Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Take the Plunge Swimsuit :: New Pattern Release!

Just about this time last year, we released our first ever swim patterns.  The Siren Swim Top and Hello Sailor Bottoms have received a lot of love, but we still had a lot of requests for a one-piece suit.  Your wishes are being fulfilled today, with the brand spankin’ new release of the Take the Plunge Swimsuit!

Take the Plunge will make you want to swim all summer long.  We’ve done all we can to pack it full of options and to make it flattering for ALL body types, sizes XXS – Plus 3X.

This is an intermediate knit pattern, and fits in a traditional, body hugging, one-piece swimwear style.  The suit is fully lined and includes directions to add bust support (swim cups / power mesh / under bust elastic).  All of your seams are enclosed for that professional finish, and the edges are all finished with elastic so you will be completely secure in your suit while taking a dip in the pool.

The pattern features a cross-over front bodice that plunges a little lower for a sexy look, while still keeping you contained, covered, and secure.  The waistband hits at and slightly above the natural waistline, to create an extra slimming silhouette, and is also great for color blocking.  And the leg openings come up a little higher in the front for a longer, leaner look.  There are three band-back options (high back with straight straps / low back with cross straps / halter back), two bottom types (plain / ruched) and an additional option for a skirted bottom in two lengths (peplum / full).

The retro vibe of the Take the Plunge Swimsuit will be a classic for years to come and can be paired with so many different fabric prints for unlimited looks!

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.

And now let’s see some suits!

FRONT CROSS-OVER BODICE

HIGH BACK, with straight straps

LOW BACK, with cross straps

HALTER BACK

PLAIN BOTTOMS

RUCHED BOTTOMS

OPTIONAL SKIRTED BOTTOMS

Feeling inspired to go buy all the swim knits now and sew a million suits for yourself?  Before you do, don’t forget to snag the Take the Plunge Swimsuit pattern HERE.

And don’t think we’d leave you with only the original pattern.  We’ve explored the extra potential of Take the Plunge and have an entire set of pattern SWIM HACKS and even a DRESS + PEPLUM HACK.

Needing more inspiration?  Head over to our Facebook Group Album, where are gorgeous testers of every shape and size have shared their versions!  Happy Sewing, friends!

Take the Plunge Swim :: Easy Hacks

The ultimate one piece swimsuit is here and it’s packed with so many options. Mix and match the halter, low back or high back with any of the bottoms styles for a unique look every time but in true P4P fashion we could not have released this pattern without some easy hacks to get you even more looks out of your Take the Plunge Swimsuit.

First on the hack line up is a super easy swicharoo! 🙂 Simply switch the half circle skirt included in the Take the Plunge swimsuit with the rushed skirt of the Hello Sailor  Swim Bottoms.

This “retro” look is so easy to achieve when using the ties option of the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms. If you prefer to use the elastic rushing option included in the tutorial  you can certainly do that too.

I used the low back option of the Take the Plunge swimsuit but either one of the other tops would look amazing with the skirted bottoms. Make yourself a high back option and you’ll be ready to chase your little ones at the beach this summer. 🙂

There was no alteration needed to make to the pattern.  Follow the tutorial for the Take the Plunge swimsuit and replace the skirt included with the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms skirt. Easy peasy!

Alex

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For another quick and easy way to mix up this pattern, try modifying the straps!  In this example, I’ll show you how to hack the halter back and straps into a trendy criss-cross.

1. When cutting out your halter straps, you don’t need to cut the pointed tip.  Just straight across is easier.  For me, the length worked as-is, but if you are extra tall (I am 5’8″), you may want to cut a couple extra inches just to be safe.

2. Assemble the pattern as the instructions direct, until you get to the step for adding the elastic in the back.

3. After you’ve added the elastic, on each side, mark the middle point between the center back and the side seams. (I happened to take this picture before I added the elastic, don’t be confused by that part!)

4. Pin/clip (or baste) the straps in place where you’ve marked – make sure to cross them and that they aren’t crooked.  You’ll want to try it on at this point to make sure the strap lengths are comfortable.  I found that I needed to attach the straps about 1.5″ from the end.

