Blog - Patterns for Pirates

P4P University- Facings

May 27, 2021

Today’s P4P University is all about facings. We will take a look at what facings are used for, how to draft your own, and where you can use them in your patterns. A facing is a way to finish the edge of a garment. Although you will often see tutorials for using a facing in necklines, they can be used in many other ways as well. Today we will look at both a simple neckline facing, an all-in-one facing, and how to use a hem facing.

**A video tutorial is available at the bottom of this blog post. **

WHEN TO USE A FACING

You can use a facing when sewing a pattern to finish any garment edges (necklines, sleeveless armholes, hems, and more). While they are more common in woven garments, you can also attach a simple facing to a knit garment if you are looking to replace the neckline binding or band. Let’s see how we can draft and use a simple neckline facing on the P4P Brunch Blouse Pattern.

NECKLINE FACING

You will need the paper pattern, tracing paper, pencil, ruler

Begin by measuring 2 inches down all around the neckline of the paper pattern and placing marks. Draw a curved line to connect your markings. Trace this line, as well as the original neckline, onto your piece of tracing paper. This will now be your facing pattern piece. Repeat for the pattern back. **The Brunch Blouse uses a center back seam. To remove this in your facing, cut off 1/2 inch from the center back line on your pattern piece. Then cut the fabric on the fold at the new center back line.**

Cut your pattern pieces and facing pieces from your fabric. Make sure you are cutting your facing pieces on the fold as you would your front and back bodice pieces. Apply interfacing to the back of your facing pieces. You can leave off interfacing if you would prefer as I did in this knit pajama top. Make sure you use knit interfacing if applying to a knit garment.

Sew the shoulder seams for your front and back bodice as well as the front and back facings. Press the seams open. Finish the outside edge of your facing with your serger, an overlock stitch on your machine, or your preferred finish. Place the bodice right sides out and mark the quarter points with pins. Repeat with your facing. Match your facing and bodice, right sides together at pins. Stitch together at 1/4 inch using a long stretch stitch for knit garments. **Note this will finish the neckline at 1/4 inch lower than if you were to use a band. If you do not want a deeper neckline, make sure you add the additional 1/4 inch to the neckline during the tracing stage**

Press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch. (See this tutorial for help with understitching) Fold the facing to the inside of the garment and press well. You can now topstitch along the facing edge or simply tack the facing down at the shoulder seams for a cleaner finish.

ALL IN ONE FACING

An all-in-one facing is a great way to create a clean finish on your sleeveless tops. This will create a finished edge on both the neckline and armholes using one piece. Here is how you can create this facing using the P4P Brunch Blouse.

Begin by marking two inches down from the underarm seam and make a mark on your pattern. Continue marking two inches down around the arm and neckline edges, creating a soft curve to bridge the two areas. See the pictures below for how I marked both the front and back bodices. Trace this new facing piece onto tracing paper using your marks and the original pattern lines at the shoulder, neck, and arms.

Cut your pattern pieces as well as facing pieces from your fabric. Cut your facing pieces from interfacing as well. Sew your bodice together at the shoulders only and center back if you are using the Brunch Blouse. For this facing technique, we will be using our interfacing to create the clean finished edge– the steps will look slightly different from the neckline facing tutorial above. Feel free to use either method on your facings.

Sew only the shoulder seams on BOTH the facing pieces and the interfacing pieces- DO NOT FUSE the interfacing yet. Next, sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together, along the outside curved edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip the seam allowances around the curves. Finally, turn the interfacing and facing, right sides out. Your fusible side should now be facing the wrong side of the facing. Carefully align the pieces and press well. This will now give you a clean, finished edge along your facing without having to use your serger or machine.

Next, lay the bodice right sides out, flat on the table. Lay the facing on top, right sides together. Match all seams and pin around the neckline. Stitch with 1/4 inch seam allowance, then clip and grade seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing and understitch at the neckline. Once the neckline is done, turn the garment right side out and lay flat. Roll one side of the bodice in a tight roll towards the opposite shoulder seam. Wrap shoulder seam fabric around the rolled fabric, pinning right sides together. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam, being careful to not catch rolled fabric while stitching. Carefully pull the fabric through the opening and understitch as far as possible on each side of the armhole. Then repeat on the opposite side.

