Blog - Patterns for Pirates

Women’s Raglan Nursing Mod

January 19, 2016

If you’re a nursing mom, you know that there are not many fashionable and functional tops out there for nursing that are reasonably priced. After having my little one last year, I quickly realized I wanted a nursing hoodie. I usually just wore a camisole and did the pull up method, but with a hoodie or sweater, that’s not quite as easy. I searched a few sites for inspiration and came up with a mod that works great for the looser relaxed cut tops. We just so happen to be testing the raglan add on pack at the time, so I used the Women’s Raglan as my base. This mod works best with thicker, more stable knits like French Terry, jegging (what I used in the tutorial), fleeced back knit, cotton Lycra, Ponte de Roma and so on. If using a knit with poor recovery, you will want to invest in some clear elastic.

First, you will cut two (2) Front pattern pieces on the FOLD. One will be your under layer and only needs to be about half the length. Measure from armpit to a couple inches below your bust. My example is approximately 9″ from armpit to bottom edge.

UNDER LAYER: Cut a “V” from about 2″ from bottom edge to top. You can also keep fabric on the fold and cut a diagonal line to create the “V”. Since knit does not unravel, you can choose to either leave the V and bottom edge raw, or finish the edges with your preferred method. You can also add a band at the bottom edge. I would recommend measuring the width and subtracting a couple of inches. This will help tighten the under layer and keep it under your bust.

TOP LAYER: Cut a semi-circle from each side. (tip: cutting the curves while the fabric is still on the fold will keep them equal) My curves start at approximately 4″ from neckline to 7″ from armpit however, you can adjust the curve to your liking based on your bust size and how deep you would like them.

Fold under curve 1/2″ to the wrong side and finish using a stretch stitch, zig zag or cover stitch. If your knit is less stable with poor recovery, add clear elastic in the hem for extra stability.

Place top layer wrong side to right side of the under layer. (my picture shows opposite, as I later decided to use the wrong side of the fabric as the right side of my finished garment.) Baste neckline and side seams.

This is now your new front piece. Continue construction of the raglan as shown in the tutorial. Finished product = An awesome nursing friendly hoodie or sweater! Once you’re done nursing you can go back and topstitch the curves closed and have an added design detail that no one would ever know it was for nursing.

Followed this nursing hack? Or came up with something of your own? We would love to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group!

NEW Pattern Release :: The Women’s Slim Fit Raglan

January 12, 2016

Hooray! It’s a Patterns for Pirates release day!
The Slimfit Raglan is exactly what everyone has been begging for. It is a super quick sew, has a feminine fit and super flattering on all body types. It is a classic look with trendy and modern options to choose from.

And like all P4P patterns, it is PACKED full of options! Includes sleeve options of short, 3/4 hemmed or banded, long hemmed or banded, so you can wear this year round. Has both shirt length (hits at mid-booty) and tunic length (hitting below booty–perfect to wear with leggings) so you can pair with all kinds of bottoms perfectly. Both lengths have a hemmed or banded option. Also includes a curved hem option.

This raglan also fits with our Raglan Add On Pack and combined can give you endless options!

Here’s a handful of photos from our AMAZING testers. If you want to see more (and to learn what size, options and fabric they used) head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group!

The Slimfit Raglan is on sale through the end of the week and also comes with the option to bundle it with the Add-On pack. Can’t wait to see what you make! Don’t forget to share it in the P4P Facebook group with us!

How to use the new Layers feature

January 9, 2016

Patterns for Pirates has added a brand new feature to their newest upcoming patterns! The Layers Feature! This means you can choose to print one size, a couple, or all of them if you’d like. They will still be the “No Trim” style.

Here is a few screenshots to help you use the new feature.

As always, you will need to open and print your PDF from Adobe PDF Reader (a free download if you don’t have it yet).

This is what your screen should look like viewing the PDF pattern pieces:

Now you can print just the sizes you need and save some ink and time tracing off your size! 🙂

As requested, here is our on-going list of patterns that have the layers feature (These are also the patterns that include the A0 Copy Shop File Size):

Freebies:

Youth:

Womens

Mens:

#PINspiredPIRATES :: A Monthly Sewing Contest!

January 6, 2016

Wahoo! Patterns for Pirates is officially launching a new social media contest!