5. Once you know exactly where you want the straps placed, now you’re ready to sew them down.  There’s multiple ways you could do this, but I found this method reduced bulk the most.

6. With your strap facing up, sew it through the elastic on the back.  This area will receive a lot of stress so make sure to use a good stitch – I like the triple stretch stitch or zigzag.

7. Now turn your elastic edge down to get ready to top-stitch along the edge as the pattern instruction indicate.

8. Before you top-stitch, pull the straps upwards again.  Now, you’ll also catch the strap as you top-stitch along the back of the suit.

9. That’s it!  Now finish the suit as usual.

Have fun experimenting different ways to change up these straps.  You could try using the low back option instead of the halter,  double or even triple straps on each side, or even weave them together for a completely different look!

– Elisabeth

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Not really a one piece kind of girl?  Whether you like to rock a bikini or prefer a little more coverage of a tankini,  with a few minor changes you can Take the Plunge to new depths (or looks 😉 )

First up, the Peplum Tankini.  I also had some fun and played with the straps a little and might blog those later but for now we will focus on the peplum.

Instead of attaching the skirt to the bottom portion of the waistband as directed in the pattern, you will attach it the to the bottom edge of the bodice.  Using a 1:1 ratio, add 3/8″ elastic and stitch together!  This will give you some extra stability and help keep the top in place. I wanted the skirt to hit just about my high hip so shortened the peplum length in the pattern by 1″.  You can choose any length of your preference though.  I paired this with the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms, however you could easily use the bottoms in the Take the Plunge Swimsuit (I’ll show those later too!)

 

 

Now for the Bikini option…  Not one, but two!!

For this version, you will construct your top exactly as the pattern instructs and need to choose the low back crossover version.  You will also need a 3/4″ swim bra hook.

Construct your top exactly as you would in the pattern.  Once you have completed your top, find the center back and clip.  Be sure to baste the bottom edge of your bodice to ensure it is aligned correctly at the center notch and side seams. (Note: bottom edge has not been basted in this pic)

Using a 1:1 ratio, stitch elastic to the lining side along the bottom of the bodice edge.  Flip up and top-stitch.

Slide one end in to the swim bra hook and stitch.  Fold over opposite end and stitch, creating a hole for the hook to go through.

To create the separate Take the Plunge bottoms, construct as the pattern indicates.  Using a 1:1 ratio, stitch 3/8″ elastic to the lining side of the top edge of the bottoms.  Flip down and top-stitch.  I used the ruched version here with only the side elastic and omitted the front and back elastic ruching.

 

Our second bikini hack is super cute and ties around the back.  You will want to use the Halter back (or even the full back) option for this version.

 First, create your bikini straps.  Cut a 1.5″ x 15″ strip.  You can adjust the length to your preference depending on how long you would like your ties.

Now, on to the bodice. I trimmed the bottom 1″ off the bodice before beginning.

 

Looking for more inspiration?  Be sure to check out our Facebook album with all the lovely tester pics and how to take the pattern one step further and turn it in to a gorgeous top or dress HERE!

 

 

 

 

Take the Plunge Swimsuit :: Dress & Peplum Hack

We are all loving the new Patterns for Pirates Take the Plunge Swimsuit that was just released! So naturally, we had to take this pattern a step further and morph it into some cute apparel! In this tutorial I am going to show you how to add some super cute skirts in place of the swim bottoms to create adorable everyday garments! As a total bonus you can follow the swim pattern instructions to add built in bra cups and under bust support. How awesome!

:: Fabric Requirements ::

This pattern is intended for pretty sturdy but stretchy swim knit. So in order to turn this into a comfortable dress I recommend choosing a main (outside) fabric that has both great 4-way stretch and good recovery. Brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex and maybe a very very stretchy scuba or liverpool would work. For the bodice lining you will want to choose something light and stretchy such as rayon spandex or brushed poly. All versions pictured in this tutorial were made using double brushed poly spandex. Also, you do not need to use swim elastic on this, regular braided elastic is sufficient. I will also detail how you may omit the elastic altogether for the full back option.

