Blog - Patterns for Pirates

Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can. The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs. Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look. It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it. I love the entire look and idea of it.

First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern. If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that. The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket. Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt. I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps. Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge. Why? Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug. Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you. When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge. Serge it or do a small rolled hem. Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press. You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve. Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it). The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed. And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual. It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

Followed one of the hacks shared on this site? Or maybe you came up with something of your own? We are DYING to know! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt. Happy sewing!

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not. The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy. Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works. But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit. The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form. Heaven, right?

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos. Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants. Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing. It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric. Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement. Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy. And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever! Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″? The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around. Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs. Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge. Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam. Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece. I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie. I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube. I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease. Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants. I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted. (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

Next, I marked my buttonholes. I did about 1/2″ from the center for each. I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

You will need to use a knit button hole. Here is what mine looks like on my machine. The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs. The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants. After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband. I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉 I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go. The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things. Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

Unlined Pocket Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket: Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

Stitch Pocket on front leg. Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

There you have it! Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs. Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams. (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks? Or came up with something of your own? We are DYING to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Tips and Tricks of Up-cycling

December 2, 2015

I love to up-cycle! With a little boy I can find boyish knits, stripes and even character prints so much easier and more affordable buying a men’s T-shirt then the $30/yd euro knit… Which I’m constantly drooling over! I also love the heathered T-shirt knit, which is harder to find in a fabric store and very easily found in RTW (Ready to wear). I love to use my husband and my old shirts as well… It’s even more special handmade with an already sentimental shirt! So here are some tips and tricks I’ve learned… 1- Buy bigger… Why not? If an XS and XXXL are the same price get more fabric 🙂 2- If it has a picture on it make sure it will fit on your smaller size you are creating. This one can be difficult if you’re buying large men’s shirts BC they are proportionally much bigger pictures/words/designs on the chest. Here is one I BARELY SQUEEZED on his little chest, but then when it is on some wraps around to the sides, so really I should’ve waited until he was a few sizes bigger!

3- Use the hem! I don’t have a cover stitch machine… Yet 🙂 and although I love my double needle using the existing hem saves time and looks nice and professional already! All you have to do is account for the hem- Most my patterns are 1″ so here I am cutting with my pattern piece 1″ below my fabric to make up for the fact that I will not be turning up and hemming.

4- Cut you RTW items down the seams, this give you nice flat pieces to last your pattern pieces out on. If there isn’t a side seam, then I don’t cut… but anywhere there are seams I go ahead and cut because you will not be able to use the area. I also cut the sleeves, again along the seam and use them if I can! Here is a shirt and shorts cut and ready to use:

5- If you’re using a shirt with a design, fold with the DESIGN centered… You’d think RTW is all centered nicely on that shirt… Until you fold it at the side seams and realize it’s not!! Often they’re off centered! 6- If you don’t have ribbed knit to match for the neckline you can use theirs…especially if you have a much larger size (men’s xxl down to a toddler size). Here are a couple of some up-cycles I’ve done: Patterns for Pirates Buccaneer BBall Shorts:

Matey Muscle Tank:

Wingman Shirt: The grey was from a heathered grey t-shirt… the Batman logo was appliqued on my sewing machine 🙂

Deep Sea V-Neck:

Cole’s Creations ‘Buttercup Dress:

Women’s Raglan:

FST/LMU Mash Nursing Hack

November 25, 2015

I love the FST and LMU mash for after baby. It makes me feel stylish, put together and comfortable! The loose aline look hides any left over baby belly and the tighter top doesn’t feel you leaving frumpy.

For this hack I essentially did a double layer body. I can lift up the top layer and have the bottom layer covering my back/belly during nursing. And it looks like a perfectly “normal” everyday shirt! 🙂

I made mine completely doubled because we are going into winter here and I didn’t mind the added warmth. If I was making this for spring or summer months I would probably tinker with a faux double layer for the back piece.

I cut 2 front and back pieces.

Then took 1 front piece to modify for the under layer. I measured on myself from the neckline to under my bust (I did happen to have on the same shirt, so I didn’t even need to guess where the neckline hit ;)). Then I transferred that measurement to the front center and curved up to the armpit.