Now that you’re in the addicting world of self-care sewing, you realize how easy it is to be inspired (or “pin”spired, rather) by things you see all over the internet. Or even in the store as you’re browsing. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve inspected a shirt in a store (or even taken a quick picture of it), just so I could go home and recreate it myself.

The girls at Patterns for Pirates are here to enable your self-care sewing habits even more!

It’s easy to enter, too!

Step 1: Sew something, using a P4P pattern of course, that you’ve drawn inspiration from. Inspiration can come from anywhere…a pin on Pinterest, something in a boutique shop, a shirt you saw at Target, a stranger passing by, etc.
Step 2: Take a picture of yourself rocking it.
Step 3: Post it on Instagram, using the tag: #PinspiredPirates Be sure to tell us which P4P pattern you used and the thing you were inspired by! (Don’t have an IG account? Go ahead and share it on P4P’s Facebook group, still using #PinspiredPirates and we will count that as an entry as well.)
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 as many times as possible, just because you can!

At the end of the month, a winner will be chosen! Not only will said winner be featured on this blog, BUT they will also be awarded a P4P pattern of their choice!

How about that? Easy, fun, inspired and fun. (Did I say fun already?)
Happy sewing! Can’t wait to see what you make!

Carefree with added Button

December 22, 2015

I’ve seen a lot of draped front cardigans with the big wooden buttons on Pinterest and in the Boutiques…and of course I thought, “I can do that!” So the Carefree Cardigan Big Button Modification was born!

The Carefree Cardigan is perfect for the look.

I choose the neckband only option, cuffed long sleeve, and choose to leave the front and bottom raw.

I’ve been making a ton of Carefrees after Baby Girl made her arrival… it is such a nice baby wearing cardigan that I feel cute in and can wrap us both up in when it’s windy or cold. I can also use it nursing her so easily without worrying about bringing another cover or getting anything on or ready when she’s ready to nurse! So, I thought I’d make TWO buttonhole placements… one for normal wear that just pulls the cardigan closed at the neckline… and a second for when I’m wearing Baby Girl and need the neckline open much more.

I sewed up my entire cardigan exactly as normal. Then tried it on both with Baby Girl on me and without and marked where I would like the cardigan to close. Of course, Little Guy had to come photobomb a few shots ;).

I placed my button down a bit away from my neck, because I happen to be one of those people who can’t stand anything tight up against their neck (you will never see a turtle neck from this designer ;)).

So now I needed to create the buttonholes, which is a bit different then usual because I wanted the GIANT buttons that are so popular right now and my sewing machine can’t fit a button near that big on my automatic buttonhole foot. SOOOO, I made my own buttonhole with 2 different size zigzag stitches.

First I marked my button placement and how big I need the buttonhole to be.

Then I sewed a very narrow rectangle that would be my buttonhole. I turned my zigzag length down very low to 1, so that it was a tight stitch.

For the top and bottom of my rectangle I used a wide 5 zigzag and for the sides I used a narrow 2. I simple freehanded it.

I used matching navy thread, so I knew if it wasn’t exactly perfect that no one would be able to see. Actually, the thread matched so close it was REALLY difficult to get a picture of the buttonhole!

Then I used my seam ripper to very carefully rip a line inside the narrow rectangle/buttonhole.

I created a second buttonhole for my baby wearing, looser option.

Wa-lah! Now I have a great on trend cardigan that was quick and easy that I can button up with or without Baby Girl! 🙂

Raglan Colorblock Tutorial (Guest Post)

December 15, 2015

Today’s post is a fun one!
We are giving you all a special guest post from a Patterns for Pirates fan, who sewed up this adorable colorblocked version of the Women’s Raglan. Ashley posted this on the P4P facebook group and we couldn’t help but want her to share it on here.

Ashley’s tutorial is specifically for the women’s raglan, to achieve the look that she has masterfully come up with. BUT, you can take information from this and colorblock anything with these techniques! (For instance, P4P’s Katy shows you how to do a curved colorblock with the women’s henley on her blog HERE.)

Without further ado, take it away Ashley!