:: Assemble your Bodice ::

First things first. Go ahead, cut out all pieces of your bodice exactly as instructed in the pattern. None of these pieces need to be altered. You can choose any strap/back option. Choose to add bra cups and under bust support elastic if you feel like having an all-in-one dress! I personally love the push up bra cups for a little extra support when going with the all-in-one option. Remember, you do not need to use swim elastic for non-swim garments. Traditional braided elastic will be a little easier to sew with. Go ahead and assemble the bodice exactly as instructed by the pattern and skip to the Skirt Options portion of this tutorial.

{Optional} :: If you are choosing not to include bra cups, you are using the full back option AND you are using a sturdier fabric like brushed poly or cotton spandex, you may omit the elastic. Fabrics like rayon spandex and ITY, and built in bras that provide support do require that elastic be used to prevent your straps from stretching out. Also, the low back or halter version likewise require elastic to hold the dress up. To omit the elastic follow along with these next steps before getting to the skirt options.

First construct the front bodice pieces as instructed by the tutorial. You can skip the part when you clip the inner strap to fold it over and attach elastic. Instead sew the entire length up the strap to give a nice seam.

Next attach the main back bodice to the lining back bodice by laying them right sides together and stitching along the neckline. Then match up all bodice pieces at the shoulders right sides together and stitch.

Topstitch inner neckline now if preferred. Next, lay your bodice out and fold the back bodice over on top of the front bodice pieces, matching up side seams main fabric to main fabric. Stitch side seams together and then baste the front bodice pieces together along the bottom as instructed in the pattern tutorial.

At this point you can baste stitch the outer armholes to prevent fabric shifting. I chose to run my serger around them. Fold the unfinished edges under about 3/8″  and topstitch armholes in place. The burrito roll method to enclose the armholes cleanly does not work here. There is simply too much fabric on the front bodice to work around. Now it’s time to add your skirt!

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:: Skirt Options ::

There are 3 skirt options that I will show you. The first option is a super fun peplum length. Cut your peplum piece to match the “skirt length” on the swimsuit pattern. I suggest measuring yourself for a preferred peplum length and double checking it against the pattern. You might want to shorten it up an inch or possibly add length depending. See  the option below for more details on how to measure your skirt length. Once cut, simply follow the pattern directions and omit the swim bottoms to complete the top.

NOTE: The “peplum length” on the swim pattern will be too short for an everyday top.

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Next, I will show you an above the knee half circle skirt option. Decide where you would like your dress to land and measure skirt length by holding the end of the tape at your natural waist and allowing the tape to drape along your body. Add 1/2″ to that measurement for your bottom hem and another 3/8″ for your seam allowance. I also like to add an extra inch or so to this measurement just to be safe! You can always trim the hem length down at the end but you can’t easily add extra later! Place your TTP skirt pattern on your fabric and measure out as indicated below. Alternatively you can grab skirt lengths from the Patterns for Pirates Sweetheart Peplum and Dress for the ‘at the waist’ option if you already own that pattern.

Take the Plunge swimsuit dress peplum hack

Cut out your skirt piece, trying to keep your curve as even as possible. Cut your waistband (main and lining as indicated the the pattern) and assemble as instructed omitting the swim bottoms. Attach your waistband/skirt to your bodice. I do recommend cutting both the main waistband and the lining waistband to add structure. Try on your dress for length, hem it and you’re finished!

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For the final option I will detail how to add a gathered skirt in place. This option is really simple. If you own the Boundless dress pattern you can simply attach the waistband from the TTP pattern instructions to the gathered skirt size from the Boundless. If you don’t own that one you can simply cut your rectangle skirt piece by doubling the waistband length and finding your desired skirt length through measuring as described in the previous option. Cut two skirt panels and sew them together if your fabric isn’t wide enough. Direction of greatest stretch should go across the 2x waistband length. See Illustration below:

Gather one of the doubled waistband length sides by running a long baste stitch across and pulling the bobbin thread. Fit and sandwich the gathered end between the waistband pieces being sure the main fabrics are right sides together. Stitch in place.