Since the FST flares out under the bust it was a little loose there. So I added a thin elastic to the raw edge. I just held the elastic taute (not tight) on my body from seam to seam (again, I happen to be wearing this shirt, so there was no guessing!). This way the two layers would have the same finish length–without the elastic holding up the center it would droop lower then the top layer. As well as not worry about holding it up while nursing–bonus :).

I choose to put my elastic on the right side of my under layer, because I didn’t want to feel it against my skin. But you can put it on the wrong side so that it is hidden when you nurse– whatever you prefer! You will need to stretch the elastic to fit the curve. I serged mine on, but any stretch stitch will work! It will line up right at the armpit.

I sewed the shoulder seams and sleeves on like normal. Then when going down the side seams I kept the main body layers seperate (so you can lift the top layer freely). It is a bit tricky right at the armpit, but just go slowly and remember you wont be showing anyone the inside of your armpit seam! 😉

Now for hemming, I choose to hem the top layer completely normal with a 1″ allowance.

For the under layer I choose to add a pretty lace trim to stick out longer then the top layer. I wanted the seam hidden, so I trimmed off 1″ from the bottom.

I serged my lace on right sides together trimming off about 1/2″ of both shirt and lace (the top of the lace that was blank).

Then flipped up and top-stitched (I didn’t want that seam flipping and showing through the dainty lace trim!). So, I trimmed 1″ and took off another 1/2″. This means my seam on the under layer should be 1/2″ above the hemmed edge of my top layer and the lace will peek out below.

I attached the neckband normally catching both layers on the back piece and top layer of the front piece.

Tada! I love my new warm winter nursing friendly shirt! It screams fashionable and not I’m nursing! 🙂 When you’re done nursing you can still wear it as is… or cut out the under layer!

Layer Me Up Nursing Hack

November 23, 2015

I love wearing my Layer Me Up tanks under cardigans during the fall and long sleeve option during the winter. I can pull down the neckline to nurse, but I love to have something up and down for nursing in public. So, this hack was born!

It is quick and easy too, which is a plus if you’re nursing and taking care of baby!

I cut out one layer me up exactly as the pattern calls for. I added one piece using the front piece. I measured from my armpit to below my bust and transferred that to the pattern piece. This will become my lift up piece hidden under my normal pieces.

Since the layer me up is a tight fit shirt that requires a 50% stretch spandex blend fabric, you don’t necessarily need to add any elastic to keep it from stretching out with wear/pulling throughout the day. But, you might want to add it to the bottom raw edge of the hidden lift up piece just to add a little weight and to keep it from shifting around at all during wear. I serged it on, then hemmed under.

I wanted the under piece hidden, so I trimmed about 1/2″ from the neckline. You could hem it under if you wanted it to be pretty :).

Pin your under layer to the wrong side of the front piece and sew up your shirt normal–the only other modification is at the neckline. You will attach the neckband only to the main shirt and leave your hidden piece loose. This way it is free to come up when nursing.

Now you have a shirt that looks perfectly “normal” and can pull down the neckline and hidden piece up to nurse! You can wear it after just as is, or cut out your hidden piece and wear :).

I grabbed a lovely colored ribbed knit without thinking (remember I have a tiny newborn 😉 ) and it had HORRIBLE recovery. No spandex— it grew and grew and grew! So, I will be trying this hack again in the correct material!

And of course, one with Little Guy photobombing 🙂

First Time User Tips

October 23, 2015

Are you using a P4P pattern for the very first time? I’m so excited for you to try out one of my pdf sewing patterns! Here are a few tips if you are brand new to sewing a P4P pattern, or to sewing from a pattern in general.

*Buying from the site- you will receive an email with a download link after payment is processed (check JUNK mail) and you can also log back into the site to download any purchased patterns anytime! Our freebie patterns downloads expire in 30 days once purchased, but fear not! You can add them to cart and “buy” them as many times as you want.

Our patterns include various formats so be sure to open the correct one.

