don’t have many of these since it was drafted and released when I was pregnant 🙂 I made a medium here, but my bust and waist were bigger right after baby girl arrived!)

Favorite Fabrics: thermals, medium weight sweater knits, cotton jerseys, and rayon spandex.

Boyfriend V Neck: Semi-fitted through bust, waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like to use a cotton jersey, interlock, medium weight sweater knit for a more fitted look. For a looser/slub feel I go for rayon spandex.

Slim Fit Raglan: Fitted at bust and arms, semi-fitted at waist and hips.

Favorite Fabrics: Medium weight sweater knit, rayon spandex blends, cotton spandex, stretch french terry, slub jersey.

Women’s Raglan: Loose fit through bust and waist, semi-fitted at hips- straight cut. Loose on arms. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: More stable knits like french terry, sweatshirt, fleece, interlock, and ponte roma.

(PS- I have a light pink undershirt under the lace one! I didn’t realize that was a mistake until after the pictures! lol)

Favorite Tee: this is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hip. The side vent hem can give you even more relaxed fit through hip.

Favorite Fabics: You have a pretty wide range of knits you can use on this shirt. I prefer a flowly, drapey knit for the curved hem option like rayon spandex, modal, poly jerseys, ITY. For the banded hem option I love something with a little more structure like a rayon french terry and poly jerseys. The side vent hem can use either of these and look great. For the dress length I prefer something more structured again like double brushed poly, cotton spandex, rayon french terry.

Sweet Tee: this is a slimmed dolman with very small “bat wings” under the arms. It is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits, although it has very small “bat wings” I still strongly prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used tissue jersey, slub jersey, light and medium weight sweater knits, and rayon spandex for my favorites.

Tulip Tee: this is a boxy, relaxed fit dolman. Semi-fitted at bust and hip, but a straighter cut through waist. Although it’s not straight, it is still very loose through waist. The plain option will feel and fit tighter at the waist and hip than the tulip option, which will naturally swing open for a looser feel.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits. I prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used mostly rayon/modal/ blends for mine personally. I love it in a soft sweater knit for fall/winter as well. You could use a slub knit, poly blend, triblend, ITY all as well.

Pumpkin Spice Dolman: oversized/loose fit through upper arms, bust and waist. Semi-fitted on hips. Tight fit on lower arms. (Medium in the navy/grey and Large in the others- I hit those measurements at the time of sewing/pictures :))

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits (both medium and lighter work), thinner slub jerseys, french terry with rayon in the blend, and ity.

Free Spirit Tank: Fitted at bust, drastic a-line out to give loose fit through waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good stretch and drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits and thinner slub jersey.

Sporty Piko: A very loose, straight cut from the short sleeve juncture. It is loose throughout the body with relaxed sleeves as well.

Favorite Fabrics: It really depends on the look you’re wanting for this one! I love a french terry for the hoodie options, but for an everyday tee it must have a very soft drape. You can use various fabrics depending on how boxy you want the shirt to appear- the more stable the fabric the boxier it will look worn.

Brunch Blouse: Fitted at bust, curves in only a touch at waist, loose on hips.

Favorite Fabrics: Rayon challis, crepe, anything with a softer drape.

Everyday Elegance: Loose fit through bust and waist- straight cut to hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabrics with lots of drape for this one like peach skin, chiffon, rayon challis.

Tips and Tricks of Up-cycling

December 2, 2015

I love to up-cycle! With a little boy I can find boyish knits, stripes and even character prints so much easier and more affordable buying a men’s T-shirt then the $30/yd euro knit… Which I’m constantly drooling over! I also love the heathered T-shirt knit, which is harder to find in a fabric store and very easily found in RTW (Ready to wear). I love to use my husband and my old shirts as well… It’s even more special handmade with an already sentimental shirt! So here are some tips and tricks I’ve learned… 1- Buy bigger… Why not? If an XS and XXXL are the same price get more fabric 🙂 2- If it has a picture on it make sure it will fit on your smaller size you are creating. This one can be difficult if you’re buying large men’s shirts BC they are proportionally much bigger pictures/words/designs on the chest. Here is one I BARELY SQUEEZED on his little chest, but then when it is on some wraps around to the sides, so really I should’ve waited until he was a few sizes bigger!