Fold the long ends of the skirt to meet right sides together. Stitch down the entire side seam, from waistband to bottom of the skirt. Now attach your skirt/waistband to your bodice, right sides together. Try on your dress and hem to the appropriate length. You’re all done!

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So you can see how versatile this swim pattern really is! I hope you have all found this tutorial to be helpful. Go forth, make some swimsuits, peplum tanks and dresses for the summer. Share them with us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group. Don’t forget to check out the TTP pattern release roundup for some more swimsuit photos and check out the hack post for some more fun Take the Plunge swimsuit options!

 

5 tips for adding neckbands

So you spent an hour picking the perfect fabric, perfect coordinates and matching thread. You’ve sewn your favorite P4P shirt and you only have one step left…the dreaded neckband. That’s when you start panicking and getting nervous about attaching the neckband and finishing your outfit. Fear no more!

Today on the blog I will give you 5 tips that will help you achieve that perfect neckband you are striving for all the time.

1. Choose the right fabric for your neckband!

Neckbands will be stretched when you attach them, they will be stretched when you put on or take off the shirt, so it is very important that fabric you use for the neckband has great stretch and great recovery. My favorite type of materials for neckbands are cotton spandex, rayon spandex, ribbing and rib knit. You can get away with using some brushed poly as long as the recovery is good. Avoid, scuba, french terry and 2 way poly blends.

 

2. Always cut the neckband cross-grain!

Never cut your neckbands along the grain. Even if your fabric has 4 way stretch (which it should) the vertical stretch is not going to be as much as the horizontal one. If you don’t have enough of the main fabric to cut the neckband is best to use a coordinating fabric than cutting the neckband along the grain.

 

3. Mark the quarters of your neckband and neck opening!

It’s very important that you find and pin (or clip) the quarter points of the neckband and neck opening. After you have sewn the neckband RTS at the ends so you have a loop, fold it length wise and mark where the seam is. This will be the back of your neck band.  The center front of the neckband will be on the opposite side. Now fold it in half bringing the center front and back markings together. The fold will mark your two quarters.

To find the front and back  neck opening centers, bring the shoulder seams wrong side together. Where centers will be where the folds are. Mark them with a pin, a clip or a small snip. With the fabric still laying flat, bring the center front and back together. Your quarter marks will be at the folds. Mark them as well. You will see that the side neck opening quarter marks are NOT at the shoulder seam. The front opening is larger than the back opening.

For all you visual learners, here is a video of the process.

 

 

4. Use the right stitches!

Avoid using a straight stitch when attaching the neckband. As I mentioned earlier, the neckband will be stretched and pulled so you want to make sure the stitches are up to the job. If you are using only your sewing machine, attach the neckband with either a stretch stitch or a narrow zig zag stitch. I prefer to use my serger for this step but it is not mandatory. Once you attached the neckband, press the seam allowance towards the shirt. You will now be top stitching it down with your coverstitch machine or your sewing machine. You can top stitch with a wide zig zag stitch, a stretch stitch or twin needles. Be sure to check out our Twin Needles tips and tricks blog too.

You can see how I attached the neckbands here:

 

5. Press, press, and steam some more!

If you’ve followed the tips I gave you and notice a slight waviness, don’t panic. It’s normal when sewing knits especially if they are on the bias (as is part of the neck opening). Go back to your ironing board and give the neckline a good hefty steam press. Most of the times my neckbands are cotton spandex based and I crank up my ironing machine all the way to the “linen” setting. Make sure you test the heat of your iron on a scrap fabric first. If your shirt is poly based you will need a lower ironing temperature, you do not want to melt your fabric 🙂

There you have it! 5 easy to follow steps to achieve a perfect neckband all the time!

Happy sewing, pirates!