Letter – used mainly in the USA, must be printed on letter size paper (8.5″ by 11″)

A4 – used outside of USA, must be printed on A4 size paper (8.25″ by 11.75″)

A0 – used to print on 36″ wide paper, usually at copy shops.

Projector – this new style of paperless/printless way of cutting the fabric pieces requires a special set up. I would not recommend this for beginners. Only the newest P4P patterns include projector files.

#1: Read the tutorial thoroughly before beginning. Before you start envisioning fabric selection and thinking about what size, you need to sit and read! There is A LOT of info in the first few pages of a P4P pattern. Here are some highlights in those first few pages:

*Printing instructions- You MUST open and print from ADOBE PDF viewer, not the app, not another PDF program! This will ensure the correct scaling! I advise only printing the pattern pieces (these are listed on the first page in the tutorial) to save paper and ink-you can read the tutorial instructions on a computer, laptop, tablet, smart phone-whatever you have available! You will want to print with scaling set to “none” or custom “100%”. Carefully measure the 1×1 inch square to ensure that the pattern is printed in the correct scale (I always advise to only print the first page with the measuring inch first to test, then when you are sure it’s correct print the other pages). Our newer patterns include a 2″x2″ and a 4cm x 4cm square instead of the 1″ one.

Here is a shot of what your adobe printing settings should look like before you print: Custom scale: 100% and about the preview it should say 100%

Here is a shot of the printed page with a correct 1×1 inch square:

One of the most common printing mistakes is to have the “fit to page” option clicked. Here is a shot of “fit to page” INCORRECT printing. This will result in a pattern that is much smaller then intended!

If you look, you will see an outline around the entire page about 1/8″ that should not be there. The 1×1 inch square will also measure slightly smaller.

*Piecing the pattern pieces together- I have a quick video putting the “no trim pages” together here: (you must be a member of the P4P FB group to view) Video Link

*Choosing your size- I have a size chart both in the listing pictures and in the first few pages of the tutorial. Carefully measure yourself and find the size that your measurements correlate to. Chest-fullest part around your bust, Waist-where you naturally bend to the side, High Hip-around your hip bones, Hip-around the fullest part of bottom/booty. I only add the measurements that are important for that particular pattern.

Here is a blog post about measuring yourself.

If your measurements put you in several sizes then you can mash/blend sizes between your measurements to create the perfect fit (this is why sewing is so great! Custom fit and size for your particular body type). Our P4P University blog series includes a very helpful post about grading. You can read the Grading blog here.
Using the “Finished Measurements”- You can flat measure other garments that are well fitting and compare, or compare to your measurements. You should be able to know exactly how much you need to add or take off for the perfect length before sewing up!
LAYERS – once you chose your size(s) you can print just the needed one(s) by selecting it/them on the left side of the pdf file. Simply use the cursor to click/unclick the little “eye” located on the left of each size.
I also include the height my patterns are drafted for above the size chart (5’5″). If you are shorter or taller you will need to adjust for your height. I include a link right below the size chart to this post explaining how I prefer to add/take length for petite and tall adjustments: Petite and Tall Adjustment Blog Post
Do not choose your size based on what you buy in ready to wear/store bought clothing. Store sizing varies extremely from store to store. Just choose based on your current measurements!
Read the description of fit carefully (located under the line drawing in the tutorial).
Look through the pattern album in the group! Yes, I have an album for almost every single pattern filled with A TON of pictures of every size and option for everyone to look through to see the intended fit of the pattern. You can see where it is fitted, loose, and how it looks on a variety of sizes and body types. Most pictures are also labeled with their size and their fabric choose to help even more! You can view the albums both mobile and on a desktop! Just go to the P4P FB Group and click “view group info”. From there you can click “pictures” and go to “albums”. Scroll through for the particular patterns you’re looking for! 🙂
Mobile View:

Desktop View:

*Choosing fabric- One of the most IMPORTANT parts of following a pattern is to use fabric that is suggested by the designer. If you don’t you will not have the intended look that is shown on the cover and listing pictures. The wrong fabric can mean a loose fit turns snug, a flowy fit turns tent-like, and so on.

