Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

P4P University – plackets

 

Ohhh….plackets! Why are you so scary? Today on the blog I’m hoping to change that perceptions of them and help you face this fear.

What are plackets?

Plackets are basically just a slit or an opening in the fabric that allows for garments to be easily put on or taken off. Sometimes plackets are purely decorative. You can find them on sleeves, on pants, back of skirts and neckline. You can have a placket on the back of the neckline or on the front. The most common neckline front plackets are for Henley or Polo style shirts. On this blog I will be using the new Brunch Blouse placket but you can certainly utilize the same principles for a Yo Ho Henley or a Women or Men Henley shirt too.

 

Interfacing? Yay or nay?

My first tip/recommendation is to always use light weight interfacing for the placket piece. Simply fuse a piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the pattern piece. You can get away with not using any if you’re making a woven pattern but even so, the result will be so much better if you do add it. Interfacing will help stabilize your piece which in turn will make it a lot easier to sew. ALWAYS use interfacing for knit plackets!

Mark and press!

As you can see in the video above, I use a tailor chalk to mark the pressing and sewing lines on the back of the placket piece. You can use a soluble fabric pen or a fabric marker too.

If you have a tailor clapper now would be a good time to use it. It will defiantly come in handy and help keep those pressing marks firm. Spray starch will help too!

Sew slowly!

Make sure you pin a lot and catch any notches that need to be enclosed! This may be the most tedious part of adding a front neckline placket so it is well worth paying extra attention and sewing slowly.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor! 🙂

Now that you took the time to create the perfect placket, show it off! Be proud of your achievement and don’t let sewing techniques intimidate you! Speaking of showing off…don’t forget to brag about your Henleys and Brunch Blouses in the P4P group.

 

Sweet Bow :: Pattern Release/Update!

Summer might be coming to an end, but we’ve still got some “Summer of Wovens” patterns up our sleeves!

Before we get to the fun: If you already own a copy of the original Sweet Bow, you will NOT need to re-purchase to get the updates.  If you bought here (PatternsforPirates.com) or on the Craftsy store, you will simply need to sign into your account and re-download the file.  If your purchase was via Etsy, email help@patternsforpirates.com (WITH PROOF OF PURCHASE) and you will get an updated file.  It’s as easy as that, we promise!

The Sweet Bow is a stylish pattern with a sweetheart neckline, a bodice that hits at the natural waistline, and features a very full and twirly skirt.

This was one of the earlier Patterns for Pirates patterns and we wanted to make sure to update it to the current P4P standards.  The pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in letter and A4 (no A0- it is only 2-3 pages to print!).  We also tweaked the fit for the smallest sizes and added maxi length option for some extra glamour.

The Sweet Bow now features three hemlines (top, dress and maxi), two strap options (cross and easy on-off), and optional bow embellishments (small and mega bow).

**Want to learn more about how to measure for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  In case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And don’t miss out on the Measurement Chart printables, to help keep all of those crazy numbers in one easy-to-reference spot.

Here’s a quick rundown of the options:

Three Hem Lengths

Cross Straps, Small Bow + Mega Bow

 

 

Ready to purchase the Sweet Bow and get to sewing yourself?  Go grab your copy HERE!!  The pattern is on a re-release sale through Sunday, September 10, 2017.

If you’re still needing more inspiration, be sure to head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group Album to see everything our beautiful testers have sewn for their littles.  Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates | #patternsforpirates) and to share your finished items over in our Facebook group!  We love to see what you make!

Happy sewing, friends!

Harvey Relief Thank You!

I wanted to say THANK YOU each and everyone of you that purchased a pattern during my one day only flash sale where I promised to give 100% of profits to Harvey Relief charities.  Blog Post Here.

To say the least I WAS BLOWN AWAY with the response.  We raised an incredible amount to give to the southern coast of Texas, that is in such a huge need right now.

I am so proud to be able to give this donation with your help. Helping those victims of Harvey, who are still without their homes and struggling to find the necessities makes my heart sing. Now when I scroll through my Facebook feed and see my friends and family in those flood areas trying to recover from their losses, I can feel a little better knowing that the P4P community was able to help provide some relief. I can’t imagine how scary of a time this is for them, as they’re still not able to get to their homes, and they have such a long, rough road ahead of them.

 

Together we are able to help so many families in need with over $15k donated.  I split the amount between a few local relief efforts including the Houston Diaper Bank, Houston Food Bank,, the JJ Watt Houston Flood Relief Fund  , and  Texas Association of Fire Fighters (designated directly to Harvey victims).