3- Use the hem! I don’t have a cover stitch machine… Yet 🙂 and although I love my double needle using the existing hem saves time and looks nice and professional already! All you have to do is account for the hem- Most my patterns are 1″ so here I am cutting with my pattern piece 1″ below my fabric to make up for the fact that I will not be turning up and hemming.

4- Cut you RTW items down the seams, this give you nice flat pieces to last your pattern pieces out on. If there isn’t a side seam, then I don’t cut… but anywhere there are seams I go ahead and cut because you will not be able to use the area. I also cut the sleeves, again along the seam and use them if I can! Here is a shirt and shorts cut and ready to use:

5- If you’re using a shirt with a design, fold with the DESIGN centered… You’d think RTW is all centered nicely on that shirt… Until you fold it at the side seams and realize it’s not!! Often they’re off centered! 6- If you don’t have ribbed knit to match for the neckline you can use theirs…especially if you have a much larger size (men’s xxl down to a toddler size). Here are a couple of some up-cycles I’ve done: Patterns for Pirates Buccaneer BBall Shorts:

Matey Muscle Tank:

Wingman Shirt: The grey was from a heathered grey t-shirt… the Batman logo was appliqued on my sewing machine 🙂

Deep Sea V-Neck:

Cole’s Creations ‘Buttercup Dress:

Women’s Raglan:

First Time User Tips

October 23, 2015

Are you using a P4P pattern for the very first time? I’m so excited for you to try out one of my pdf sewing patterns! Here are a few tips if you are brand new to sewing a P4P pattern, or to sewing from a pattern in general.

*Buying from the site- you will receive an email with a download link after payment is processed (check JUNK mail) and you can also log back into the site to download any purchased patterns anytime! Our freebie patterns downloads expire in 30 days once purchased, but fear not! You can add them to cart and “buy” them as many times as you want.

Our patterns include various formats so be sure to open the correct one.

Letter – used mainly in the USA, must be printed on letter size paper (8.5″ by 11″)

A4 – used outside of USA, must be printed on A4 size paper (8.25″ by 11.75″)

A0 – used to print on 36″ wide paper, usually at copy shops.

Projector – this new style of paperless/printless way of cutting the fabric pieces requires a special set up. I would not recommend this for beginners. Only the newest P4P patterns include projector files.

#1: Read the tutorial thoroughly before beginning. Before you start envisioning fabric selection and thinking about what size, you need to sit and read! There is A LOT of info in the first few pages of a P4P pattern. Here are some highlights in those first few pages:

*Printing instructions- You MUST open and print from ADOBE PDF viewer, not the app, not another PDF program! This will ensure the correct scaling! I advise only printing the pattern pieces (these are listed on the first page in the tutorial) to save paper and ink-you can read the tutorial instructions on a computer, laptop, tablet, smart phone-whatever you have available! You will want to print with scaling set to “none” or custom “100%”. Carefully measure the 1×1 inch square to ensure that the pattern is printed in the correct scale (I always advise to only print the first page with the measuring inch first to test, then when you are sure it’s correct print the other pages). Our newer patterns include a 2″x2″ and a 4cm x 4cm square instead of the 1″ one.

Here is a shot of what your adobe printing settings should look like before you print: Custom scale: 100% and about the preview it should say 100%

Here is a shot of the printed page with a correct 1×1 inch square:

One of the most common printing mistakes is to have the “fit to page” option clicked. Here is a shot of “fit to page” INCORRECT printing. This will result in a pattern that is much smaller then intended!

If you look, you will see an outline around the entire page about 1/8″ that should not be there. The 1×1 inch square will also measure slightly smaller.

*Piecing the pattern pieces together- I have a quick video putting the “no trim pages” together here: (you must be a member of the P4P FB group to view) Video Link

*Choosing your size- I have a size chart both in the listing pictures and in the first few pages of the tutorial. Carefully measure yourself and find the size that your measurements correlate to. Chest-fullest part around your bust, Waist-where you naturally bend to the side, High Hip-around your hip bones, Hip-around the fullest part of bottom/booty. I only add the measurements that are important for that particular pattern.

Here is a blog post about measuring yourself.