Front Colorblock

a. Start with the Front of the Raglan Pattern. Mine is cut for the Small size. I then take a sheet of wax pattern and unroll it until it’s just about the size of the pattern piece. Trace the existing pattern onto the wax paper and decide what length and neckline you would like. In this example, you’ll see the curved hem and a modified V Neck (see step 2 for instructions on doing the V-‐Neck prior to going onto step b).

b. From the end of the arm hole measure 2.5 inches Draw a line straight across the pattern piece (shown as the green line in Figure 1). . Then measure ¼ of an inch down from that line and draw another line. ( Shown as the blue line on Figure 1. Here you are adding on ¼ seam allowance for when you add your stripe pieces).

c. Cut on the pattern on the 2 ¾ line (blue). Continue with cutting the rest of the pattern. Make sure you make all of the original marks like fold lines and notches so that you can line up the pattern correctly. I also label what each piece is so that I don’t get confused later on. d. FT = Front Top, FB= Front bottom.

V-‐Neck adjustment

a. I personally don’t like a deep V-‐neck. So what I did on the Front is where the flat part (small pink line) is on the top of the pattern, where the front scoop (green line) and the armhole meet, I extended it to the left, approximately 1/4inch. I then eye balled it where I wanted the V to end on the middle front of the shirt and drew a diagonal line from that point to beginning of the new flat part (long pink line).

Sleeve alterations

a. Start by taking the sleeve piece and unroll two pieces of wax paper. You’ll have to tape them together in order for it to be wide enough.

b. Trace the outline of the existing sleeve.

c. Measure 2.5 inches down from the left shoulder seam that will eventually meet the front seam ( green line). In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dots line on the original pattern.

d. Measure ¼ inch from the green line and draw a straight line across the pattern (blue line). Again here we are just adding a seam allowance. In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dot dash on the original pattern.

e. RT= Right Top

f. I then used the existing solid red short sleeve line for where I wanted my stripe to end. I drew a line across there (green) and also ¼ of an inch down from there (blue). The middle piece with the seam allowances added is equal to 2.5 inches wide, which when sewn, will give you an ending piece of 2 inches.

g. Now that we have the top and bottom sections of the arm we need to do the middle part with the stripe. What I did to make things easier was draw lines across in the middle of the middle sections and shaded it in so that I could see how wide the stripe was going to end up being on the finished product. (See photo)

h. After I was happy with it I cut the pattern on the GREEN line of the RT and the BLUE line of the RB. Now here’s the tricky part. If you were to just cut out that piece you would end up with a middle piece that’s too small and therefore our sleeve length will be short. I took the RM in the wax paper and taped it onto two pieces of computer paper. I then measured ¼ inch on the top and ¼ inch from the bottom. I extended the lines out in order to make the total width of the RM 2.5 inches.

i. For the stripe in the middle of RM I measured the shaded in part of it and then traced the measurements onto a piece of computer paper so that I had a hard copy and not just the wax paper.

Cutting

a. Whew! The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to eat a donut or whatever your favorite snack is because you just made it through the hardest part of the hack (in my opinion.)

b. Now that you have all of your pieces you need to decide what color you want the top and bottom parts of the front. In my example the top is plaid and the bottom is black. I then took all the parts for plaid, FT, RT, RB, & stripe and made those into a pile. Then FB, RM, and Back in another pile for black.

c. When you lay out your pattern pieces make sure that if it needs to be on a fold, like the FT, FB, or back that you put it on a fold. For all of the sleeve pieces I just doubled up my fabric so that I end up with a Right and a Left once cut instead of mirroring (too much work).

d. I added about 1.5 inches to the bottom of RB also so that I could hem the sleeves. You do not need to add as much as I do it’s your preference. You can do anywhere from .5 inch to 1.5 here because we aren’t attaching cuffs.

e. The only thing you need to remember with cutting FB is that you need to measure up ¼ inch in order to account for the seam allowance when you sew them together. All of my seam allowances are ¼ inch until you sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Those you would do your normal ½ inch.

f. You also want to cut out your RM pieces. Those do not require a fold.

g. Once you have everything cut out, keep the pattern pieces for the sleeves pinned so that it’s easier to put all the left and right pieces together.

Sewing machine/Serger time!!!

a. Time to put this shirt together. The first thing I always do is my hems, so that they are out of the way. You can do them however you want but I find it easiest to iron first, then use hem tape, and finish with a straight top stitch. I avoid zigzag stitches at all costs just because that’s the easiest way for me to tell between a store bought and homemade shirt. Personal preference only.

b. Now that the shirt hems and sleeve hems are finished let’s start with the easier pieces. Take TF and BF with right sides together and sew at the seam. Always remember rights to rights.

c. I serge everything when it comes to apparel so when that is finished I press the seam and top stitch so that it lays nicely when you wear it. This is optional.

d. Now it’s time to do the sleeves. I took a strip of Heat N’ Bond Lite (or Wonder Under) and with the wrong side of the stripe on the sticky side, iron on the Heat N’ Bond. Let cool and then peel off paper backing. Then line up in the middle of MR and press to adhere to MR. Top stitch or zigzag around edges in order to secure (optional).

e. Line up TR bottom edge with MR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch

f. Line up MR bottom and BR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch. Repeat with Left sleeve pieces.