Each charity has it’s own main focus of relief- which is why I choose to split.  The Food Bank to help get meals to those in the area.  The Diaper Bank to get diapers and other toiletries to those in need in that area- and is one of the things I’ve heard most from local disaster relief efforts that is needed so badly.  The JJ Watt Houston Flood Relief is a very specific fundraiser with goals to help with all immediate needs- clean water being a focus currently as well as future planning to help relieve the re-build and aftermath this storm will leave the areas with.  He has an incredible foundation where there are no fees incurred and is working hard to put the money into the very best action for his city.  Lastly, I gave a small amount to the Texas Association of Fire Fighter- designated specifically to Harvey Relief where some of the fire fighters who are working tirelessly as first responders have also lost everything.  Fire families sacrifice so much to be the first in action and help their community.

I waivored sharing the amount raised for a few days, but I hope if you purchased from the P4P site 8/31/2017 that you share the pride in being able to give to these great charities that will absolutely be making a difference in the victims lives both immediately and down the road when the media has moved on to other headlines.  THANK YOU! If you missed the sale and are disappointed, you can always donate to one of the local charities I choose or another you like.

-Judy

Harvey Relief

As most of you know, I’m a Texan.  The tragedy of Hurricane Harvey came so quick and devastated so many, it’s completely overwhelming.  We know so many friends and family who evacuated, are without their home, had to leave in the shortest notice with nothing but their children in tow, and so on.  There are so many heart-wrenching stories and those that were lucky are doing everything they can to help their neighbors, it’s inspiring.  I was at a loss of what I could do with P4P to help, but I’m hoping together we can raise some funds to send down to my fellow Texans in need.

 

I will be donating 100% profit of all sales made TODAY (August 31, 2017) on the P4P site.  And to try to boost that number I will be doing a site wide sale code (we usually only do site wide sales 2-3 times per year!) Use code: TEXASSTRONG for 20% off your total purchase today only- August 31st, 2017.  To help give the most we can, I’m asking kindly to share without affiliate links today- this will help get every penny to those who are is desperate need.

Turns out I’m not the only PDF Sewing pattern designer thinking of those on the Texas coast either.  My sister, who has huge ties to the southern coast, immediately set down and designed some wonderful Texas Pride cut files and is giving 100% profit of all sold to the Harvey Relief.  You can get them bundled all together here or buy few individually as well.

I loved them so much- I purchased them and made one for each member of my family.  Even my husband asked for one, although I haven’t grabbed his pictures just yet.  My son isn’t quite old enough to understand the situation, but he knew the shirts meant people in Texas needed help and we were going to try to help so he was ready to pose for me unlike he usually does.

I think Megan might have made this saying just for my Baby Girl 😉 She’s always Rarin’ to GO! So many parents with younger kids are now without diapers, formula, bottles, let alone their pacifiers, blankies, lovies…any comfort we can provide those little babies will make my heart lift up.  So many found themselves carrying their small children above the flood waters.

We’re not the only ones that have joined in trying to send funds for the Harvey Relief. A ton of PDF Sewing pattern designers are looking to help and many have set up their own sale codes in their groups! I’m so grateful to be in an industry that is so kind and willing to work together to help others.  I urge you to go take a look at each designer here and make any purchases today while they are giving some proceeds to a Harvey Relief charity.

The Harvey Relief sale codes are only valid TODAY- August 31st, 2017 so please let everyone know that might be interested in PDF Sewing patterns! We will be posting in the P4P Facebook Group where you can tag any friends/members.  Again, if you are an affiliate with P4P or these other designers please remember not to use affiliate links when sharing today so we can give everything we can to the charities.

Thank you, together we can help!

-Judy

Choker Neckline Hack

 

Choker necklines are all the rage right now, so we thought we’d give you the “how-to” so you can add it to your most loved top.  I used the Favorite Tee since it already has a V-neck option but you can really use any of our t-shirt patterns and add a lower scoop neck or v-neck to it.

Once you have decided your pattern and cut your pieces, do not assemble your shirt!  We need to finish the V-neckline first and is easier to do prior to construction.  I chose to bind the V-neck, but you could also use a traditional neckband if you wish.  (Need more help with knit binding? Check out our tips HERE)

 

Next, construct and finish your shirt as indicated in the tutorial, but do not use the existing neckband instructions.  We will now finish the choker portion of the neckline.

I did not want the choker neckband piece to be too high on my neck, so used the Women’s Henley as a guide for placement. You can make your own adjustments if you prefer to have it higher or lower. Place a pin or mark on the neckline where you wish to have the choker band.

 

We are going to use the same binding method as we did the v-neck to finish the choker band.  My binding strip is 2.5″ and finishes about 1″.  Again, this is customizable and if you wish to have a thicker or thinner choker piece, adjust the height of your band accordingly.  (just be sure to add 1/2″ to the height as we will be folding and enclosing the raw edges).

To determine the width of your choker binding:  A + ((B x 2) x 90%)).  For example, my measurement A is 8″. Measurement B is 8″. So my choker band is 8″ + 14.4 (or 8 x 2 then x 90%) = 22.4″ .  To make it a nice even number I just rounded it out to 22.5″.