If your measurements put you in several sizes then you can mash/blend sizes between your measurements to create the perfect fit (this is why sewing is so great! Custom fit and size for your particular body type). Our P4P University blog series includes a very helpful post about grading. You can read the Grading blog here.
Using the “Finished Measurements”- You can flat measure other garments that are well fitting and compare, or compare to your measurements. You should be able to know exactly how much you need to add or take off for the perfect length before sewing up!
LAYERS – once you chose your size(s) you can print just the needed one(s) by selecting it/them on the left side of the pdf file. Simply use the cursor to click/unclick the little “eye” located on the left of each size.
I also include the height my patterns are drafted for above the size chart (5’5″). If you are shorter or taller you will need to adjust for your height. I include a link right below the size chart to this post explaining how I prefer to add/take length for petite and tall adjustments: Petite and Tall Adjustment Blog Post
Do not choose your size based on what you buy in ready to wear/store bought clothing. Store sizing varies extremely from store to store. Just choose based on your current measurements!
Read the description of fit carefully (located under the line drawing in the tutorial).
Look through the pattern album in the group! Yes, I have an album for almost every single pattern filled with A TON of pictures of every size and option for everyone to look through to see the intended fit of the pattern. You can see where it is fitted, loose, and how it looks on a variety of sizes and body types. Most pictures are also labeled with their size and their fabric choose to help even more! You can view the albums both mobile and on a desktop! Just go to the P4P FB Group and click “view group info”. From there you can click “pictures” and go to “albums”. Scroll through for the particular patterns you’re looking for! 🙂
Mobile View:

Desktop View:

*Choosing fabric- One of the most IMPORTANT parts of following a pattern is to use fabric that is suggested by the designer. If you don’t you will not have the intended look that is shown on the cover and listing pictures. The wrong fabric can mean a loose fit turns snug, a flowy fit turns tent-like, and so on.

Knit fabrics– I often give the percent of stretch knit fabrics should have for fitted patterns. Here is a quick link to my sister’s blog with a video on how to find the percentage of stretch: Megan’s Blog Post
Different fabric = Different look and fit— if you do not follow the suggested types of fabric you have to be prepared for the garment to not look and fit how it is intended and showed in the pattern listing pictures. I make sure that all my testers follow those suggestions, so all the tester pictures are going to show the intended fit and look. If you are unsure, read our Different Fabric, Different Fit before you decide.
Buying online- I love to buy online. In fact, I pretty much get fabric from an online source or scramble to “borrow” some from my Mama’s large stash ;). I hardly ever make it to a brick and mortar store! BUT, there seems to be an endless amount of fabric types to learn as a beginner seamstress and online shopping can be very difficult to navigate. I always suggest buying from a smaller shop that you can message questions to! Being able to ask how thick/thin, percentage of stretch and even if it would be good for a certain type of garment is such a nice bonus to supporting a smaller shop!
- There are a lot of shops offering non custom fabric online as well as an abundance of custom knit designers/hosts FB that are smaller businesses (but be weary-sadly there are many that have been scammed by these groups, so look for well established custom groups). I love destash fb pages where you can buy from other sewists, but often you’re buying from someone who doesn’t know the full description of the fabric, so I don’t recommend this for beginners.
- Stick to searching the exact recommended fabrics until you are confident with all the different kinds of fabrics out there.
- We also offer a monthly subscription where you can receive a 2 yard piece of fabric, hand selected by our team. Get all the details about Fabric for Pirates here.
Fabric Requirements- I list fabric requirements on the last listing picture under the size chart as well as the first few pages of the tutorial. I often break up the fabric requirements into different options and different parts of the garment. Example: Relaxed Raglan I list main body 7/8yd and long sleeves 7/8 yd, this means you will need 7/8 for the main body and an ADDITIONAL 7/8 for the sleeves.
- As described in the tutorial, the fabric requirements do not include extra for fabric being cut off grain, shrinkage after prewashing (I ALWAYS recommend pre-washing fabric before cutting!), or to match any kind of patterned fabric/directional fabrics.
- I recommend buying a little more to account for these things 🙂

*Looking for more inspiration- If you have looked through the listing pictures, album pictures in the FB group and still want to see more you can use the search bar in the Facebook group. with our hashtags to help! Some pictures are tagged with hashtag/pattern name… here are a few for examples: #peglegs #carefreecardigan #cptmackcardigan… using the hashtag will help pull up pictures and not posts about the pattern 🙂

Now we’re finally ready to begin!

*Cutting fabric- It is important to cut your pieces along the grainline of the fabric. Grainline is easily found parallel along the selvage of the fabric (the sides that are not cut by the store). You want to match your selvage/grainline to the grainline arrow on the pattern piece. Making sure this is straight is important! If it is cut off grain/not straight it will hang not straight! Have you ever had a pant leg/sleeve/shirt always twisting while you wear it? That is because it was cut off grain! It’s really annoying! So take your time matching the grainline on both woven and knit fabrics.

