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Sweetheart SAL Day 2: Printing + Measuring

March 15, 2016

Welcome back to the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long. Let’s get Day #2 started!

Today is all about printing and assembling your pattern. And measuring yourself correctly, so we make sure to get the best fit.

Patterns for Pirates patterns have lots of little extras for you. First, the newest files are set up with a “layers” feature. You can read all about how to access the layers HERE.

And on top of that, they are “no-trim” pages. And that’s exactly what it sounds like! The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly. It makes this step of the process even quicker. Need help assembling the no-trim pages? No problem! Judy created this fabulous video for us. Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling. We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern. Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit. Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Now let’s talk measuring yourself!

Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself. You can see the full post HERE. However, since the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns have a full circle skirt, which makes it very forgiving in the hips, the most important fit aspect of this pattern is the bodice.

Full Bust: Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust. You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

Over Bust: This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

Under Bust: This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

Waist: This is your natural waistline. Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants). It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section. If you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section. Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on your smallest part.

This is your natural waist

Side Waist Length: Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist. This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist. (Ahem, Sweetheart Dress!) Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit. If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage. 😉

Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm. Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

The Sweetheart dress was designed for the average “side waist length” of 8 inches. If you measure more or less than that, it’s incredibly important to adjust your pattern to fit your body properly.

We recommend to adjust differently, based upon your bust size. If you have a smaller/larger bust than the pattern is drafted for, make your height adjustments at the bust line. If your bust measurements are the same, add or remove the length below your bust line.

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it? To get the perfect fit? Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Let’s say your measurements fall in a “medium” bust and a “large” waist. Cut the pattern out, by grading between the two sizes. Before cutting, simply draw a line on your paper pattern, blending the sizes at a midpoint. You want your line as smooth as possible between to the two sizes.

WHEW! Did you soak in all of that information?
Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow. If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us! We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL: Day 1 – Fabric Selection

March 14, 2016

Welcome to Day 1 of the P4P Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long! We are so glad you’re here.

Today, we are talking fabric. Let’s be honest, if you’re here, fabric is probably your favorite thing to talk about already. So this is going to be a fun topic. Let’s get started!

Fabric choice can really make or break a garment. Not just the color or pattern, but the kind of fabric you use.

There are so many fabrics out there that you can get lost in the different options. What helps is to familiarize yourself with how the fabric will look once it’s on you (how it will drape and fit). Feeling fabric for the amount of stretch, thickness, and drape will help you pair it with the right pattern.

So what is the right fabric for the Sweetheart pattern?

We highly recommend a more stable knit. Ponte de roma, jegging, scuba, liverpool, and thicker cotton lycras are fabulous for this pattern, specifically because of the circle skirt. Fabrics with a higher drape will still work, but beware that the skirt could end up being a bit more clingy that you were hoping.

For the overlays and colorblocked top pieces, feel free to use any of the above listed fabrics, as well as stretch lace, mesh knits, rayon blends, etc.

Ponte de Roma: (or ponte, ponte roma, ponte di roma, etc) This fabric is a double knit in construction, and tends to look the same on both sides. It’s a sturdy knit, generally with a horizontal stretch only, although can sometimes also be found with a vertical stretch. It’s made up of poly, rayon and spandex blend (the more rayon the softer the feel). It can pill easily, but if you hang dry should last you with normal wear. The rayon gives it a good drape still, see how the skirt falls towards the body.

Jegging: Typically thought to be used for skinny pants and other bottoms, jegging is a medium-weight stretch fabric. You can also find it labeled “denim knit” in some shops. Often, it has a denim-style look (think blues and blacks) and is meant to mimic jeans while keeping the comfort of stretch fabric. It has some vertical stretch. Weight of jegging knit can vary widely, so if you’re using it for the sweetheart you want to keep it a bit thicker.

