Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

New Pattern Releases :: Sweater Weather

Coming off of the year that we all had last year, we wanted to start you off right in 2021 with something comfy, cozy and perfect for the winter season.  And so, our newest patterns were born.  Allow me to introduce you to: Sweater Weather.

Sweater Weather is the perfect pattern to grab when it’s chilly.  You can create a classic sweater that will stay in your wardrobe for years to come or a super trendy look that hits the sweet spot this season perfectly.  You can go from off the shoulder when it’s just a bit cool, to crew, to turtleneck when you really need something warm.   The off the shoulder neckline is meant to be super wide so you can pull it off one side or wear it to the edge of your shoulders-  not so wide you need to mess with it all day with wear.  The crew neckline isn’t too tight that the crew or turtleneck feel restrictive even in thicker fabrics.  All sleeves options are long for those cooler months.  The belled sleeves are a super fun and trendy option that are so fun to wear.  The traditional sleeves will always be in style paired with any neckline.  And the gathered sleeves are such a fun a different detail to give yourself something fun to wear.  All options have a great split side seam with a longer back bodice.

Drafted for knits like sweater knits, double brushed poly, spandex french terry blends. waffle knits, ribbed knits, brushed waffle knits, brushed ribbed knits, and more.

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X!  If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

The options include:  3 hem lengths (crop / shirt / tunic), 3 sleeve options (traditional / gathered / belled) and 3 necklines (crew / turtleneck / off-the-shoulder).

We’ve also included several videos throughout the tutorial…including fabric suggestions, sewing up the side split hem, sewing the gathered sleeves and a complete sew up.

Let’s take a look at the different options, shall we?

HEM LENGTHS

SLEEVE OPTIONS

NECKLINES

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the perfect Sweater Weather patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, January 30, 2021.

SWEATER WEATHER | SWEATER WEATHER – YOUTH | SWEATER WEATHER – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sweater Weather | Sweater Weather – Youth

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sweater Weather Easy Hacks post.

Sweater Weather – easy hacks

 

From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started! 

…..

Dress

I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK.  I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.

I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add.  I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency. 


I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.

However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too.  The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you.  I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose.  Then repeat for your back piece.

The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length.  Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:

Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!

Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

…..

No side split

Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.

First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.

I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)

This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.

Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!

Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:

Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.

Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges.  You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.

Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

….

Short sleeves

Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces. 

Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem. 

Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look. 

Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial. 

ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve. 

How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.

How fun and easy were these? We can’t wait to see your take on these hacks. Share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates FB group or on any social media platforms you use! 

2020, A Year in Review

This year was definitely a strange one…but you don’t need me telling you that.  Let’s keep it light by recapping all of the fun things that happened in our teeny, tiny Patterns for Pirates corner of the world.  I haven’t always done recaps, but it’s fun for me (and I hope for you too) to see just what we did during the year!  So without further ado… here is what P4P accomplished during 2020:

We added 10 new patterns to the shop (20 if you count the youth and adult as separate patterns!):

In order of release:

I truly love each and every pattern we put out this year!  (I might even be wearing some Cozy Pants and Cozy Wrap as I’m typing up this very blog post.)

We did some extra Free patterns this year because we felt like more people could use some smiles throughout this rougher year.  So, here are all the freebies we released!

In order of release:

We also made an announcement about how our free downloads are handled.  Starting 1/1/2021 when you check out with a freebie it will stay in your download section for 30 days.  After 30 days it will expire.  You can either download it to your own device or go through the checkout process again if you need to reprint in the future and didn’t save it. The freebies will always remain free and will always be there if you don’t want to save them to your own device/cloud/etc.

What else did we do this year? How about some special events we held…

Or what Sew A Longs we put on?

You can find each Sew A Long on our blog and as a playlist on our YouTube Channel:

I always love to see what the most popular patterns are through the year as well!

In order of popularity:

It looks the Pirate Community as whole likes to be equal parts glamorous and comfy… exactly how I feel too!

Let’s look at the most popular freebies this year!

Here are some links in case you want to snag these favorite freebies for yourself:

And our most popular YouTube Videos while we’re at it!  We worked hard trying to add more videos into Patterns for Pirates this year, I hope you enjoyed the added videos!