*Cut chart- I include a cut chart for any rectangle pieces. The measurements for the cut chart are located in the first few pages of the tutorial and on the pattern pieces. This way you can cut your rectangle pieces without having to look up the tutorial :). Our newer patterns include rectangle pattern piece as well. Some sewists prefer to have everything printed so now you can chose.

I prefer to use my cutting mat, quilters ruler and rotary cutter for cutting rectangle pieces. If it has a longer measurement I prefer to fold in half and cut on the fold for ease as well. Again, make sure you are keeping your grainline straight.

*Direction of Stretch- I also include a direction of stretch arrow on all pattern pieces for knit garments. It is always perpendicular to the grainline. Even with 4 way stretch fabric the greatest amount of stretch will run horizontally on your fabric. If it is on the fold, fold your fabric selvage (the part not cut by the store) towards the opposite selvage as wide as your piece and place on fold.

*Using a Stretch Stitch for Knit Garments- Since most of my patterns are for knit/stretch fabric I thought I would add available stretch stitches you can use. I use a serger in the tutorial, this is a great machine stitch for stretch fabrics if you own one. Basic sewing machine stitches that also work are

a) triple stitch

b) lightening stitch

c)honeycomb stitch

d) overlock stitch

e) stretch overlock stitch-this is my personal favorite usually-

f) double overlock stitch

If you read your manual they will list the stretch stitches your machine have. If you don’t have or can’t find your manual you can always google for your manual! It is very valuable to have! 🙂

I hope these tips are helpful for first time users! You can always post other questions to the P4P FB group and don’t forget to share your final garment!

Tips on sewing with silky fabrics

July 24, 2015

I have two patterns that I suggest using a lightweight woven with a very soft drape (Everyday Elegance Top and the Summer Cover Up). I often get asked for “tips and tricks” to working with this kinds of fabrics! So, here is a compiled list of a few tips I have for working with slippery wovens like chiffon, peach skin, rayon, satin, challis, ect.

I think the most difficult part of sewing something up in this fabric is the cutting. I almost always use pattern weights like these:

But with any kind of slippery fabric they’re a MUST! If you don’t have any, use any kind of paper weight, heavy object that isn’t too tall. The silver paper weights are from this Etsy Shop if you’re looking to buy. She has several options in her shop, I prefer the shorter version to be able to get my scissors closer to them! The pink were hand-me-downs from my mama <3.

Some specialty wovens are harder then others– if you’re cutting anything that needs to be precise (collar piece) then I recommend only cutting ONE layer at a time. With something as loose and forgiving as the kimono though, I don’t personally bother with it. 🙂

So, lets get started sewing! I recommend using a nice, new, sharp needle for these.

I also like to tighten my stitch length down one notch to keep away from puckers.

When sewing my BIGGEST TIP is to not OVERWORK the fabric. Although it is a non-stretch woven they will get “wonky” and pull out of shape if you do. Don’t pull or “man-handle” the fabric to make anything match! If your pieces aren’t lining up perfectly it is almost always a cutting mistake (remember I said that was the most difficult part!).

The good thing is most clothing made from these drapey fabrics are loose fitting and forgiving :). Trim and let it go 😉

After I sew, I PRESS. It takes a little more time, but it makes your end product much more professional.

French seams:

I had a lot of questions about using french seams. I don’t tend to care what the inside of my clothes look like a TON. But for nicer items in specialty wovens french seams would be nice. Here is my quick how to:

You will place your pieces WRONG side together and make the first stitch. For my patterns with 1/2″ seam allowances I do the first stitch at 1/4″. Then trim it to 1/8″. I press the seam on both the wrong and right sides of the garment flat, then fold at the seam and press again.

Now with RIGHT sides together and first seam pressed inside stitch again at 1/4″ from fold/seamline. This should enclose your raw edge from the first seam allowance and put you at your 1/2″ seam allowance total for the seam.

Again press from wrong and right sides of garment. I tend to always press to the back. You can top-stitch here if you prefer. I do lengthen my stitch length back out to 3 for top-stitching. Press again 🙂 Do you see an important trend in this? lol!

Hemming:

My prefered way to hem is to serge the edge—- I loosen my tension a tad to fight the puckering.

