Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

75k Member Sale-a-Bration and FREE Baby Set <3

I’m so excited to announce we’ve hit 75k members in our awesome P4P Facebook Group! <3 I love seeing all the inspiration, questions answered, fitting help, and proud first time shares in there! If you’re not a member yet, come join us 🙂

To celebrate we’re having a big sale- 30% off the total site for 10 days! January 24-Feb 2 2018 (US Central Time Zone).  There is a coupon code- 75ksale – but don’t worry it will pop up for you in your checkout! So you don’t need to worry about remembering it or writing it down!

We thought we’d do even more than just a sale though and have worked hard behind the scenes to create a whole Baby Set of Free patterns for you!!! I LOVE getting invited to a baby shower and making some unique handmade items for the mama and baby! Since my patterns start at 3 months there are a few great ones I go to for baby shower gifts…BUT, I’ve always thought there were a few teeny tiny newborn size things I’d love to have a pattern for as well!

I KNEW we needed a Wee Lap Tee, the envelope style neckline makes dressing newborns easier, and OF COURSE we needed Petite Pegs 🙂 We’ve been asked so many times for baby sizes of our Free Peg Legs pattern it was a no brainer! We added the Teeny Beanie to keep those little head and ears warm and a quick and easy burp cloth too. I also couldn’t help myself to a few cute cut files to add on to the gifts as well!

So, next time you find yourself expecting to be a mama, grandma, auntie, or just invited to a baby shower you will be set with this Free Baby Set of Patterns! You can mix and match them with the other favorite P4P patterns you have that start at 3M as well! I love the Baby Bear Joggers for babies!

 

I love adding an adorable design to the Wee Lap Tee! I hope you enjoy them and make your baby’s wardrobe or baby gifts that much more special!

 

 

 

Thank you for supporting P4P Sewing PDF Patterns! <3

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Recap + Winners!

How much fun did you have last week, sewing all the henleys?  The Pirate team just loved seeing all of those plackets and neckbands being tackled for the first time, as well as the fun raglan sleeve hack being utilized!

We didn’t really want to have a contest with this sew-along, as much as we just wanted people to have fun without pressure.  However, we couldn’t resist picking some random people that sewed along with us, to gift them some free P4P patterns!  Here are the four P4P Henley Sew-Along Champs!

Layni Van Hyning

Cathryn Perrotti Larkin

Kit Kabboord‎

Alaura Sproles‎

Worried that you missed something?  Don’t be!  We ran this sew-along on the blog so you’d have easy access to it whenever you were ready to sew some henleys for yourself.  Here was the weekly lineup, in case you need it again!

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Attaching Neckband + Hood

Welcome to the day 5 of the P4P Henley sew along. Today’s steps include adding the neckband or the hood.

  • Crew Neckband

If you have done the solid front shirt (no placket) you will now be adding the neckband as in the pattern tutorial. For additional tip, check out our P4P University Neckbands 101 blog and videos here.

  • Henley Neckband

If your sew along choice was a Henley style shirt then you would now be adding the henley neckband. This neckband is not sewn in a loop like the crew neckband was. Take a moment to watch the video below. The most important thing to keep in mind when adding this neckband is to go very slow and baste!

 

  • Hood (with or without the placket)

    The Henley patterns include a hood for the placket option. For this sew along we wanted to show you how easy it is to add a hood to the solid front option. The only pattern modifications you will need to make is to extend the front of the hood by 1/2″.

Sew the hood as per the pattern tutorial. Overlap the front neckline 1/2″ and baste in place.

Mark the quarter points of the hood and the neckline. Turn your shirt inside out and place the hood right sides together, matching the quarter points.

Sew or serge the hood to the neckline following a 1/2″ seam allowance. See how easy it was to add a hood to the plain front shirt?

 

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Sleeves

 

We’re back and working on the sleeves today!  We get quite a few posts in the main Facebook Group about having issues with the sleeve so I made a quick video about easing the sleeve to the bodice.  I hope this helps!

 

If you’re doing a cuffed version, be sure to hop on over to our Knit Cuffs Blog Post for more tips. 🙂

We’re in the home stretch now…only one more day to go!