P4P University:: Knit Binding 101

With our recent release of the Cross my Heart and Heart Breaker Cami patterns, we’ve had some questions and hesitation about the straps… because, well, they look scary!  They may look intimidating but they truly are not as bad as they appear.  We’re going to show you a few different ways to do knit binding and hopefully help ease those fears.

What is Knit Binding?

  • There are two main methods to finish a neckline or armhole.  Knit bands are an extension of the neckline and probably the most recognizable finishing method for a traditional T-Shirt (rose floral shown below). We’ll dive in to bands on another post ;).  Knit binding is done similar to bias tape binding, which is typically used on woven fabrics and encloses the raw edge of the neckline but does not extend above and away from it (ivory floral shown below).

Tools to create successful knit binding:

  • Use fabric with spandex.  You will yield better results with fabric that has great stretch and recovery.  Not sure what fabrics to use? Check out our Knit Fabric Cheat Sheet.
  • Steam iron:  One of the best tips to create even and professional looking binding is to press, press and press again.  Throughout the entire process of binding your garment, hitting your binding with some steam will help it bounce back to shape and keep a clean, crisp fold which is easier to turn and top-stitch.
  • Ball Point or Stretch Needles:  Whenever using knit fabric, stretch or ball point needles are always recommended.  The needle tip slips between the knit fibers and does not break or damage them while sewing.  Stretch needles are mostly used with fabrics that have a higher percentage of stretch (think swimwear or athletic fabrics) but most prefer to use them for all types of knits.
  • Pins or clips: Pinning or clipping your binding, especially when you get to the later steps to turn and top-stitch is a life-saver.  Once you become more comfortable with binding, you may not need as many but it’s always best to clip more now than regret it later.
  • Optional: Blind Hem Foot – this helps keep an even straight line along the edge of your binding when top-stitching.

Both the cami patterns, the Sweetheart and Me Hearties Dress, and Essential Tank use knit binding to finish the necklines, armholes or sleeves but you can apply this method to other tops and skirts in lieu of bands or hemming.  Just be sure to take in to account your seam allowances and band heights as they will finish lower or higher if no adjustments are made.

Methods to do knit binding:

  • Serger: (this method is used in the Cross my Heart and Heart Breaker Cami).  Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, the binding is serged to the neckline or armhole with the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the main fabric.  The seam allowance is pressed up with binding folded up and over the serged edge and then top-stitched.

  • Sewing Machine: (this method is used as an option in the Sweetheart and Me Hearties Dress and Essential Tank).  The binding is pre-pressed in quarters (double folds).  Using a stretch stitch (narrow zigzag, lightening bolt, or triple stretch stitch), with right side of the binding to the wrong side of the main fabric, the binding is stitched along the crease. The seam allowance is pressed up with binding folded up and over the raw edge and then top-stitched.

  • Serger or Sewing Machine: Using a 1/4″ to 3/8″ seam allowance the binding is stitched with right sides of the binding to the right side of the main fabric.  The seam allowance is pressed up and binding folded over the edge to the wrong side of the fabric and then top-stitched.  The excess binding is trimmed at the seam-line.

 

There are multiple options for Top-stitching binding.  Here are few of our favorites:

  • Twin Needle: Double straight stitch on front and zig-zag on back.  (Elisabeth walked us through using a twin needle a few posts back and is a great resource for top-stitching the knit binding using a regular sewing machine.  In case you missed it, be sure to check it out HERE!)
  • Coverstitch: single or double needle: straight stitch on the front with a stretch zig-zag stitch on the back.
  • Narrow Zig-Zag: Gives the appearance of a straight stitch but still has some stretch.
  • Triple Step Zig-Zag:  This is great for swimwear or high stretch areas.

 

Need more help?  Here’s a video of the binding options described above 🙂

 

Hopefully this answered your questions about knit binding and eased some of your fears.  Just remember, press and go slow!  As with any new skill, it takes time to master, so keep practicing and you’ll have added another finishing method to your sewing arsenal.

Finished a project using knit binding? Be sure to share in our Facebook Group! We’d love to see it.