Then I press the serged edge over twice for a nice even narrow hem. Okay, most the time I don’t press…but you SHOULD press, I can hear my mom telling me to take my time and press every time I don’t 😉

Now I DO press after EVERY TIME! I see a lot of seamstresses complain their hems are “wonky” on specialty wovens, two things cause this- over working your fabric/pulling it as you sew and not pressing! A good press after can really change the way your hem looks!

I got asked to show how to hem without a serger; so here is how I hemmed without a serger. I pressed WITH LOTS OF STARTCH (don’t be scared to use some or lots 😉 ) a 1/2″ to wrong side.

Then I opened the 1/2″ hem and folded the raw edge to the fold line. This creates a 1/4″ narrow hem fold. Press again.

Tada! You can sew with specialty wovens! The biggest tips are: cut carefully, don’t pull your fabric as you sew and press, press and press again 🙂

Tips and Tricks on How to Up-Cycle Jeans/Denim

June 13, 2015

Making jeans can be a little intimidating for some… and we’ve already had a post here about making jeans look more like store bought jeans with details like top-stitching thread and distressing.

But, a really easy way to get your jeans looking professional is to use an old pair that an adult is throwing/giving away! This means a lot less work for you distressing and top-stitching if you’re smart about laying out your pattern pieces! So here it goes…my tips on using pre-existing jeans:

1- Making a few cuts along the seams can really make cutting your pieces much easier! I like to cut along the inside legs/crotch, cut off the waistband and beltloops, and the back pockets.

2- Be cautious about distressed/washed jeans and laying out your pattern pieces… meaning, if your jeans have a very obvious fade/wash/distress pattern on them then you need to make sure you like where it will be placed and that it will match when you sew up your jeans. For this pair, I wanted the distressed area of the original jeans, so I laid my patterns around that. Notice that my two pieces are very close to the same area horizontally, and that the back yoke is placed above the back piece. All of this will ensure that the distressing and wash look natural on my finished jeans.

You can also use the original hem line if you prefer to get that instead. Remember to account for hem allowance. I did that with this pair, because my jeans didn’t have a very noticeable distressing.

Use the back pockets when cutting your new pockets, Remember to account for the hem allowance at the top.

If you’d like to use the waistband and belt loops you can…. but warning, unpicking those belt loop stiches is not fun 😉

If you pattern calls for elastic in the waistband, like my Cpt. Comfort Jeans, then you will have to cut a slit on the wrong side of the waistband to slip your elastic through- I just use a wide zigzag to mend the slit after (I hide the zigzag stitches behind a belt loop!). Make sure when overlapping that you line up your jeans button and button hole, you can see here on mine they overlapped much more then the pattern called for. Then you will tack down the bottom of the belt loops 🙂

3- Now that you have your pieces cut you will continue to sew them just like the pattern calls for matching the store bought top-stitching thread as best you can. And although they have a wash and distressing, I STILL distress along the way! That way my finished jeans will have the distressing where store bought jeans do, like along pocket lines.

Now you have a great fitting (no plumbers crack!) pair of jeans that cost you nothing but the thread and time <3 and plus they look amazing!

How to Sew “ready to wear” looking Jeans/Denim

June 13, 2015

Jeans can be an intimidating sewing task, but they really aren’t that difficult and it is so great to have well fitting jeans for you or your little ones! No more plumbers crack when bending down!!!!! 😉

With my recent release of the Cpt. Comfort Jeans I wanted to post about how to distress your new denim to look more like ready to wear jeans! I personally LOVE the distressed look! Although a super clean dark denim can look nice as a “dressy” pair of jeans like here:

But for everyday, I just love the little distressed look… something about looking like Daddy gets me every time with my little guy!

So, lets get started on those great store bought look jeans!

You really MUST use a top-stitching thread for all your top-stiching if you want store bought look… I scoffed at my Mom the first time she told me it was a must… BUT she was right, like always!!

You will use this heavier/thicker weight top-stitching thread in the top only and for top-stitching only. You will use regular thread in the bobbin and for all seams sewing the jeans together– yep, you have to rethread a lot ;). But it is absolutely worth it if you want ready to wear looking jeans! I promise!

You will also NEED a bigger needle designed for heavy weight fabric like denim or you will be breaking needles on those thick belt loops!… here is a single and double needle:

Now, I only have one machine, so there is A LOT of switching threads and needles if I use the double needle. So, I will often just sew two lines with my single needle instead of switching to my double needle 😉

Now for the distressing, you will need some sandpaper! To be honest, I’m not sure the BEST kind of sandpaper to use… I asked my husband if he had some and used whatever he handed me 😉 Here is a shot of the kind I happen to use!