Knit fabrics– I often give the percent of stretch knit fabrics should have for fitted patterns. Here is a quick link to my sister’s blog with a video on how to find the percentage of stretch: Megan’s Blog Post
Different fabric = Different look and fit— if you do not follow the suggested types of fabric you have to be prepared for the garment to not look and fit how it is intended and showed in the pattern listing pictures. I make sure that all my testers follow those suggestions, so all the tester pictures are going to show the intended fit and look. If you are unsure, read our Different Fabric, Different Fit before you decide.
Buying online- I love to buy online. In fact, I pretty much get fabric from an online source or scramble to “borrow” some from my Mama’s large stash ;). I hardly ever make it to a brick and mortar store! BUT, there seems to be an endless amount of fabric types to learn as a beginner seamstress and online shopping can be very difficult to navigate. I always suggest buying from a smaller shop that you can message questions to! Being able to ask how thick/thin, percentage of stretch and even if it would be good for a certain type of garment is such a nice bonus to supporting a smaller shop!
- There are a lot of shops offering non custom fabric online as well as an abundance of custom knit designers/hosts FB that are smaller businesses (but be weary-sadly there are many that have been scammed by these groups, so look for well established custom groups). I love destash fb pages where you can buy from other sewists, but often you’re buying from someone who doesn’t know the full description of the fabric, so I don’t recommend this for beginners.
- Stick to searching the exact recommended fabrics until you are confident with all the different kinds of fabrics out there.
- We also offer a monthly subscription where you can receive a 2 yard piece of fabric, hand selected by our team. Get all the details about Fabric for Pirates here.
Fabric Requirements- I list fabric requirements on the last listing picture under the size chart as well as the first few pages of the tutorial. I often break up the fabric requirements into different options and different parts of the garment. Example: Relaxed Raglan I list main body 7/8yd and long sleeves 7/8 yd, this means you will need 7/8 for the main body and an ADDITIONAL 7/8 for the sleeves.
- As described in the tutorial, the fabric requirements do not include extra for fabric being cut off grain, shrinkage after prewashing (I ALWAYS recommend pre-washing fabric before cutting!), or to match any kind of patterned fabric/directional fabrics.
- I recommend buying a little more to account for these things 🙂

*Looking for more inspiration- If you have looked through the listing pictures, album pictures in the FB group and still want to see more you can use the search bar in the Facebook group. with our hashtags to help! Some pictures are tagged with hashtag/pattern name… here are a few for examples: #peglegs #carefreecardigan #cptmackcardigan… using the hashtag will help pull up pictures and not posts about the pattern 🙂

Now we’re finally ready to begin!

*Cutting fabric- It is important to cut your pieces along the grainline of the fabric. Grainline is easily found parallel along the selvage of the fabric (the sides that are not cut by the store). You want to match your selvage/grainline to the grainline arrow on the pattern piece. Making sure this is straight is important! If it is cut off grain/not straight it will hang not straight! Have you ever had a pant leg/sleeve/shirt always twisting while you wear it? That is because it was cut off grain! It’s really annoying! So take your time matching the grainline on both woven and knit fabrics.

*Cut chart- I include a cut chart for any rectangle pieces. The measurements for the cut chart are located in the first few pages of the tutorial and on the pattern pieces. This way you can cut your rectangle pieces without having to look up the tutorial :). Our newer patterns include rectangle pattern piece as well. Some sewists prefer to have everything printed so now you can chose.

I prefer to use my cutting mat, quilters ruler and rotary cutter for cutting rectangle pieces. If it has a longer measurement I prefer to fold in half and cut on the fold for ease as well. Again, make sure you are keeping your grainline straight.

*Direction of Stretch- I also include a direction of stretch arrow on all pattern pieces for knit garments. It is always perpendicular to the grainline. Even with 4 way stretch fabric the greatest amount of stretch will run horizontally on your fabric. If it is on the fold, fold your fabric selvage (the part not cut by the store) towards the opposite selvage as wide as your piece and place on fold.