Scuba: A highly structured, one sided fabric, made of neoprene (with a sleek surface, much like a scuba outfit). Typically only has a horizontal stretch and is easy to sew with, however isn’t the most breathable fabric. These types of knits have a great stretch and recovery, like ponte does, but doesn’t have as soft of a drape. Your skirt will stick out a bit more away from your body.

Other fabrics that are very similar are liverpool, true neoprene and techno. They will all feel, stretch and drape about the same.

Fukuro: Soft to the touch with a nice stretch. The face of fabric has texture to it while the back has a smooth finish. It is a more structured knit and skirt will again stick out away from body more.

Cotton Lycra: This semi-opaque knit has a soft hand. Most commonly has both horizontal and vertical stretch. The word “lycra” is a brand/trademark of spandex. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won’t wash away. Depending on weight you may feel a bit more “revealed” in cotton lycra on the top half, because it isn’t as thick as those listed above. Your skirt will have moderate drape towards the body. The vertical stretch could cause your bodice to pull slightly longer with the weight of the skirt pulling it down. (It was very windy, so the dress is being blown under my booty by the wind! It is not the fabric draping under there naturally!)

You can choose a fabric with a softer drape, like ITY, poly blends, rayon spandex, etc. But they will drape down towards your body. Your skirt will hang on your body instead or stick out away from it. We still recommend one that has good weight for the bodice to hold shape well and since it is fitted to help not show lumps,bumps,bra lines, etc.

Now that you’ve chosen your fabrics, share them with us! Tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. And be sure to post your fabric picks in our event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us! We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart + Me Hearties SAL: Get Ready!

March 13, 2016

Get excited. Why? Because Patterns for Pirates is having our first Sew-A-Long! Our timing couldn’t be more perfect for Easter sewing either…because it’s for the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Dresses! Eep!

The SAL (sew-a-long) begins on Monday, but that doesn’t mean you can’t start planning it all out ahead of time. Because these are full circle skirts, they do take a bit more fabric than a basic tee/dress would…so start digging through your stash or head out to your local fabric shop to make sure you have enough to make your perfect dress (or peplum).

And don’t forget to join us in the Event Page for the Sew-A-Long on Facebook: HERE.
The SAL itself will be on this very blog, but we will be extending the party over to the group and event on Facebook for even more interactive fun!

And before we go…here is the schedule, so you know what to expect from us. We will even be throwing in some new tricks and pattern hacks, so you can get even more out of these adorable patterns. Can’t wait!!

Exposed Seams Boutique Look Hack

March 8, 2016

I’ve seen the boutique french terry raglan with exposed seams countless times in the group, pinterest, and other sewing boards over the past couple years! I made one about a year ago, but never wrote up a blog about how to get the look. We’re still asked for it all the time, so I did another one while we’re updating the Women’s Raglan to include the extended plus sizes and new features our newest P4P patterns have, like layers. It’s looser fit is perfect for french terry, which is what the boutique ones are always made of and gives the same “slouchy” looser fit.

Overall, it is a really basic “hack”. But, I’m going to have to beg forgiveness for the photos! Apparently I did not check my photos as I was taking them and they are not great quality! Hopefully you can enjoy my Peter Pan-esque comedic shadow in them!

You will cut out your pieces exactly the same as a normal raglan for the main shirt. If you want to add the cowl with unfinished bottom edge you will cut 2 like the pattern states, but NOT on the fold. You could still cut on the fold to keep the fullness and just not sew in the bottom edge as well. Depending on how thick your fabric is and how big you want your cowl. I easily get claustrophobic with things around my neck, so one layer not on the fold was an easy decision for me ;).

When assembling the sleeves to the bodice front and back you will put WRONG sides together and stitch with your sewing machine using your favorite stretch stitch.

Trim the notches and smooth out your seam allowance.

Press seams out. You could top-stitch here if you preferred, but I left it open and free 😉 I thought it went with the look better.

Sew down side seams with right sides together, like you would normally.