I was surprised to not see the Infinity Scarf with Hidden Zipper Pocket in the top freebies, but since it is on the blog and not downloaded that is probably why!  You don’t need to “checkout” or download any pattern pieces to make one up. 😉

We work hard on all social media fronts to make Patterns for Pirates easy for you to find and enjoy.  Here are some social media highlights from this year:

Our blog is run mostly by the wonderful Alex- you know her from our Sew A Longs! But we also have a team of contributors who help up write up blogs… together we managed to put out 6 more P4P University blog posts…these are great beginner blogs answering the questions we see asked the most frequently in the P4P FB group! So, if you ever have a basic sewing question hop onto the P4P blog and use that search… we are working on having the answers for you!

 

P4P University added this year: Waistbands , Elastics , Grommets , Easy Gathering Methods, Sewing Machine vs. Serger , Intended vs. Preferred Fit , and Sewing with Swim .  You can also find all the P4P University blogs rounded up in the FB Group Album!

Here are a few more highlights from the different Social Media outlets we use to keep you in the loop! If you follow me on each one you will notice I use them all slightly differently. I tend to share more selfies, in the moment/candid pictures and sneak peeks on my Instagram. I use the Facebook Group and Page to announce new patterns, sales, etc. I use the Blog to keep all details from everything from new patterns, sales, how tos, hacks, etc. The YouTube channel of course has all our videos from sew a longs, P4P universities, and tutorial videos as well.

 

Thank you to all the new followers, members, etc and for everyone who was here already and stayed with us! I appreciate each and every single one of the follows, members, subscribers, etc!

I’m excited to see what 2021 will bring for Patterns for Pirates as well- I wish you all a Happy New Year!

2nd Annual Holiday Charity Week – 2020

I began an annual tradition last year of giving a large portion of profits from the week of Christmas to a charity.  It makes my heart full to be able to reach out a helping hand, with the assistance of the Patterns for Pirates community.  I just hope that our donations will allow a little extra support for those who need it.

We’ve opted to support the same charities that were benefactors last year.  They may change in the future but for this year at least, they will remain the same.

I will be donating to both Action Against Hunger and a local North Texas Food Bank.  With the hardships that 2020 has brought upon everyone, so many more families need help getting enough food on the table and I hope this week will help get more food to more tables in need both here locally for area and across the world with Action Against Hunger.

                                           

 

You do not need to do anything special for your purchase to count toward the funds being donated during charity week.  40% of every single pattern purchase during this time frame will be donated automatically. *Note- the Fabric for Pirates Fabric Subscriptions transactions will not go through until the 1st of the month, which means even if you sign up during this week the transaction will not apply to this charity week.

If you’ve been eyeing any patterns for your stash, now is the perfect time to grab it and help make our donation amounts even bigger!

Thank you and Happy Holidays,

Judy

P4P University – Sewing with Swim

Hi, I’m Katy and I sew and blog for Patterns for Pirates. This post is all about sewing with swim fabrics. I first started sewing with swim fabric about five years ago, but I will admit that sewing swim spandex scared me and I did not think I would be able to do it! However, I am going to let you in on a secret, if you can sew with knit fabric you are going to be able sew with swim fabric! Swim spandex is now my favourite fabric to sew with. Making swimwear for both myself and my girls is such a satisfying experience.

Patterns for Pirates has great swimsuits patterns available with my favourite being the minute maillot. The fit is lovely and that low back option is super cute! And it is a quick sew too! I think it is a great pattern for starting out sewing with swim fabrics.

I actually use swim spandex for many other p4p sews, such as the sweetheart dress, gala gown, wiggle dress, hepburn top and dress, twist back top, pencil skirt, flutter wrap dress, fierce bra and peg legs to name a few.