You are in the home stretch.
Now all that’s left is to follow the same steps you would take with any other raglan. Attach the sleeves to the front and back panels and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.

The VNeck I treated similar to any other neckband except I didn’t start with a loop nor did I measure it out beforehand. I just cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide, folded in half, and press, then starting at the V in the front attach like you would binding on a quilt or other necklines.

I hope everyone enjoys this new colorblock design and if anyone has any questions I’d be happy to help out or explain something!

***Next time I think I’ll just make the MR and Stripe one piece similar to the elbow patch instead of spending so much time sewing each piece of the sleeve together and topstitching. That way you could cut full sleeve pieces and then attach the MR/ML with Heat N’Bond and zigzag stitch down.

P4P Shirt fits Explained

December 13, 2015

I get asked a lot how the different P4P shirt pattterns compare fit wise.

So to help those visual people (most of us sewing/creative types are!), I created a little line drawing with the hourglass figure in each shirt.

Remember, P4P is designed for an hourglass figure; so if you have a different body type you will have a different fit unless you follow your measurements and grade between the sizes you are.

Also, “hips” are the widest part of you- usually your booty. So while looking at the line drawings, remember that the widest part is really the booty!

Here is the quick line drawing:

And for more quick overview here I am in every P4P shirt. I was a solid medium at the time of all pictures unless noted.

Layer Me Up: Tight fit through arms and body meant to be layered under other garments. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: Knits with lots of stretch (70% more are my favorite) cotton spandex, rayon spandex, and liverpool knit.

Cross my Heart Cami: Fitted through bust and a closefit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Cotton spandex, rayon spandex, jerseys, poly blends, ity, brushed poly and ribbed knit all work well.

The Basic Tee: Fitted through bust and a semi-fit through waist and close at hips. This is a small/medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, tri-blends, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity, ribbed knit, sweater knits all work well.

Essential Tank: Fitted through bust and a close semi-fit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity and ribbed knit all work well.

Women’s Henley: Fitted through bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips. (I don’t have many of these since it was drafted and released when I was pregnant 🙂 I made a medium here, but my bust and waist were bigger right after baby girl arrived!)

Favorite Fabrics: thermals, medium weight sweater knits, cotton jerseys, and rayon spandex.

Boyfriend V Neck: Semi-fitted through bust, waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like to use a cotton jersey, interlock, medium weight sweater knit for a more fitted look. For a looser/slub feel I go for rayon spandex.

Slim Fit Raglan: Fitted at bust and arms, semi-fitted at waist and hips.

Favorite Fabrics: Medium weight sweater knit, rayon spandex blends, cotton spandex, stretch french terry, slub jersey.

Women’s Raglan: Loose fit through bust and waist, semi-fitted at hips- straight cut. Loose on arms. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: More stable knits like french terry, sweatshirt, fleece, interlock, and ponte roma.

(PS- I have a light pink undershirt under the lace one! I didn’t realize that was a mistake until after the pictures! lol)

Favorite Tee: this is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hip. The side vent hem can give you even more relaxed fit through hip.

Favorite Fabics: You have a pretty wide range of knits you can use on this shirt. I prefer a flowly, drapey knit for the curved hem option like rayon spandex, modal, poly jerseys, ITY. For the banded hem option I love something with a little more structure like a rayon french terry and poly jerseys. The side vent hem can use either of these and look great. For the dress length I prefer something more structured again like double brushed poly, cotton spandex, rayon french terry.

Sweet Tee: this is a slimmed dolman with very small “bat wings” under the arms. It is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits, although it has very small “bat wings” I still strongly prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used tissue jersey, slub jersey, light and medium weight sweater knits, and rayon spandex for my favorites.

Tulip Tee: this is a boxy, relaxed fit dolman. Semi-fitted at bust and hip, but a straighter cut through waist. Although it’s not straight, it is still very loose through waist. The plain option will feel and fit tighter at the waist and hip than the tulip option, which will naturally swing open for a looser feel.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits. I prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used mostly rayon/modal/ blends for mine personally. I love it in a soft sweater knit for fall/winter as well. You could use a slub knit, poly blend, triblend, ITY all as well.