 

Voila!  You’re all finished.   🙂

 

Tips for adding a woven skirt to a knit bodice

Ahoy, pirates! The Summer of Wovens is in full swing so I wanted to show you how easy it is to add a gathered woven skirt to a knit bodice. You can use this technique to the Boundless dress, like I have, or the Sunshine dress. If you love the bodice of the Sweetheart dress as much as I do you can use it and hack it with a woven gathered skirt too.

The most important thing to keep in mind when adding a woven skirt is CHOOSING THE RIGHT WOVEN fabric. Make sure to use a light weight fabric with great drape. I used a Nicole Miller chiffon and it worked beautifully. You can also use rayon, rayon challis  or crepe georgette. Avoid quilters cotton, it will look stiff and add visual width which we don’t want. Am I right, ladies? 😉

Cut the pieces as per the pattern. You do not need to size up or down, just be sure to measure yourself and choose the size based on that. I do recommend adding some width to the skirt for more comfortable wear. I did not add it to mine but you can certainly increase width by a couple of inches. You can see how to take your measurements here.

Sew the bodice as per the pattern tutorial. I marked the center of the front skirt piece and the back. I like to use clear elastic when I attach the skirt to the bodice. I do that for two reasons, the clear elastic will add stability to the seam and it will help you gather your skirt evenly. Simply cut a piece of elastic that matches the bodice bottom. Don’t forget to add seam allowance! I prefer to cut just one piece and match the elastic seam to the center back but if you prefer to cut two pieces and match the seams to the sides you’re welcome to do that as well.

Mark the quarters of the clear elastic. Mark the side seams and center back and front of the skirt. Remember to mark the to of the skirt if you’re using a fabric with a directional print 🙂

Match the quarters of the skirt to the quarters of the elastic.

Sew the clear elastic to the top of the skirt. Use a zig zag stitch and adjust the tension and width to better fit the type of fabric you are using. Stretch the elastic as you sew. If you use a 1/2″ clear elastic simply align the edge of the elastic to the edge of the skirt. I use 3/8″ clear elastic so I put it a little lower than the edge to accommodate the 1/2″ seam allowance that is followed in this pattern.

All you have to do now is attach the skirt to the bodice. The bottom of the bodice and the top of the skirt will be the same circumference. Match the side seams and the center backs and fronts, pin right sides together and sew.

I like to attach the skirt to the bodice using a zig zag stitch but you can also use a triple stretch stitch.

Optional: top stitch the seam allowance up towards the bodice.

Tadah! You’re all set to rock your new woven skirt Boundless (or Sunshine) dress! I can’t wait to see your take on this easy hack so be sure to post it in the P4P group too!

FREE Printable Measurement Charts

 

I am excited to be sharing this new FREEBIE with you today!  The biggest/best part of sewing for yourself or your family is being able to create custom clothing for exactly the unique size and shape that you are.  But that’s a lot of numbers to remember.  So we are here to make it a little easier on you by sharing these measurement charts.

There is a fill-in chart for each member of your family.  Simply print, measure, write it down, and get to sewing!

Need help figuring out some of these measurements?  We’ve already got you covered!  Head over to Judy’s post about “How To Measure Yourself” to see where to place the measuring tape and how to get the most accurate numbers.

What are you waiting for?  Go grab a copy of these PDFs and make life a little easier on yourself!
FREE PRINTABLE MEASUREMENT CHARTS

Happy sewing, friends!

How to Print P4P A0 Copy Shop File with Blue Prints Printing

We now offer the A0 Copy Shop File with all our newer patterns for an added convenience.  The A0 Copy Shop File is meant to be printed on a large printer on larger size paper (A0 size paper that is ;)).  It is about the size of an engineer’s print.

Most of our patterns fit on one to two of the A0 size papers.  This means you don’t need to tape together the smaller paper to tile together your larger pieces.  Very few pieces cannot fit onto that size and still need to be pieced (very long pieces usually- like Essential Tank Maxi which spans from shoulder to floor), but that’s 2 pieces rather than 50!  Here is an example of a pattern printed on an A0 size sheet:

We get asked a lot about where to print them!  And now we have a great suggestion for you.  We had  Blue Prints Printing reach out to us wanting to help make the process smooth and easy for everyone trying to print PDF sewing patterns! Most PDF plotting companies are based around printing engineer blueprints/plans.  So the process can seem confusing to upload and understand what you need for a PDF sewing pattern instead.  Not only did they ask all about the sewing patterns and what P4P seamstresses are looking for, they actually created a page and a great tool on their site for merging all the patterns into an order for a great experience JUST FOR US! <3  *They also set up an affiliate program for the P4P blog- accounts made through the P4P blog links will be affiliate links. *

They worked hard to make the process simple.  They have clickable step by step instructions on how to upload your patterns and order with suggestions on paper size, paper type, etc. to make the ordering process easy for a PDF sewing pattern. They also gave us an exclusive P4P discount code for the kick off: p4p-intro15 which will give you 15% off on print orders of $40.00 or more.  This comes out to $1.12 per page, which is the lowest we’ve found online anywhere.  They have incredibly fast shipping too!