Hepburn top (cropped and band added) and peg legs in performance swim spandex

Sweetheart peplum top in swim spandex and mesh

Flutter wrap dress in swim spandex

There are a lot of things to consider when choosing swim spandex:

  • The quality of the fabric makes a big difference to your project. The better the quality of the swim spandex, the easier it is to sew with; it will also mean your garment will wash and wear for longer too.
  • It is best for your swim fabric to have four-way stretch. This means the fabric is able to be stretched both horizontally and vertically which helps to make a comfortable and well fitted swimsuit.
  • Swim fabrics should be made of 100% man-made fibres such as polyester or nylon with a significant amount of spandex (10-20%). Polyester swim fabric will hold its shape better over time and I find it easier to sew with too.
  • Check if the print looks distorted when stretched on the body
  • Check how see through the fabric might become when stretched or wet.
  • I find it preferable to use a specific swim lining instead of the main swim fabric as the lining. I find it more comfortable to wear and easier to sew. Lining creates stability in the swimsuit and can smooth the body or allow better coverage on light coloured fabrics. Using lining can allow you to enclose seams too.
  • Choosing elastic for sewing swimsuits is also something to consider. Elastic needs to be able to withstand water, chlorine, salt and sun. Swim elastic is my preference because if I am going to the trouble of making a custom swimsuit I want the elastic to last. Rubber or clear elastic can also be used but I find it doesn’t last as well and can be trickier to sew with. But it does allow for less bulky seams. Pop over to a blog written by the lovely Dana to find out about elastics 101.

Swim fabrics require a special needle in your sewing machine. You can use a ballpoint needle, but I recommend a stretch needle for sewing seams and attaching elastic. Using one means less trouble with skipped stitches.

Example of the stretch sewing needles I use

When deciding what finishing stitch to use to topstitch elastics down or hemming swim fabric it is personal choice.

If you are lucky enough to have a cover-stitch machine for finishing your swimsuit that is ideal, but never fear because a stretch twin needle in your sewing machine will give similar professional finish too. It is  also quite common to use a zigzag stitch or triple zigzag stitch for topstitching on swim fabric (see photo below showing stitch examples).

The minute maillot swimsuit showing how top-stitching the elastic down on swimsuits looks using either a coverstitch machine or a stretch twin needle

Polyester thread is ideal for sewing with swim because it is not weakened by chlorine or salt water. Again quality of the thread does make a difference to the longevity of your swimsuit.

Cutting swim fabric can be tricky because it can be slippery. I like to use pattern weights because it helps to keep the fabric in place and a rotary cutter because it gives neat, crisp and accurate edges. Before cutting, I recommend that you place your fabric right side up. When doing this, take note of where the pattern will lie on the body and how it looks next to other prints. This will help to avoid an unfortunate print placement.

My cutting set up – fabric right side up, pattern weights and rotary cutter

If you like to use pins, make sure to choose fine ballpoint pins to avoid damaging the elastic fibres in the fabric and leaving holes in it. Clips are also another good choice when sewing swim as they are more gentle on the fabric and hold the fabrics in place well too. Whether you choose to use pins or clips is up to you.

                         

When you are sewing with swim for the first time, I recommend using lots of pins or clips. It helps keep the fabric in place and stops it slipping when sewing. If you are really having trouble getting the swim fabric to cooperate sometimes using a basting stitch can help hold things in place and it is easily removed should you make a mistake. Once basted, you can stitch the seam more easily and remove the basting stitch at the end.

                         

When sewing swim, I use a combination of my sewing machine, overlocker (serger) and cover-stitch machines. However, if you only have a sewing machine it is still totally achievable to make a handmade custom swimsuit. Swimsuits are designed with negative ease which means the pattern is slightly smaller than your measurements, so it fits firmly on the body and stretches to it. This means you need to use a stitch that has stretch to it, like a small zigzag, lightning stitch or triple stretch stitch.

These are examples below of some common stretch stitches I use on my sewing machine when sewing with swim fabric. Always use a piece of swim fabric scrap to test your chosen stitch; then stretch the sample to make sure it will be durable.

The ideal machine choice to sew seams together for swim is an overlocker (serger), so if you have one, I recommend you sew with it. However, my preferred technique for sewing seams together with swim fabric is to start with a triple stretch stitch. I like this stitch because it is strong (my girls can be rough on their swimsuits), but it is slower to sew. I then trim the seam allowance to ¼” and finish the seam with a 3-thread overlocking stitch. You can also use a 4-thread overlocking stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. Just make sure to get the tension correct otherwise your seams make not hold together well.

I love to use swim fabrics for making clothes, because it has a beautiful drape to it and it sits beautifully over the body too. Some people might find wearing clothes made from swim fabrics a little warmer in Summer, so I recommend making the pattern design feature to be sleeveless and with an unlined bodice if possible. Using swim spandex for peg legs is my absolute favourite thing to sew. It feels amazing to wear and smooths the body nicely too.

Peg Legs with Twist Back Top both in swim spandex

I hope you dive in and start sewing with swim. I know you are going to love it as much as I do. As with anything, all it takes is a little practice.

Happy Sewing

Katy x

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Bear Hug Rug Tutorial

Happy Holidays, Pirate Friends!  We are excitedly back for another year and another round of holiday freebies to share with you!  Over the years, we’ve compiled different tutorials and patterns that we think would make *perfect* gifts for your friends and family. Curious about what we’ve already released in the way of holiday freebies? Head right here to see all of them: Holiday Freebies Roundup.

Today, we are bringing you the: Bear Hug Rug!

The Bear Hug Rug is pretty much a giant stuffed animal, with function. It can be used as a rug on the floor, while relaxing or reading a book. It can be used as a blanket with a big ole’ head for cuddling up with. Or it can be used as a giant stuffed animal, ready to be loved.

The pattern construction is super simple and the results are so fun. We hope you love it!

Supplies Needed:

  • Bear Hug Rug pattern pieces
  • Fabric Requirements: Fleece / Minky / Faux Fur, etc, 54″ wide
    • 2 Yards Main
    • 2 Yards Lining
  • Fiberfill (for head)
  • Scraps of fabric for facial features
  • Buttons / Embroidery Thread for Eyes

TUTORIAL

Place 2 ear pieces, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around entire round edge.

Turn right side out and place pin/clip at the middle, bottom edge. Repeat for second ear.

**Tip from our testers: if your ears are on the floppy side, you might want to add a little polyfil to them to help them stand up.

On head piece, use the pattern piece to place pin/clip for ear markings.

With right sides together, match ear pieces to markings on the main head piece. Baste ears in place.

On main snout piece, center the nose piece and attach using your favorite applique stitch.

Note: If nose fabric is woven / can fray, be sure to use an interfacing before fixing it to the snout to avoid future issues with fraying.

With main snout facing up, place lining fabric on top, right sides together.

Sew around entire outer edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Clip curved edges, using pinking shears / “v” pattern to help with a smoother turned edge.

Careful not to cut through the main fabric, clip a hole through the middle of your lining fabric piece.

Turn the snout right sides out, through the hole you just cut.

Press out all of your seams.

Place the snout piece, centered on the main head piece. Edge or applique stitch snout to attach it.

Add your eyes.

**I used these large buttons and hand stitched them on. You can also choose to embroider this detail, or add fleece circles. Whatever your preference is!

Your bear’s face should be nearly complete!

With the head right side up, place the lining fabric on top, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the outer curved edge, leaving about 5″ open at the bottom for turning.

Turn the head right sides out, through the opening.

Being sure not to overstuff the head, fill it with fiberfill.

Using a blind stitch, close the opening on the head piece.

With the body pieces right sides together, sew around entire outer edge, leaving a 5″ opening for turning.

Clip all of your extra seam allowance for easier turning.

Turn through the opening.

Tuck your seam allowances into the opening and blind stitch closed.

Align the head between the front legs.

Hold head in place and flip both the body and head over. By hand, use a whip stitch to secure the head to the body piece.

I like to use a wider-eyed needle, with embroidery floss, for some extra hold.

You’re finished!

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me!  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Braided Infinity Scarf Tutorial

Happy Holidays, Pirate Friends!  We are excitedly back for another year and another round of holiday freebies to share with you!  Over the years, we’ve compiled different tutorials and patterns that we think would make *perfect* gifts for your friends and family. Curious about what we’ve already released in the way of holiday freebies? Head right here to see all of them: Holiday Freebies Roundup.