I added the inseam pocket option from the Add on Pack as well (I can’t seem to make a tunic length without this option anymore!). I went with hemming the front to the right side to show the wrong side there as well.

For my hems I left them all raw and allowed them to roll up towards the front to show the wrong sides there too.

I attached the cowl the same way as the tutorial states, but only attaching one raw edge of the cowl to the neckline instead of two.

Done! Now you have a lovely boutique look that was such an easy sew and hack!

Sweet Tee + Sugar Pie Dolman Pattern Release!

March 8, 2016

Guess what today is? You betcha! It’s a P4P pattern release day!

We are coming at you live with another double release, for both women and girls. Remember the sneak peek at the we had in last month’s newsletter? It’s finally here!

The Sweet Tee (women’s) and Sugar Pie (girl’s) tops (Bundled here) will quickly create a dolman-sewing addiction. They are incredibly quick and super darling on all body types. The pattern features a semi-fitted silhouette and a dolman-style sleeve…as well as our tried-and-true jam packed amount of options. You’re bound to become as obsessed with this top as we are.

Multiple sleeve options (short, 3/4 and long), multiple hems (curved/tall and short waistbands/shirt length/dress length) and a variety of finishes for the neckband will give you endless options. There is nothing better than having a trusted pattern you can use over and over again, and the Sweet Tee + Sugar Pie will not disappoint.

Just ask our fabulous testers!

And we can’t leave our our mini models:

Make sure to head over to our Facebook Group and check out the tester albums there! You’ll never fall short of inspiration with our amazing group of sewists. (But you know that already. Am I right?)

What are you waiting for? Go grab yourself a copy of the newest dolman tees!

Find the women’s Sweet Tee HERE
Find the girl’s Sugar Pie HERE
And best of all…find the Sweet Tee/Sugar Pie Bundle HERE (gotta love mommy and me versions!)

We can’t wait to see what you make!

15K Member Celebration!!

February 24, 2016

I’m pretty sure we blinked and the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group welcomed it’s 15,000th member. And then we blinked a few more times and we’re closer to the 16K mark at this point! It’s been amazing being surrounded by a bunch of women (and some men too!) who love sewing, supporting each other, and the patterns that we’ve put out over the last few years.

We wanted to thank you for being so awesome. And what better way to do that than by having an AMAZING giveaway?

Get ready to drool, you guys. ONE lucky winner will walk away with a crazy amount of prizes.

This wouldn’t be possible without our fabulous sponsors:

And on top of it all, P4P is sponsoring by giving away a Silhouette Cameo. Now you can sew up your favorite Patterns for Pirates designs and put some awesome HTV designs on them yourself. No longer will you envy everyone else’s graphic tees…because you can create your very own!

Be sure to enter into the giveaway and don’t forget to leave our sponsors some love! Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveawa
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#PINspiredPirates :: The Winners!

February 9, 2016

The moment you’ve all been waiting for…..can I get a drumroll please?!?
I’m here to announce the winner of the #PINspiredPirates contest. Well, WINNERS. Because we couldn’t pick just one. There were so many amazing entries!

Most Entries: Kelly Stevens

Most Swoonworthy Replica: Jenny Sherman Richards

Most Patterns Used for a Single Look: Alex Radu

Best Copycat: Nicole Adams @ThePaperDollCo

Best Admission of Guilty Pleasures: Megan Thoman

Honorable Mentions: Amanda Travaglini

Meg McFadden Sterk

CONGRATULATIONS to all of the winners! And thank you so much to everyone who played along with us. It was a fun month full of sewing and creative inspiration!

How to Measure Yourself

February 8, 2016

One of the most important things in sewing for yourself is to get accurate measurements! It is also much harder than it sounds. I had my sister take a few quick pictures of me measuring so I could explain and give a few tips.