The trick to distressing your denim is to do at WHILE you’re sewing the jeans! If you try to do it before it’s hard to gauge where the distressing needs to be. If you do if after you’ve top-stitched them then you will be breaking your top-stitching threads (ask me how I know that one 😉 ) see left top pocket with it’s broken threads :/ oops!

So, I suggest sewing the jeans together with your normal thread, then distressing with sandpaper before you top-stitch. Here is my patch pocket sewn, turned right sides out, and distressed along the edges (and any other places I fancied at the moment). Then I top-stitched.

Some areas are harder to distress before topstitching like back pockets, belt loops, any piece that you are top-stitching closed or onto the jean. But I still follow the same steps. I just fold and press, distress, then top-stitch onto the back piece.

So have fun with a little distressing or A LOT! lol! I like a lot 😉 I end up with a mound of blue fuzz all my sewing room by the time I’m done!

Last is the button! I love to use “real” jeans buttons- and honestly, I always have been lucky enough to take them from my loving mother’s stash! But they are very easy to put on, just line up the two parts and hammer away! Yep, you’ll have sandpaper and a hammer in your sewing room for jeans!!

I’ve always used snaps, which are very common on ready to wear for younger children 🙂

How to do a Full Booty Adjustment

June 13, 2015

n my post about the Greenstyle Taylor Shorts I made myself here … I mentioned I did a “full butt adjustment”.. well because I have a FULL butt 😉

Well apparently the apple didn’t fall far from the tree… because when I went to measure my LO for some cute Winter Wear Aviator pants, I shared about them here in this post … his measurements all hit a size 2… but THAT BUM was a size 5! UH-OH! ha ha ha ha… so I flat measured the bum area to see how much ease the pattern had… I decided he did need more room then the size 3 had… so I went to work doing a full butt adjustment for my not quite 2 year old…I thought kids were easier to sew for?????

I had lots of inquires about a more detailed blog post, so I thought I would share his… it is the same on any size pattern 🙂

It is a really quick and simple adjustment!

Take your back piece and splice it across where the roundest part of their/your booty is. usually about mid rise on younger/athletic builds 🙂 You will want to leave the seam allowance! Here is a picture of his:

Now when you go to cut, you will spread out the back rise however much you need to add for the bum… I added about 1/2″ to my LO’s after flat measuring and comparing to his measurements.

Then you will need to “true up” the sides… since you’re adding length into the rise it wont match perfectly anymore, neither will the outer leg seam… Here is where you can customize your fit even more…

For my Little Guy who still has a baby figure I didn’t want to loose ANY width on the waist or high hip… so when I “trued up” the outer leg I took the outer edge and added slightly straightening the line up.

When I adjust for myself, I have a small high hip and waist… so I don’t mind taking the inner angle and loosing some width up there.

(Looking back I should’ve taken another picture with a chalk line describing these… I will add those when I need to adjust a pattern for myself, or my little one!!)

I hope this helps those blessed with big bums! 😉

P4P University: Petite and Tall Fitting Adjustments

June 13, 2015

So… I’m tall… I mean… I’m TALLLLL 🙂

5’10” no shoes ha ha ha See me towering over my tiny mom?

It makes finding RTW clothes a CHALLENGE to say the least… yes, I can pay an arm and a leg for “talls” but I want young trendy clothes!! So making my wardrobe is so rewarding for me!

I’ve already posted tips for blending sizes for children’s clothing here but this method doesn’t work well for adult patterns because all of the sizes are made to fit an average height adult, rather than differing heights on the youth patterns.

Here are some tips for adding, or taking away length to a pattern for an adult.

Our patterns are drafted to two different size charts, as well as different heights for both charts.

for our Hourglass Figure chart, patterns are drafted to a 5’5″ height.
for our V-Figure Chart, patterns are drafted to a 5’6″ (short) / 5’10” (average) / 6’2″ (tall) height.

The “rule of thumb” is to add or remove 1/2″ for every 1″ that you differ from the height that the pattern is drafted for.

For example, at 5’10” there is a 5″ difference so I would need to add 2.5″ throughout the pattern. If I were 5’1″ then I would remove 2″ of length since there is a 4″ difference.