*Using a Stretch Stitch for Knit Garments- Since most of my patterns are for knit/stretch fabric I thought I would add available stretch stitches you can use. I use a serger in the tutorial, this is a great machine stitch for stretch fabrics if you own one. Basic sewing machine stitches that also work are

a) triple stitch

b) lightening stitch

c)honeycomb stitch

d) overlock stitch

e) stretch overlock stitch-this is my personal favorite usually-

f) double overlock stitch

If you read your manual they will list the stretch stitches your machine have. If you don’t have or can’t find your manual you can always google for your manual! It is very valuable to have! 🙂

I hope these tips are helpful for first time users! You can always post other questions to the P4P FB group and don’t forget to share your final garment!

FST/LMU Mash Up

August 5, 2015

So you LOVE the loose a-line fit of the Free Spirit Tank, but would love it with sleeves?

Here is how you take the Layer Me Up Shirt to add sleeves 🙂

First… grab both patterns, some tracing paper and a pencil.

Trace your size of the Free Spirit Tank.

Place your Layer Me Up – SLEEVED BODICE piece matching on fold and at the top shoulder. Make sure you’re matching the front with the front 😉

Don’t worry about the neckline, although if you wanted it higher/tighter you could trace off the neckline from the Layer Me Up 🙂 Now just trace the armsyce from the Layer Me Up.

Repeat with the back pieces!

Now you can use any sleeve option from the Layer Me Up Shirt.

Here is mine I made for the fall!

Little guy wanted in 😉 Please excuse the no make up, mom hair, sports bra look!! It’s what I’m sporting most days though! 😉

I can’t wait to pair it with some leggings for the fall and winter! 🙂 It will be perfect right after baby girl comes!

Boundless Nursing Mod

August 5, 2015

I had lots of inquiries about nursing option for the Boundless Knit Dress. I know ladies love to create items they can wear during and after pregnancy! Since the Boundless has a lined bodice it is a super simple modification to do! Here is how I did mine 🙂

I cut out all my pieces normally- main fabric bodice, lining bodice, sleeves, skirt, and I did pockets for this one too! I did a mini length and didn’t add my 3″ I should for being super tall because I wanted a tunic length! I wear tunics and leggings much more then a dress 🙂

Choosing fabrics: I choose a spandex blend for both since the main fabric would be pulled and stretched a lot, you want it to have good recovery and not get stretched out and sloppy by the end of the day! The lining I choose a true spandex. I thought it would be soft on my skin, stretch nicely with the changes throughout the day of your bust measurement and be sturdy enough to do well with cut outs. I also choose a solid b/c it when you lift up you will actually be showing the wrong side of the fabric. You COULD sew the lining were a print shows, but you might make your brain very tired trying to figure it out 😉

You can follow the normal directions in the tutorial all the way through the bodice and skirt construction. ATTACHING the skirt is where we will change it up a bit! 🙂 ***Although, after creating mine I SHOULD have put right side of bodice to WRONG side of lining–this way the sides seams wouldn’t show when you pull up!***

Here is my bodice, again put together just as the directions say in the regular tutorial. For the main bodice fabric I choose to hem with an elastic hidden in the hem. I would’ve use a clear elastic if I hadn’t been all out 😉 so I used what I had! I measurement the finished bodice and cut to that size. I did not add for a seam allowance b/c I want to stretch it EVER so slightly with attaching.

Sew the elastic ends together creating a circle.

Now, I TOTALLY messed up here with pregancy brain, but didn’t want to unpick it! lol… so bare with me with this picture that is wrong! You want to baste the elastic stretching it EVER so slightly (I mean just barely) to the wrong side of the bodice edge. See my mistake 😉 I did right side lol!

Fold under and hem with the elastic enclosed in the hem. (Mine was obviously not enclosed b/c I messed up!)

Now for attaching to the skirt. I recommend using the “Traditional Gathering Method” for the skirt since there is elastic in the bodice, it might start getting bulking with elastic also in the skirt! Attaching the top with right sides together, but only catching the lining. The main bodice piece will be free.

Now you can try on and mark/make cut outs in the lining. I used my handy pen that disappears with a hot iron! I didn’t take pictures with the cut outs 😉 I’ve been asked several times what shape I cut out. I just did a horizontal slit below the apex (fullest part) of my bust. I thought it showed through the least that way. I just opened up the slit to use it.