 

 

 

Mama Bear Joggers :: Stretch Woven

 

Joggers have been a really popular trend lately. A big reason, aside from the pure comfort, is because they can be dressed down with a pair of sandals or they can be dressed up with some heels for a day out in the city. But did you know? The Patterns for Pirates Mama Bear Joggers (as well as Papa and baby of course) only require 20% stretch! This leaves SO many options to choose from when deciding on fabric to sew your own. Inspired by Judy’s olive poplin version (below), I sewed up a couple joggers for myself in some other fabric options.

While rummaging around for something to use, I discovered some stretch denim that was hiding away in my fabric stash. I just knew it would be perfect! This denim is about 25% stretch and wears incredibly comfortably. I wear these joggers around the house or I like to style them with a pair of heels and a blousey, loose or fitted tank top for a day out. The denim definitely adds some structure to the pants but certainly does not take away from the comfort.

I also found some stretch twill in my stash and knew I HAD to whip up a pair of summer shorts with it! I used the Mama Bear pattern in shorts length, but added about 2.5″ to the bottom hem line in order to do the roll-up hem instead. I love the look of it over the traditional version for this purpose. Some ribbon in my stash was used for the drawstring and really finished off the look. These are just seriously cute and comfortable!

So next time you’re at the fabric store or digging around in your stash at home, break out your stretch ruler (you can find one in Judy’s cheat sheet) and then use those stretch wovens!

::: Written by Kelly Bailey – P4P Blog Contributor :::

Read more about sewing joggers for the entire family here!

Read some easy Bear Jogger hacks here!

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Peg Legs SAL: Day 7 – Recap and winners announcement

We made it to the last day of the Peg Legs sew along. You all did an amazing job this past week! I’ve seen so many beautiful pairs of Peg Legs being sewn.

Let’s recap what we did so far:

Day 1: Fabric selection

Day 2: Printing and measuring

Day 3: Cutting the fabric

Day 4: Attach add ons

Day 5: Sew inseam and attach legs

Day 6: Attach waistband

Without further ado…here are our 5 Peg Leg SAL winners

 

First winner: Sarah Wilkinson

$15 P4P store credit

$50 So Sew English store credit

$50 Stika Fabrics store credit

$50 Midnight Mountain Fabrics store credit

$25 Beanpop store credit

$50 RP Custom Fabrics store credit

 

Second winner:  Erin Cooper

$15 P4P store credit

$50 Aurora Designs store credit

$50 Little Bear Fabric + Trim store credit

$50 Smoogie Custom Fabric store credit

$25 Little Lady Bug Fabrics Gift Card

$30 Store Credit($50 NZD) Levana Fabrics

 

Third winner: Raven Brown

$15 P4P store credit

$60 Boss Lady Fabric store credit

$50 The Fabric Snob store credit

$50 RockerBye Destash Fabric store credit

$50 Water Tower Textiles Canada store credit

€25 Droomstoffen store credit

 

Fourth winner: Lorie Peugh Judd

$15 P4P store credit

$50 Made Whimsy/ You Made Something store credit

$25  Star Dust & Moon Beam Textile Company gift card to each store

$50 Pretty Posh Prints store credit

$50 Sash Fabrics store credit

$30 Phat Quarters store credit

Big prize winner: Phillipa Lyes

$50 P4P store credit

$100 Sincerely Rylee store credit

$75 Sew Vagabond store credit

LFRB full of fabric from Sly Fox Fabrics

$50 True North Fabrics store credit

$50 Sweet N Charmed Fabric store credit

 

Congratulations to all of the winner and all participants! Please contact the shop owners to claim your prizes.

 

Thank you to the sponsors who made all these amazing prizes possible. Be sure to check out their awesome fabric selections!