If you are shorter or taller you need to add/take away length throughout the whole pattern!
Just like children’s patterns I DO NOT recommend only adding to the bottom hemline. Knit patterns are much more forgiving in fit. And sure, adding only to the bottom hemline will make your garment longer. But using the method of lengthening at the bottom only will most likely not give you the desired fit.

The four places I recommend adjusting for height are:

at the shoulder/armscye
just under the bust line
just under the waistline
at the bottom hemline.

Adding throughout the pattern helps keep the bust, waist, and hip where they actually hit you. P4P uses a standard side waist length of 8″ and a waist to hip length of 8.25″ so if you know your specific length measurements between those points, you will want to add/remove the exact amount in those areas.

(Not sure where to measure yourself for garment sewing? Check out our post here.)

I have made myself enough clothing to know how much I need to add to MOST patterns designed for average height.
– I add about 2 1/8″ to every shirt I make, or I add about 2 5/8″ to my tunic length tops
– I even know how much I like in each spot: at my shoulders I add a scant 1/8-1/4″, at the chest and waist area I add 3/4-1″, and my bottom hems get about 1/2-1″ added to them.

The shoulder/armscye adjustments can be tackled a couple of different ways. I personally like to take a smaller seam allowance there to add some length. But you can also splice your pattern straight across where the armsyce is and spread the pattern pieces to add length that way. I only add about 1/8-1/4″ to mine, but that tiny difference makes SUCH A HUGE difference in how a shirt fits me!

Because of how our no-trim patterns are assembled with the Letter and A4 formats, there are margins on each of the overlapped pages that make slash + spread adjustments easy as pie! For the chest and waist, I simply untape the pattern pieces, move them down (adding what I need for extra length), and then retape that section.

Or you can (with any pattern)… splice it straight across and measure what you’d like to add.

Shortening is the same method, you would just be overlapping instead of adding.

With the height adjustments you’re making, with adding or removing length, the pattern pieces won’t line up perfectly without a one extra step. All you need to do is cut out the pattern and “true up” the sides. Simply match the lines up and straighten them out the best you can to even out the adjustments made.

Repeat the process for the other pattern pieces as needed.

Remember: If you added length in the armscye on the bodice piece, you need to add length in the sleeve as well. Or if you changed the length of the rise on the back leg piece, you’ll need to do that same adjustment to the front leg piece.

Pants (like our Peg Legs, Vintage Jumper or Uptown Joggers) should also be shortened or lengthened throughout. Each of the patterns include a finished inseam length. Measure your inseam and compare to the pattern to make your length adjustments.

Ta-Da!!!! Now you have shirts and pants that will FIT you…ALL over! 🙂

How to Mash Sizes for a Custom Fit!

June 13, 2015

Do you have a tall skinny minny? Or a little one who needs a bigger width then their height? This is a simple easy route to mashing sizes for children to get a better fit! No more just adding to the hem!! If your child needs length they need it throughout the whole garment, not just the hem! And vice versa if your child is shorter they need it shortened throughout the whole garment.

So here is the quick guide. You will take their overall height and match that to the size chart of your pattern… for this example I’m going to be using my niece who is 44″ tall- which matches my size 5. Her chest and waist match a size 4. So I will be using the width of a 4 and the length of the 5 on every pattern piece!

**I’m going to note in here too that going more then 2 sizes is very hard to keep the proportion and shape of the pattern.

Here is a picture where I highlighted the size 4 and 5 (Size 4 in yellow and size 5 in orange). I don’t typically do this, but I did to help illustrate 🙂

And here I drew in black to show how I followed the size 4 width overall on the piece and the size 5 length. See how I made the armhole the size 5 length, and neck hole… these are places where your little ones fit will drastically improve with this method!

And again, here is the sleeve with a 4 width and 5 length. Make sure you keep EVERY piece the same length/width and your pattern will fit together beautifully 🙂

Coming from a very tall girl- if your little one needs added length they will be so much more comfortable with that longer armhole/neckhole/bodice!! I can hardly wear shirts that I don’t add that 1/8-1/4″ at my armhole… even though it seems like such a small adjustment it makes such a BIG difference in my fit! 🙂

This method can also be used with a shorter length to width— I used to do this for my little one when he was younger– he is big for age so he was in toddler sizing with a baby figure! He needed a much bigger around then his height and it worked wonderful for him!

Now go create that perfect custom fit!! 🙂

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