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

 

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Placket

Dun, dun, dun!  Today is placket day!  But please don’t let this step scare you away, I promise that once it clicks you’ll be a pro at sewing them.  (On the other hand, if you have decided that you want to skip the placket on this version of your henley, the patterns already include a neckband measurement for a basic tee option.  Easy as that!)

Lucky for you, Alex has already given us an incredibly in-depth hand holding on making plackets work for you.  If you head over to her blog post, you’ll find some info on what they are, if interfacing is necessary or not, and THREE wonderful videos taking you through each step of the way.

P4P University – Plackets

Have more questions or as stuck on a step?  Or maybe you just want to share your progress so far?  Feel free to post in the Sew-Along event group!  There are always helpers in there!  And, if you are sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PHENLEYSAL on Instagram.

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Cutting Fabric

Welcome back!  So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit.  Today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics.  We’re also sharing two new hacks so before you cut into your pretties, check them out first!

Is this your first time using one of our patterns?  Check out our Pattern Markings 101 and Grainline blog posts for more tips about cutting out your fabric correctly.  Now, on to the hacks…..

Henley Raglan Color Block Hack

Download the Color Block Pieces for the Women’s Henley and Yo Ho Henley HERE.

Here we go!

 

Women’s Long Sleeve Tall Cuffs Hack

 

If you’ve been following in the main Facebook Group, a few weeks ago I hacked the Henley and upsized it for a more looser top! With that, I also did a longer cuff.  It received lots of love, so we thought we’d make it easy on y’all and share the new cuff measurements.  Cut your sleeve on the “Roll up” Cut line and use the measurements below for your cuffs.  Construction is the same as the other cuff/band options. 🙂

 

We hope you love these hacks as much as we do!  Check back tomorrow for more details on the Placket….. It’s really not as tricky as you think 😉

 

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Choosing Fabrics, Printing + Measuring

Today is all about prepping your pattern and fabric and making sure you get the best fit before you even cut a single fiber!

LET’S TALK FABRIC

The best part of the henley patterns is that they work with a huge array of fabrics.  French Terry, sweater knit, thermal, interlock, rayon spandex, and single/double brushed poly-spandex are just to name a few.  Check out our Knit 101 Blog post if you need more help with the fabric types.

Here are a few examples from our testers!  And be on the lookout for the raglan shoulder color block hack later this week.  😉

 

MEASURE YOURSELF

The Henley Patterns are all focusing on three measurement points: Chest, Waist and Hips.  Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself.  You can see the full post HERE.

Chest/Full Bust — Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust.  You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.  For men/children, the fullest part of their chest is where the measurement needs to be taken.

IMG_7952

Hip – This is a deceiving name.  It is measured around your fullest/biggest part, which is usually your booty.  Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible (a mirror really helps on this one!)

IMG_7966

Waist– This is your natural waistline.  Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants).  It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section.  if you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section.  Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on  your smallest part.  This is your natural waist.

IMG_7969 IMG_8011

What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

Wouldn’t you know that we have an entire blog post dedicated to helping you with that as well?  The “rule of thumb” is to add/subtract 1/2″ for every inch that you are different than the pattern is drafted for.  For example, at 5’10” there is a 5″ difference so I would need to add 2.5″ throughout the pattern.  If I were 5’1″ then I would remove 2″ of length since there is a 4″ difference.

Head HERE to read more about it!

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it?  To get the perfect fit?  Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Now that you have determined your size and if you’d like to grade, how do you do it? Below are a few examples of grading for a larger waist and hip size.  Any adjustments should be made to both the FRONT and BACK pieces.  Do not be discouraged if your measurements put you within different or larger sizes than ready-to-wear store-bought clothes as pattern sizing does not translate the same.  Our bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and we are all uniquely beautiful.

PRINT YOUR PATTERN(S)

All three henley patterns are “no-trim” pages.  That is exactly what it sounds like!  The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly.  It makes this step of the process even quicker.  Need help assembling the no-trim pages?  No problem!  Judy created this fabulous video for us.  Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling.  We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern.  Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit.  Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (4)

Whew!  That was a lot of information to take in, wasn’t it?

Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow.  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PHENLEYSAL on Instagram.  Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Henley SAL on Facebook.

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P Henley Sew-Along | Get Ready!

Are you ready for another sew-along with the Pirate Crew?  We are so excited to tell you that we are bringing an entire week of P4P Henley love!  We thought it was time to shine some light on these “oldie but goodie” patterns of ours, and especially love it because the patterns cover your entire family.

Welcome to Henley Sew-Along Week, friends!

The party doesn’t start officially until tomorrow, but that doesn’t mean you can’t prepare yourself a little bit beforehand.  In celebration of the Henley Sew-Along Week, all three patterns can be discounted an additional $3, using the code “henleysal” until January 20, 2018 (11:59pm Central Time).

Yo Ho Henley | Women’s Henley | Men’s Henley | Henley Bundle

Be sure to join us in the Event Page for the Sew-Along on Facebook: HERE.
The SAL itself will be on this very blog, but we will be extending the party over to the group and event on Facebook for even more interactive fun!

If you’d like to get a leg up on the yardage of fabric you’ll be needing, here are the size charts and fabric requirements, for easy access:

And before we go…here is the schedule, so you know what to expect from us.  We will even be throwing in some new tricks and pattern hacks, so you can get even more out of these adorable patterns.  Can’t wait!!

**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.

January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!

P4P University – knit cuffs

Ahoy Pirates! In our first P4P University blog of the year I wanted to give you a few tips and tricks to make adding knit cuffs to your projects easy peasy. Whether you’re sewing for yourself, your significant other or your little ones, adding cuffs to your sleeves or leg openings can be a tedious job. We can change that!

*Choose the right fabric for the cuff!

As I mentioned in the Neckbands 101 blog post, choosing the correct fabric for your cuffs will make a huge difference. The best one is rib knit or ribbing. If you do not have any ribbing handy or the colors you have do not work for your project the next best thing would be cotton spandex. I mainly use cotton spandex in for my kids’ shirts and joggers cuffs as I like to coordinate it with the main fabric. Whatever fabric you pick, make sure it has at least 50% stretch and excellent recovery.

*Always cut the cuff with the greatest stretch horizontally.

Always cut your cuffs cross grain! Even if the fabric you use stretches over 50% in both directions, you should never cut against the grain. Read all about the importance of “the grain” in Roberta’s blog post, When It Goes Against the Grain. 

*Press your cuffs!

I know I talk about pressing a lot in my blogs, but you have to believe me, it makes your sewing life so much easier. I recommend grabbing those cuffs and giving them a good steam press as soon as you cut your fabric. This will create a memory hem that will make it so much easier to fold them once you sew the “loop” closed.

Press your cuffs after you sew them on too! 🙂

*Snip the seam allowance to create less bulk

This is one of tricks for creating less bulk at he seam. Once you sew the cuff to create a loop, grab your sharpest scissors and make a cut as close to the stitch as possible without, of course, snipping the stitch.

That little snip will make it so easy to please the seam allowances on opposite sides when you sew fold the cuff. In doing so, you will have so much less bulk at the seam, your serger will thank you! 🙂

*Place your sleeve inside the cuffs

Mark the quarter points on the sleeve (or leg) opening as well as the cuffs. I find that for the smallest of sizes, marking just the half point is sufficient.

To make sure you will not have your seam allowance on the outside of your sleeve (or ankle) 😉 place the right side of your sleeve inside the cuff and match the quarter (or half way) points.

*Sew or serge with the presser foot inside the sleeve

Most of the time the sleeve opening is pretty small so I find that it is easier the place the presser foot of my serger (or sewing machine) inside the sleeve as opposed to stitching on the outside. This is especially important when you make Baby Bear Joggers or and kids shirts with cuffs, like the Jolly Roger Raglan or the Yo Ho Henley.

*Do not topstitch.

As opposed to necklines, I find that cuffs and waistbands look a lot better if you do not topstitch them down. I do encourage you to press your garments when you finish sewing it, including the cuffs.