Pumpkin Spice Dolman: oversized/loose fit through upper arms, bust and waist. Semi-fitted on hips. Tight fit on lower arms. (Medium in the navy/grey and Large in the others- I hit those measurements at the time of sewing/pictures :))

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits (both medium and lighter work), thinner slub jerseys, french terry with rayon in the blend, and ity.

Free Spirit Tank: Fitted at bust, drastic a-line out to give loose fit through waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good stretch and drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits and thinner slub jersey.

Sporty Piko: A very loose, straight cut from the short sleeve juncture. It is loose throughout the body with relaxed sleeves as well.

Favorite Fabrics: It really depends on the look you’re wanting for this one! I love a french terry for the hoodie options, but for an everyday tee it must have a very soft drape. You can use various fabrics depending on how boxy you want the shirt to appear- the more stable the fabric the boxier it will look worn.

Brunch Blouse: Fitted at bust, curves in only a touch at waist, loose on hips.

Favorite Fabrics: Rayon challis, crepe, anything with a softer drape.

Everyday Elegance: Loose fit through bust and waist- straight cut to hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabrics with lots of drape for this one like peach skin, chiffon, rayon challis.

Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can. The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs. Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look. It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it. I love the entire look and idea of it.

First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern. If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that. The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket. Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt. I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps. Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge. Why? Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug. Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you. When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge. Serge it or do a small rolled hem. Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press. You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve. Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it). The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed. And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual. It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

Followed one of the hacks shared on this site? Or maybe you came up with something of your own? We are DYING to know! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt. Happy sewing!

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not. The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy. Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works. But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit. The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form. Heaven, right?

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos. Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants. Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing. It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric. Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement. Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy. And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever! Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″? The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around. Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs. Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge. Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam. Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece. I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie. I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube. I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease. Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants. I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted. (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

Next, I marked my buttonholes. I did about 1/2″ from the center for each. I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

You will need to use a knit button hole. Here is what mine looks like on my machine. The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs. The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants. After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband. I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉 I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go. The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things. Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

Unlined Pocket Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket: Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

Stitch Pocket on front leg. Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

There you have it! Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs. Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams. (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks? Or came up with something of your own? We are DYING to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Tips and Tricks of Up-cycling

December 2, 2015

I love to up-cycle! With a little boy I can find boyish knits, stripes and even character prints so much easier and more affordable buying a men’s T-shirt then the $30/yd euro knit… Which I’m constantly drooling over! I also love the heathered T-shirt knit, which is harder to find in a fabric store and very easily found in RTW (Ready to wear). I love to use my husband and my old shirts as well… It’s even more special handmade with an already sentimental shirt! So here are some tips and tricks I’ve learned… 1- Buy bigger… Why not? If an XS and XXXL are the same price get more fabric 🙂 2- If it has a picture on it make sure it will fit on your smaller size you are creating. This one can be difficult if you’re buying large men’s shirts BC they are proportionally much bigger pictures/words/designs on the chest. Here is one I BARELY SQUEEZED on his little chest, but then when it is on some wraps around to the sides, so really I should’ve waited until he was a few sizes bigger!

3- Use the hem! I don’t have a cover stitch machine… Yet 🙂 and although I love my double needle using the existing hem saves time and looks nice and professional already! All you have to do is account for the hem- Most my patterns are 1″ so here I am cutting with my pattern piece 1″ below my fabric to make up for the fact that I will not be turning up and hemming.

4- Cut you RTW items down the seams, this give you nice flat pieces to last your pattern pieces out on. If there isn’t a side seam, then I don’t cut… but anywhere there are seams I go ahead and cut because you will not be able to use the area. I also cut the sleeves, again along the seam and use them if I can! Here is a shirt and shorts cut and ready to use:

5- If you’re using a shirt with a design, fold with the DESIGN centered… You’d think RTW is all centered nicely on that shirt… Until you fold it at the side seams and realize it’s not!! Often they’re off centered! 6- If you don’t have ribbed knit to match for the neckline you can use theirs…especially if you have a much larger size (men’s xxl down to a toddler size). Here are a couple of some up-cycles I’ve done: Patterns for Pirates Buccaneer BBall Shorts: