Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

SOS sal day 6 (waistband)

Woo hoo! We made it to the last sewing day. Today we are adding the waistband and bragging 😉 The SOS knit pants feature a mid rise (they will hit just under the belly button) with an elastic enclosed waistband. My main tip for today is to try the elastic on once you sew the loop. Not all elastics are the same, some will stretch more some will stretch less. When possible it’s always advisable to try the elastic to make sure you love the fit before you add the waistband.

If you are a fan of the Peg Legs contour waistband you can certainly replace the waistband with the contour one. I talk about how here, in the hacks blog.

Be sure to watch Day 6’s video below and post your finished SOS pants  (modeled or not) in the comments of the day 6 photo of this sew along’s album. Reminder, only photos posted in the comments of DAY 6 photo will qualify for the prize. You are most definitely welcome to share on the wall as well (the SAL group and P4P group). Good luck!

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 5 (leg inseam, side seam, hem)

Ahoy, matey! Today our project will start to take the shape of pants 😉 Whether you have opted for the skinny, straight, youth or adult option, you will be sewing the inseam and the side seam. The video below shows you how my preferred technique. I like to pin the front to the back at the inseam, the side seams and lastly sew them.

The pattern follows a 1/2″ seam allowance so if you are using your serger, remember to remove 1/4″ with the serger blade.

Hem the bottom of each leg by folding 1″ and stitching it with a STRETCH stitch. It is very important that you do use either a zig zag, a triple stretch or a coverstitch when sewing the hem. There will be tension and stretching applied to it when putting the SOS knit pants on and wearing them so a straight stitch may pop.

Take a look over the Day 5 video below and when you complete your step, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 5 photo of the SOS sew along album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 4 (front pocket, inseam)

Good morning mermaids and pirates! Today, on day 4, we will be sewing the front pockets and the front seam. Let’s start with the pockets! The SOS knit pants feature slat pockets with an French seam. As I mentioned in the previous video, I strongly encourage you to use a thinner knit fabric for the pocket lining. This will reduce the bulk considerably.

If you have opted for the MOTO HACK  (free hack and pattern on the blog) today is the day when you will be sewing the pin tucks and putting together the front legs. 

Once you added your pocket, all you have left to do today is sew the front crotch seam and make sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of DAY 4 photo of the SOS sal album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 3 ( back pockets, yoke, inseam)

Today we start sewing! Day 3 is reserved to attaching the back pocket, the back yokes and sewing the back seam.

Let’s start with the back pocket (s). You can add two or just one, it’s all a matter of preference. The main thing I want to mention regarding the back pocket is the importance of BASTING it in place before you stitch it down. As Judy mentions in the tutorial, the back pocket can make or break the look of the pants. So do use the suggested pocket placement but just baste them in place and only after trying the pants on sew them down.

Once you add the pocket(s), it’s time to add the back yoke. This is where you will see how important having cut the notches yesterday really is 🙂 Be sure to match the notches and attach the yoke with a 1/2″ seam allowance and top stitch.

Below is a link to the Day 3 sew along video which includes the back pocket, yoke and inseam construction. Once you complete today’s steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of the SOS knit pants sew along album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 2 (cut fabric)

 

Welcome to day 2 of our SOS knit pants sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday. If you haven’t removed the top part of the pocket on the front pieces, now is the time to do it.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for the SOS pants. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous athletic knit from Kammie Lou Lou for my SOS skinny pants. This poly base knit is custom printed and the perfect medium weight. For the straight leg I absolutely love French Terry or Baby French Terry for a casual/sporty feel and ponte for a more elegant look. I highly encourage you to avoid thinner knits like double brushed poly, low weight cotton spandex or bamboo spandex.

Kammie Lou Lou is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $75 Gift Card to the retail shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed fabric.

You will also need 1″ or 1.25″ elastic for the waistband. Not all elastic is the same, so keep that in mind when you choose knit elastic vs no roll elastic.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the SOS SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 1 (print and cut pattern)

Welcome to the SOS knit pants

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the SOS Knit Pants here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth SOS pants can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

The SOS Sew Along is sponsored by Kammie Lou Lou fabrics and Stacy has graciously offered our pirates and mermaids 10% off retail with code “Sal10″.

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size (s). Patterns for Pirates drafts for 5’5″ height for the Women pattern so do not forget to adjust for height too. Make sure to check your inseam against the finish inseam of the style pants you chose. I am 5’5″ BUT my crotch to ankle inseam  is 28″ so I have to remove 2″ from the skinny pants since the finished inseam is 30”.

You will need your waist, hips and calf measurements in order to choose the correct pants. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

We always recommend making a muslin with the same type of fabric you plan to use for your “real” pair to make sure you get the perfect fit. Judy put together a great P4P University Blog that talks about pants and their wrinkles. You can read in there about some easy fixes for common problems.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the SOS knit pants SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

P4P University- Pants and Their Wrinkles

We get a lot of questions about fitting, wrinkles and pull lines and how to fix those when sewing for different body types.  Pants seem to cause a lot of anxiety for some sewists when it comes to the crotch area and the lines they can see there, but it isn’t too complicated as it seems.

First, lets talk about wrinkles and pull lines in general.  You will never have a garment that will never have any in any position.  Meaning a garment is drafted and fitted to look great in one main position (usually standing up straight with feet slightly apart for pants).  So, if you’re only getting wrinkles or pull lines when moving a certain way don’t worry! A garment can’t be perfectly drafted and fitted to every movement you’re going to be in.  I often see that sewists are worried about this though… “I have wrinkles when I sit” is a very common plea for help… but the truth is you should! You need that extra length when you’re standing and it will wrinkle or bunch when you’re not using that length when sitting.

 

But, if you’re fitting pants and you’re having wrinkles or pull lines when just standing straight then you’ll want to alter the pattern for a better fit.  Lets go over some wrinkles and pull lines and what you would need to do to fix them.  I have the issue on the left, followed by how you would alter the pattern in the middle, and to the right what your new pattern piece will look like against the old one (old pattern in pink and new altered in black).

When you have wrinkles this indicates that you have too much fabric somewhere and it is bunching up.  Pinching out the excess will show you exactly where the extra fabric is coming from usually and if it is horizontal, vertical, or both that needs to be taken out.

When you have pull lines this indicates that there is not enough fabric somewhere and it is straining.  If you’re unsure you can unpick to let the tension out and see if the lines go away.  The gap that your seam spreads would be the amount your pattern needs to not strain.  You can unpick along the side seam to check for horizontal pulling or along the top waistband for vertical.  You might need both as well if you’re getting bias pulling.

The same goes for booty with wrinkling vs pull lines and vertical vs horiztonal.   But, I wanted to touch on a common fit issue I see asked about, which is pulling under the bum.  This is generally when your booty is a bit lower then the pant is drafted for.  Lowering the booty curve will help elevate that straining and pull lines.

 

Pants aren’t all that scary 🙂 Once you learn the basics you can alter the pattern for your perfect fit easily!  Good luck!

Minute Maillot :: New Pattern Release!!

Happy Release Day, Pirates!!  We are excited to be sharing with you the latest patterns in our swim lineup: the Minute Maillot and Minute Maillot Youth!

This pattern is about to make a splash in your swimwear sewing, because it’s super easy AND a super flattering to sew.  The pattern features partially lined and fully lined options.  The women’s also includes a bust support piece with elastic which you can sew swim cups to.  They both include 3 back neckline options: high, mid, and low.  The women’s also includes 3 front neckline options: high, mid, and low as well as 2 leglines: high and low.  You can mix and match to your personal preference for modesty and flatter your personal bodytype…or sew one of each variation and have a huge stack!

Never heard the word “maillot” before?  Here’s a quick history lesson:  In the 1920’s the term maillot was first used to describe a tight fitting, one-piece swimsuit.  In present day, the word has almost entirely been replaced by the term “one-piece” or “tanksuit,” but is now known in the designer’s world for specific styles that include higher cut leglines, and often plunging necklines or revealing cutouts.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HIGH AND LOW LEGLINES (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH NECKLINE / MID NECKLINE / LOW NECKLINE (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH BACK / MID BACK / LOW BACK

RUFFLE SKIRT (YOUTH VERSION ONLY)

Are you ready to get in on the Minute Maillot fun?  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

MINUTE MAILLOT | YOUTH MINUTE MAILLOT |MINUTE MAILLOT BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!  Minute Maillot Album | Youth Minute Maillot Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday, May 17, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Minute Maillot – Easy Hacks

Don’t let the name of the pattern fool you! While The Minute Maillot is a super quick sew, it is full of options. But you know us- we like to add more easy hacks that you can customize to your preference.

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Separates

Although I love the Minute Maillot as a one piece, I tend to wear a lot of two pieces in the summer and this pattern is so quick and easy to hack into a two piece!  Let’s jump right in!

Step 1 – Grab your both your front and back lining pieces.  All we need to do is add a bit of length to these pieces.  Add 1 1/4 inch to the bottom of each piece and then draw your side seam line down on a curve to match as shown here. You will do this on both your front and back piece.  NOTE: This is going to work best on the high back, the mid back will work but its going to leave you with a very thin back band.

 

Step 2: Cut out your pieces you will need one main and one lining of each the front and the back.  You will sew in your cups if using them just as instructed in the pattern but DO NOT sew on the underbust elastic! Assemble the top just as instructed in the pattern.

Step 3: Your top is now assembled and we just have to finish the bottom. Cut your 3/4 inch under bust elastic as stated in the chart and butt the edges together and zig zag in the round exactly like shown in the tutorial. .  Instead of attaching it to the lining only we are going to attach it in the same way as we did the neckline and arm elastic.  First we will quarter our elastic and suite and match them together.  The elastic will be on the lining side of the suite.  Baste your elastic to your suite making sure that the edge of your elastic matches the edge of both the lining and the main fabric.  I choose to serge my elastic on, you will need to slightly stretch the elastic to match your suite.  After you have it sewn in place you will flip it up to the lining side and top stitch in place, again just like all your other elastic in the suite you want to top stitch right on the edge of that elastic as close as you possibly can, this helps prevent the elastic from flipping out on you.

All done! Quick and easy and super cute! This would also work great in athletic fabric for a sports bra! I paired mine with the Hello Sailors bottoms but you could easily hack to make your own bottoms from this pattern as well!  You just need to figure out where you would like the top of your bottoms to hit and add 3/8th to that.  You would add 3/8 inch elastic to the top on the lining side and then top stitch in place!  You can also apply this same hack to the girls suit, just decide how long you would like your top you can make it as long or as short as you would like, add 1/2 inch to where you decided you would like it to finish and add 3/8 inch elastic to finish the bottom.  No measurements are provided for this but I would do an inch less then the finished measurement so you can stretch that elastic just a little bit.

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Low back strap

My favorite back option of the Minute Maillot is for sure the low one! I also feel like it gives me the opportunity to get even more creative. Let me show you how quick and easy it is to add a strap to the back.

Start by making the swimsuit’s low back option, any front option or leg you prefer. We will add the strap once the suit in completed. Place a quilting ruler at the bottom arm opening and measure the opening of the back at that level. In my case (1x) it is 9 inches.

Cut your back strap 6″ wide by the back opening you measured earlier. In my case I used a swim piece that was 6″x9″. This is a step you can customize to your liking. If you’d like a thinner strap you can certainly cut the fabric shorter than 6″. Fold the strap right side together lengthwise, sew along the top with a 1/4 or 1/2″ seam allowance (depending on your preference). Turn the strap inside out.

Bring back your swimsuit, back side up, and mark the point on the opening that matches the bottom arm opening.

Pin your strap in place making sure that the top of the strap matches the mark you just made on both sides of the back opening.

Sew the strap in place using a zig zag stitch, stretch stitches or your coverstitch. That’s all!

Tips: Using the same technique you can make the back with two or three thinner straps, two long ones  tied in a bow, two thinner ones crossed like an X….endless possibilities!

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Ruffles at the legs

Looking for one of the fastest way to make most little girls happy- add ruffles! For this hack, you will first need to cut and assemble your pattern according to the tutorial, stopping at the step which attaches the crotch seam. Once assembled, you will want to measure the width that you would like your ruffles to be. I choose to measure from the side seam to approximately the leg curve, giving me a 3″ area to add the ruffle to the front, as well as another 3″ to the back.

You will now cut the rectangles needed for the ruffles.  You will need a total of 6 rectangles, 3 for each side. To determine the total length needed, I took my 6″ I measured above and multiplied by 1.5. If you’d like a more full ruffle, you could multiply this width by 2. For the height, I cut each ruffle to 2″. My final ruffle measurements were 9″x 2″. After you’ve cut your rectangles, you will want to sew your gather stitches (the longest straight stitch on your machine). I like to sew two rows of stitches to help create more even gathers.

Beginning with your bottom ruffle, match the center of the ruffle with the side seam, then pin in place 3″ from the side seam on both the front and back bodice pieces. Pull your gather strings and adjust as needed.

Attach the ruffle using a narrow zigzag stitch. You may now remove the basting stitches.

Repeat these steps with both the middle and top layer, placing it 1″ above the previous layer.

After attaching the ruffles, finish sewing the crotch seam as directed in the tutorial and then finish by adding the elastic! Lastly, show it to that little cutie and see her face light up when she sees the added flair to her suit!


~Erinn

 

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Maternity

 

Hi Lovelies,

Today we are going to discuss how to hack the new suit to be maternity friendly. You’re going to need the Maternity Layer Me Up add on pattern piece and your front piece of the swimsuit. Okay, let’s get started!
First, before cutting fabric we will need to modify the front pattern piece.  You’re going to take the front piece of the swimsuit and you’re going to measure one inch above the High Leg cut line. From there you will have two pieces to add your LMU in the middle.
You’re going to tape the top area of the LMU maternity add on where the red line is in the picture by the bust line curve.
Then, you’re going to tape the bottom piece of the swimsuit by the bottom notches on the LMU pattern piece. You will now blend the bottom of the belly area on the LMU to bottoms swimsuit piece.
Now, you’ll use your newly drafted maternity front piece to cut out the front of your swimsuit (and your swim lining if you’re fully lining the front of your swimsuit).
Next, you will be gathering the center belly section. Instead of using elastic to gather like in the LMU add on instructions I did the traditional two basting stitches and gathered by hand to match the back swimsuit pattern piece.  You will start gathering at the top notch under the bust and go until the very last notch on the belly.
From here on out you will continue with the Minute Maillot instructions as normal. Bam, you’re done with your beautiful new maternity swimsuit!

Amanda S

 

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How Low Can You Go Back

I love a dramatic low back! The low back option included is a bit lower then natural waistline.  I kept seeing gorgeous Pinterest photos of super low backs and had to try one!

I marked a line from the high cut legline horizontally across my back piece.  Then marked a vertical line just continuing the back low cutline vertically down until it met with the horizontal line I already marked.  Using a french curve I drew the curve (you can also cut out and use the curve from the low option if you don’t have a french curve handy).

I sewed up the suit exactly the same, just lengthening the back elastic to match the lower line. (I didn’t measure, I just applied it as I sewed only stretching where needed).

Ta-Da! A super dramatic low back that would be stunning on any beach or romantic get away… I’ll have to try to get invited to one of those one day to show mine off 😉

Judy

Loggers Ruched Side Hack

Hi Pirates!  With warmer weather approaching, pool days, lake trips and beach-bound vacations ahead,  we’re starting to pull swim knits from our stashes and make new suits for the summer.  We have Rachel from Yonder Couture on the blog today as a guest writer to share with you the latest hack to the Loggers. In case you missed any of the others (including a fully lined swim option), check it out HERE.

Now, here’s Rachel!

I didn’t expect to totally fall in love with Patterns for Pirates latest release, the Women’s Loggers, but P4P knocked it out of the park again with a design loaded with options.

{ICYMI, Loggers are the love child of leggings and joggers…}

After making a pair of loungewear shorties and a pair of full-length pants from the pattern, I couldn’t shake the vision of swim shorts for paddle-boarding.

I had a load of swim fabric on hand already. My pattern was already assembled from my previous makes. An opportune hour of free time smiled my way. Before I knew it, I had these adorable new shorties in my life.

{No cats were harmed in the making of these Loggers.}

I wasn’t prepared for the overwhelming reception by the amazing P4P community of sewists. Many asked for the pattern hack.

So, here we go! Let’s make swim shorties!

  1. Cut the pattern pieces per the pattern instructions.
  1. Cut two additional strips of fabric, 1.5″ x 36″. These will be your side ties.
  2. Sew together each of your center seams, leaving the outside leg seams open.

 

  1. Fold and press your leg bindings in half and attach to the bottom of leg openings. Be sure to match your center points on the binding and legs. The center point of each will not line up at the center seam.
  1. With right sides together, sew a 5/8″ seam along the outside leg seams and press open. Do not use a serger for this step. You are creating casings for your side ties.

I chose to finish my raw edges with a serger, but this is not required.

  1. Create a casing on each side of each outside leg seam by sewing a 1/2″ seam. This will secure the edges and provide a new home for your side ties.

 

  1. Create your ties by sewing the right sides of your fabric strips together. Turn to the right side with your favorite turning tool. Cut each strip in half so that you have four ties.
  1. Insert one tie into each casing and secure the top edges in place with a basting stitch.
  1. Attach your choice of Logger’s waistband options per pattern instructions.
  2. Once you try on and ruche or gather the edges to your preferences, tie a pretty side bow and cut the tie length to your liking!

 

And you’re ready to have the cutest booty on the lake!

If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me. I’ll be happy to help.

One last note… if you post your makes to social media using the hashtag, #loggers, be prepared for a rash of unusual new followers who cut down trees for a living.

True story.

 

Shout out to Rachel for sharing her hack with us!  If you’ve used one of the hacks on the blog for the Loggers, be sure to tag us on Instagram or share your pair in the Facebook Group!

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