Made Whimsy Fabric

Sew Vagabond

Sly Fox Fabrics

True North Fabrics

Sincerely Rylee

RP Custom Fabrics

Smoogie Fabric and Design

Sitka Fabrics

Star Dust and Moon Beam Textile Company

Levana Fabrics

Midnight Mountain Fabrics

Water Tower Textiles

Droomstoffen

Aurora Designs

Boss Lady Fabrics

Little Bear Fabric and Trim

Sash Fabrics

Rockerbye  Destash

The Fabric Snob

So Sew English

Fabricmail Sweet N Charmed

Phat Quarters, Pretty Posh Prints

Little Ladybug Fabrics.

Peg Legs SAL: Day 6 – Attach waistband (with optional pocket)

Can’t believe we’re almost at the end of the sew along. Today we’ll be attaching the waistband. Whether you’re doing the high or low rise or the contoured waistband like I did, now is the time to add it to the leggings. This step can also be done with the sewing machine or the serger. If you use a sewing machine, remember to set it for a stretch stitch. A triple stretch stitch will work great!

If you are attaching your waistband with your serger you can either do a regular overlock stitch or you can even do a flat lock stitch. Using a flatlock stitch will eliminate the bulk at the seam that you get with an overlock stitch.

For this sew along I used the new contoured  waistband which, let me tell you, is the best thing ever! Best tummy control while still comfortable.

It is very important to cut your fabric along the grain. We have seen some FB comments suggesting to cut the waistbands against the grain for more support. I highly discourage that because your peg legs will loose shape in the wash and will not fit as intended.

TIP: If you are more of a rectangular shape than hourglass, you can add elastic to the top seam of your contoured waistband.

You can see the waistband construction video here.

Don’t forget to post your final picture in the Peg Legs SAL event and hastag it #peglegsSAL before May 3rd 10 pm EST. Be sure to come back on Wednesday for the Sew Along recap and the winners announcement.

Peg Legs SAL: Day 5 – Sew Inseam and attach legs

Welcome to day 5 of the Peg Legs Sew Along! Today we will be sewing the inseam, hemming each leg and attaching them. Start by pinning (or clipping) the inseams on each leg, right sides together. You can either serger it or stitch it with your sewing machine. If you use your sewing machine for this step, make sure to use a stretch stitch!

If you’re using your serger, test the stitches on a scrap piece of fabric, preferably the same as the one you used for your pegs.  Testing first will give you a chance to see if you need to make any adjustments to the tension or stitch length or width.

Once you’ve sewn the inseams you can either hem or sew the crotch curves. I prefer to hem first because I find it easier to maneuver if the legs are not attached together. When hemming your Peg Legs make sure you steam press before and after you stitch. You can use your coverstitch machine or your sewing machine for this step, just remember to use a stretch stitch.

Last step of the day is sewing the crotch curve. Pin or clip the curve right sides together, matching the inseam and the back and front rise. The easiest way to do this is to turn one of the legs inside out and place the other leg (right side out) inside.

You can see the day 5 video here !

When you’ve finished these steps, don’t forget to post a picture in the Peg Legs SAL Event and hashtag it #pegsalday5.

Peg Legs SAL: Day 4 – Sew add ons (pocket, color block, side strip etc)

Hello there! Day 4 is here and we’re starting to sew! Woohoo! Today we’ll be putting the leg pieces together. If you added a pocket, or a side strip, or color blocked the side strip, now is the time to put them together.

I love to work “assembly line style” so I pin…well clip…all pieces together first. Then sew/serge and then topstitch. If you are using a sewing machine make sure you use a stretch stitch like the “thunderbolt” , a triple stretch stitch or a very narrow zig zag. When top stitching with a sewing machine I highly recommend using twin needles. Check out the Twin Needles Blog for some tips and tricks!

For my SAL Peg Legs pair I stitched with my serger and topstitch with the coverstitch machine. You can see how I put together the add ons in the day 4 video here!

If you want to take it up a notch you can use decorative top stitching too. The Decorative stitching blog is an excellent source for all of you who would like to take the Peg Legs up a notch!

 

Once you’ve assembled your leg pieces post a picture in the Peg Legs SAL Event and hash tag it #pegsalday4. See you back here tomorrow!

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