But just to make sure, I’ve made a quick video all about how to get your A0 Copy Shop File from your account here on the P4P site, uploaded to their site and receive that big box of patterns all ready for you to create without taping or gluing sheets together.

They package very nicely so that your patterns come very smooth and protected as well!   You do pay shipping for this box, so it makes most sense to order as many together as possible in a “bundle” to save on shipping 🙂

They are welcoming the Pirates over with huge open arms and if you have any trouble they will be more than happy to help with your question or concern 24/7 at: service@blueprintsprinting.com or you can call from 9am-5pm, M-F Mountain Time/ leave voicemail other times at:  888-507-1002.

I hope this helps all you seamstresses out there that love PDF patterns, but don’t love taping them together!

Judy

Fall Capsule

Once again Patterns for Pirates teamed up with Made for Mermaids and Cole’s Corner and Creations to bring you some Fall Capsule inspiration. As before we will be giving you some ideas how to create Women, Boys and Girls mini capsules.

Today I will show you how to create a perfect mini fall/back to school capsule for your little men. As some of you know, I live in Florida so my kids’ capsules will reflect the warm climate. For the rare days when it’s chilly (and by chilly I mean 70s 🙂 ) I love to have some layering pieces ready. I find Cpt Mack’s Cardigan to be the perfect layering piece for short or long sleeves tshirts. Those elbow patches are so fun!

When you built your boy’s fall capsule be sure to add a button up shirt like the Lumberjack Shirt. They can be worn as stand alone tops but also make great layering tops. You can make the collar option or go for a fun, cool look and add a hood.

Every boy needs a cool jacket! Am I right? Well…look no further than the Spirit jacket from Cole’s Corner and Creations. The raglan style sleeves make it such an easy sew that you’ll be whipping those in no time.

Between the 3 sisters pattern companies you have so many tops options. For Noah’s fall capsule I went with my 3 favorite choices…the P4P Jolly Roger Raglan, the M4M Dylan Tee and the P4P Yo Ho Henley. All patterns feature a long sleeve and short sleeve option so you can pick whatever style works best for your area.

 

When choosing the bottoms for the mini fall capsule I kept in mind one thing: COMFORT! My little man lives in shorts all year long so I went with the Pirate Playground shorts and a modified knee length Baby Bear Joggers. I like the loose fit of the Playground Pants for PE days and the slimmer fit of the Baby Bear Joggers for everyday wear.

For the occasional colder day I had to add a pair of the new Little Loungers pants. This pair is made with a striped linen blend and it’s such a classic look. It pairs beautifully with the Yo Ho Henley, the JRR and the Dylan Tee.

 

We can’t wait to see your little one’s capsules this fall! You can read the contest details on the M4M blog here. Regardless of which top, layering piece or bottoms you choose remember to: Keep it fun! Keep it simple! Keep it comfortable!

P4P University :: Bias Binding

 

We recently covered the tips and tricks to using a knit binding (HERE) but what about woven fabrics?  One of the many finishing options for necklines, sleeve hems and armcyes for woven fabrics is bias binding.  Unlike knit, woven binding should be cut on the bias (45 degrees from the grain-line) so that it bends and curves and allows it to lay flat.  Some patterns will include a pattern piece, which makes it easy to line up and cut the strip on the bias, however, it can eat up quite a bit of fabric and we all know how much we hate to waste pretty fabric, right?  You can also use pre-made bias binding, but many of times it’s nice to use the same fabric as the your garment, so we’re going to show you how make a continuous bias strip from a small square of your fabric.  This is also perfect to use up your scraps.

For this example, I used a 15″ x 15″ square which makes about 100″ of 2″ bias binding.  A 12″ square makes about 60″ which is plenty for the bias binding neckline option of the Everyday Elegance.

At this point, you can set your binding aside or you can continue to pre-press to finish preparing it to be sewn to your garment.  A 2″ binding strip will create 1″ single fold or 1/2″ double fold bias tape.  The above method also works for various widths and single or double fold bias tape.

There you have it!  Creating your own bias tape from woven fabric is as simple as a couple of seams and cuts.

Check out the video below as Judy walks you through a quick demonstration on sewing with bias binding.

We’ve added another quick video with SINGLE FOLD BIAS BINDING 🙂 Enjoy!

As promised in the video here are a couple pictures to entice you to PRESS and stay stitch to help get a great finish.

Finished single fold bias:

 

Happy Sewing!!

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