Here is my finished nursing tunic from the Boundless Knit Dress!

And some with Little Guy sneaking in the action of course! He’s showing off his new toy! And I LOVE his face in the 2nd one, looks like he’s super impressed with the nursing mod! 😉

Love the pockets and the tunic length 🙂

Tips on sewing with silky fabrics

July 24, 2015

I have two patterns that I suggest using a lightweight woven with a very soft drape (Everyday Elegance Top and the Summer Cover Up). I often get asked for “tips and tricks” to working with this kinds of fabrics! So, here is a compiled list of a few tips I have for working with slippery wovens like chiffon, peach skin, rayon, satin, challis, ect.

I think the most difficult part of sewing something up in this fabric is the cutting. I almost always use pattern weights like these:

But with any kind of slippery fabric they’re a MUST! If you don’t have any, use any kind of paper weight, heavy object that isn’t too tall. The silver paper weights are from this Etsy Shop if you’re looking to buy. She has several options in her shop, I prefer the shorter version to be able to get my scissors closer to them! The pink were hand-me-downs from my mama <3.

Some specialty wovens are harder then others– if you’re cutting anything that needs to be precise (collar piece) then I recommend only cutting ONE layer at a time. With something as loose and forgiving as the kimono though, I don’t personally bother with it. 🙂

So, lets get started sewing! I recommend using a nice, new, sharp needle for these.

I also like to tighten my stitch length down one notch to keep away from puckers.

When sewing my BIGGEST TIP is to not OVERWORK the fabric. Although it is a non-stretch woven they will get “wonky” and pull out of shape if you do. Don’t pull or “man-handle” the fabric to make anything match! If your pieces aren’t lining up perfectly it is almost always a cutting mistake (remember I said that was the most difficult part!).

The good thing is most clothing made from these drapey fabrics are loose fitting and forgiving :). Trim and let it go 😉

After I sew, I PRESS. It takes a little more time, but it makes your end product much more professional.

French seams:

I had a lot of questions about using french seams. I don’t tend to care what the inside of my clothes look like a TON. But for nicer items in specialty wovens french seams would be nice. Here is my quick how to:

You will place your pieces WRONG side together and make the first stitch. For my patterns with 1/2″ seam allowances I do the first stitch at 1/4″. Then trim it to 1/8″. I press the seam on both the wrong and right sides of the garment flat, then fold at the seam and press again.

Now with RIGHT sides together and first seam pressed inside stitch again at 1/4″ from fold/seamline. This should enclose your raw edge from the first seam allowance and put you at your 1/2″ seam allowance total for the seam.

Again press from wrong and right sides of garment. I tend to always press to the back. You can top-stitch here if you prefer. I do lengthen my stitch length back out to 3 for top-stitching. Press again 🙂 Do you see an important trend in this? lol!

Hemming:

My prefered way to hem is to serge the edge—- I loosen my tension a tad to fight the puckering.

Then I press the serged edge over twice for a nice even narrow hem. Okay, most the time I don’t press…but you SHOULD press, I can hear my mom telling me to take my time and press every time I don’t 😉

Now I DO press after EVERY TIME! I see a lot of seamstresses complain their hems are “wonky” on specialty wovens, two things cause this- over working your fabric/pulling it as you sew and not pressing! A good press after can really change the way your hem looks!

I got asked to show how to hem without a serger; so here is how I hemmed without a serger. I pressed WITH LOTS OF STARTCH (don’t be scared to use some or lots 😉 ) a 1/2″ to wrong side.

Then I opened the 1/2″ hem and folded the raw edge to the fold line. This creates a 1/4″ narrow hem fold. Press again.

Tada! You can sew with specialty wovens! The biggest tips are: cut carefully, don’t pull your fabric as you sew and press, press and press again 🙂

Independence Day Sale!

June 29, 2015

I’m so excited to celebrate my new independent site along with the 4th of July this year! I hope everyone has an amazing holiday and can enjoy some patterns on sale to make it even better!

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