There you have it! 7 easy tips to follow when adding cuffs to your favorite P4P knit patterns. My boys are both rocking the JRR with add on cowl neck from the pack and faux layered sleeves from the blog.

Which one will you be making first? Make sure you post your creations in the P4P group and let me know if adding cuffs is now an easier “task”. 🙂

 

Pattern Markings 101

Many moons ago, I can remember calling my mom in a panic. I had printed out my first pattern for a garment, assembled it, and then just stared at all of the markings! Even though I’d sewn quilts for years before, this was my first attempt at making clothes and the pattern looked like a map in which I had no clue how to follow. After my “what did I get myself into” talk with her, she slowly walked me through each question I had and now after all these years we’ve come full circle and I’m making clothes for her!

Like many people, you will probably experience (or already have!) the “What have I done?” moment in sewing and question why you started a project to begin with. Have no fear! We’re here to help. We decided it was time to break that map down for you and help you learn how to navigate through the amazing world of garment sewing. In this post, you’ll find a description of all the key terms and symbols you might expect to see when starting your sewing adventures! So let’s get those patterns printed, assembled and let the fun begin! (If you’re staring at all of those pages you’ve just printed- don’t worry there either! Click here for our First Time User Tips, which includes how to assemble patterns).

Grainline

The grainline tells you which direction the grain of your fabric should run. The grainline will run parallel between the selvages, or finished edges of your fabric. There are usually printer markings, contrasting trims, solid colors, etc found on the selvage. Typically, your grainline will have the less amount of stretch in knit fabric. A few weeks ago, Roberta shared some details and information about grainlines, why they’re important, and much more. You can check that out here. 

Stretch

The stretch of your fabric will run perpendicular to the grainline/selvage and will be the direction with the most stretch. As you can see in the picture below, the stretch is running the opposite way as the grainline. It is extremely important to have the right direction of stretch when it comes to the fit of your garment. The stretch will go around your body for most pattern pieces and is accounted for when the ease of a pattern is drafted (read more about ease here). For example, if a pattern is drafted with negative ease (finished measurements are smaller than your body) and you have the stretch going in the wrong direction, chances are, it won’t fit.

Fold

If a pattern piece is symmetrical on both sides, you will notice the center with a “FOLD” marking. This is commonly found on pieces such as the bodice, back, or sleeve in which both the left and right sides have the same appearance. You will want to fold your fabric wide enough for your pattern piece and align this marking to the fold of the fabric. To help conserve fabric, I like to fold it just wide enough for the pattern piece (shown above). A common error can be to fold the fabric exactly down the middle, leaving wasted material.

Notches

You might have noticed small triangles on some pattern pieces. These notches serve several different purposes. One of the purposes is to help distinguish the back from the front. For example, something like a raglan style top can easily get mixed up when assembling. These notches will help keep the front  with the front and back with the back. The second purpose is to help with alignment. By matching these notches up, your pieces will be in the correct position.

TIP: I always cut my notches out rather than in as to avoid accidentally cutting too far into the seam allowance.

Hem Gauge

You will typically find a hem gauge on both the sleeves and bottom edges. This is usually a triangular shape that notches out. It will mark the correct allowance for your hem. This is particularly useful when creating a memory hem. All you will need to do is fold your fabric up to this notch, press and unfold. Once you’ve sewn the seams, you will still have your pressed fold in place with the correct seam allowance.

 

Cut Chart

Most Patterns for Pirates patterns will include a cut chart. The cut chart is typically found within the first few pages of the tutorial and will give measurements for any rectangular pieces. For example, items like neckbands, cuffs, waistbands and elastic would all be found here. Some designers will included these as actual pattern pieces, however by providing a cut chart, you are able to save on both paper and ink. When cutting these pieces, I find it easiest to do so using a quilters ruler and rotary cutter.

Hopefully these tips help! Remember that we are always here to help, especially in our Facebook group. If you’re not a already a member, be sure to join so that you can ask questions and share all of your amazing Patterns for Pirates creations!

~ Erinn

Featured Patterns