Today, we are bringing you the: Braided Infinity Scarf!!

If you were looking for a quick gift to give someone, look no further. Because this “braided” infinity scarf just might do the trick! I don’t want to toot my own horn just yet, but I think you might love this even more than the Hidden Pocket Infinity Scarf from a couple of years ago. We will see, won’t we? 😉

Supplies Needed:

  • Two (2) 18″ L x 54″ or (width of fabric) W pieces of knit fabric

Lay one piece with right side facing upward, and fold in half meeting the long edges together, right sides together.

Sew along long, raw edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn piece right side out.

Repeat with second fabric piece.

Lay one tube of fabric in half, in a “u”-shape

Lay second tube of fabric on top, in a similar “u”-shape.

Reach your hand over the top fabric loop, and through the bottom fabric loop.

Gather both ends of the top fabric with your hand.

Pull the ends through the bottom loop.

Separate the top fabric ends.

Put your hand through the bottom loop and grab the end furthest from you.

Pull end through the loop.

Put your hand through the bottom loop and now grab the end closest to you.

Pull end through the loop.

Adjust the “braids” to your liking.

Open up the ends and match the opposite sides to one another.

With right sides together, match up the two seams along the raw edges.

Pin / clip around the opening, matching right sides together.

**This step is a little tricky. You won’t be able to align the two pieces all the way around. Go as far as you can without stretching out your fabrics.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around entire raw edge. Leaving an opening for pulling/turning the fabric.

Pull the fabric through, to turn everything right sides out.

Tuck the seam allowances into the opening.

Pin and, using your favorite stitch, close the opening.

You’re finished!

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me!  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Paw-Fect Stocking Tutorial

Happy Holidays, Pirate Friends!  We are excitedly back for another year and another round of holiday freebies to share with you!  Over the years, we’ve compiled different tutorials and patterns that we think would make *perfect* gifts for your friends and family. Curious about what we’ve already released in the way of holiday freebies? Head right here to see all of them: Holiday Freebies Roundup.

Today, we are bringing you the: Paw-fect Stocking!!

If you’re anything like me, your fur family members also get visits from Santa Claus — or maybe Santa Paws? (ba-dum-ching!) We’ve always hung stocking for our pups and filled them with toys and treats. And since we added another furry family member this year to my own household, I felt like maybe it was time to make new stockings for all three of our babies!

And I’m thinking maybe you might like this for your canine and feline family members as well!

Supplies Needed:

Prepare all of your pieces.

Cut:
— 2 each: Main, Lining + Interfacing Stocking Pieces
— 2 Large “Toes” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 2 Small “Toes” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 1 “Pad” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 1 Cuff in Accent Fabric
— 1 Hanging Tab in Accent Fabric

Apply interfacing to the main outer stocking pieces and the paw print applique pieces.

Using the stocking piece as a guide for placement, lay out the applique pieces.

Using your favorite stitch, applique the pieces to the front stocking.

Place the back outer stocking piece on top of the front piece, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along all edges, leaving only the top, straight edge open.

Trim down your seam allowance, and clip into the corner points of the paws, being careful not to cut your stitches.

**Repeat last three steps with stocking lining pieces.

Leave your lining piece wrong sides out, and turn your main piece right sides out. Slip the lining into the main piece.

Fold hanging tab in half, wrong sides together. Iron.

Open up hanging tab piece and fold outer long edge toward crease. Iron.

Repeat with other outer edge.

Edge stitch along double folded edge. 

Fold hanging tab in half. 

Place hanging tab inside of stocking. Align it just behind the side seam, toward the back of the stocking. Clip or pin in place. 

Fold cuff piece in half, along short edges. Right sides together. 

Fold in half again, this time meeting the shorter raw edges together. 

Sew along side edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Flip cuff right sides out. Using pins / clips, mark half points of cuff. 

Slide cuff piece inside of the stocking, aligning the half points to the side seams. 

Sew along entire raw top edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Pull cuff up and out of the stocking. 

Flip cuff down toward body of stocking. 

You’re finished! (Don’t forget to press your stocking before hanging it up!) 

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me!  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

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