I took my pictures in a tight tank. I recommend taking your measurements in a thin/tight shirt or even just in the bra you are going to normally wear. (This is especially important if you are going to be making a more formal garment and plan on wearing a different bra for it- think strapless, push up, etc).

I HIGHLY recommend measuring in front of a mirror! This helps you really see where you are measuring and if you are holding it evenly around your body. It can mean a big difference!

On all measurements breath normally! Most people want to take a big breathe in and then take them— no need! Patterns are drafted with ease to breathe and move normally 🙂 So breathe in and out, then measure. You want to hold the tape snug to your body, but not squeezing.

Here are some common measurements needed for a pattern:

Bust— Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust. You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

Over Bust– This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

Under Bust– This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

High Hip– This is taken around your hip bones (this is where I like to wear my pants 😉 and most youth patterns are drafted to hit)

Hip– This is a deceiving name. It is measured around your fullest/biggest part, which is usually your booty. Most definitely my booty is my biggest part 😉 Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible (a mirror really helps on this one!)

Waist– This is your natural waistline. Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants). It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section. if you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

This is your natural waist 🙂

Side Waist Length– Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist. This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist like the Sweetheart Dress or Boundless Knit Dress. Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit. If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage 😉

You can see here mine is about 8.75″. For reference the avg is 8″. I’m 5’10” :).

*Updated* I had a few more questions about the side waist length. So I’ve added a couple more pictures— THIS is how much I LOVE my group, I’m willing to put up pictures in my sports bra 4 months after I had a baby!!!! They are cropped very well 😉

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

Thigh- Taken around thigh close to crotch, keeping the measuring tape flat horizontally around.

Total Crotch Length- Taken from back center natural waist, under booty, through legs, and up to center front natural waist. You will want the tape pulled taut. The easiest way I think is to tape the center back and then pull through front and read at the front. These are measured with tight, high waisted yoga pants here:

Inseam- Taken from crotch to where you’d like hem of pants. Notice the close up of my ankle here. The difference between ankle height (for skinny leg options like Peg Legs and SOS pants) and a floor length is 3″ on me! That’s a big difference!

Arm length-from armpit to hem of shirt. Most P4P patterns are meant to hit at the base of thumb, so past the wrist. It’s just a personal preference of mine– so if you prefer the traditional wrist length here is where you’d want to measure against the finished measurement in the pattern.

Finished lengths- I will use “inside shoulder to hem” on some shirts and “armpit to hem” on others depending on which is easiest to measure on that particular pattern. Here are both:

Take your time measuring yourself to ensure great fit! It will make a big difference in how happy you are with the outcome!

Calling All Sweethearts!

February 3, 2016

P4P is releasing a new pattern. Well wait, TWO new patterns! And they’re super sweet. Pun intended.

The Sweetheart Dress + Peplum for women and the Me Hearties Dress + Peplum for girls are releasing today and we are down right excited about it. Every single tester, no matter the size or age, looks amazing in this style…and you will too. No joke.

Like all Patterns for Pirates designs, the Sweetheart and Me Hearties patterns are as full of options as they come. Several skirt lengths, a peplum, multiple sleeve lengths, and a color block option make for an endless amount of choices for your perfect feminine (or girly!) look.

The silhouette is incredibly flattering on all figures. Just look at our testers! The bodice is meant to hit at your true waist (aka: your skinniest point) and the easy-to-attach circle skirt flows perfectly down from it. Try not to drool while looking at all of these amazing sews!

Just wait until you see the girlies in their Me Hearties!! All the heart eyes, right?

Make sure to head over to our Facebook Group and check out the tester album there! There are even more pictures and styles to draw inspiration from while you start to dream up your perfect peplum/dress.

Find the women’s Sweetheart Dress + Peplum HERE
Find the girl’s Me Hearties Dress + Peplum HERE
And best of all…find the Sweetheart/Me Hearties Bundle HERE (and go make a million mommy and me versions!)

We can’t wait to see what you make!

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