Fold facing up away from the underarm, match seams and stitch the side seams per the pattern. Trim away any bulk and fold seam allowance back down. Tack at underarm. Repeat on other side. The all-in-one facing is now complete. Finish the top per the pattern instructions.

HEM FACING

The final type of facing I will show today is the hem facing. This simple finish is helpful when creating a curved hem like the Brunch Blouse.

To create the hem facing pattern pieces, take your front and back bodice pieces and mark 2 inches from the bottom edge working from side seam to center. Make sure to mark your fold line and trace your facing piece onto paper. Cut one front and back facing from fabric and interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to the back of the facing pieces. Sew the side seams of your facing and finish the narrow side of the facing. (Make sure you are finishing the top of your pattern piece and not the bottom edge. Otherwise, your piece will not fit inside your garment without bunching.)

Complete your top per the instructions until the bottom hem. Lay your facing and top, right sides together and sew the raw edges together at 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing. Understitch. Press the facing towards the wrong side of the top. Finish with your preferred stitching. You can edgestitch the facing or handstitch a blind hem.

This video will show you how to create the facings discussed in this blog post for those who prefer to learn that way.

Thank you for joining me today to learn all about facings. You can find more sewing tips and tricks on the P4P University blog posts.

Shannon

P4P University – Interfacing for Garment Sewing

May 17, 2021

The correct use of interfacing is one of the main things that takes your garment sewing to the next level. Today we will be talking about different types of interfacing, why you might want to use it and how to correctly apply it.

The first thing we need to clarify is the difference between stabiliser and interfacing. Getting these two confused is easy to do, and people can often buy the wrong one for their needs, but their uses are quite different.

STABILISER

Stabiliser is a type of textile used to add extra weight to a particular part of a piece of fabric, usually so some sort of decorative work can be added to that section. For example, you might add stabiliser to the wrong side of the front of a pair of children’s pyjamas to add some embroidery or applique to the bodice. The stabiliser helps keep the fabric from distorting when adding the decoration to it. It can be left on, trimmed down or torn off after use, depending on it’s type. The picture below shows some embroidery on the reverse of a pair of pyjamas. You can see the tear-away stabiliser still sitting between the A and the Y, after the rest has been removed.

INTERFACING

Interfacing is a type of textile used on the wrong side of a fabric to make that particular area stronger/more weighty. For example it is often used in shirt collars to help them stand upright. The interfacing gives the fabric more rigidity and is not removed, it is permanently attached.

There are two types of interfacing, differentiated by the way you attach them to your fabric. ‘Sew In’ interfacing is sewn onto the wrong side of your main fabric, within the seam allowance so it is not visible when the garment is finished. Alternatively it can be quilted on in a particular pattern of your choice, so that it is visible when completed. It seems to be less popular these days, but is the traditional, couture interfacing.

More popular is ‘Fusible’ interfacing. This is the same as ‘Sew In’ but it has a layer of heat activated adhesive on the wrong side, which means it can be ironed directly onto the wrong side of your main fabric and adheres permanently. The instructions for ironing will either be printed on the selvedge, if you have bought it by the metre, or they will be on the packet if you have bought it bagged. It is important that you ensure the interfacing is fully adhered before sewing the garment together because otherwise it can start to peel off and look messy. This picture below shows an example of an iron-on interfacing attached to the wrong side of a piece of cotton.

Interfacing comes in many different weights, from a light weight interfacing used to add a little extra body to the facing on a silk blouse, to a very heavy weight interfacing used to reinforce the brim of a cap/hat. I used a medium weight interfacing along the placket of my So Classic Sundress to give added support for the poppers and stop it distorting with wear.

Pattern instructions will advise you which weight of interfacing you will need, so that you can ensure you purchase the type needed to get the finish shown in the pattern listing pictures. For example, the Timeless Tunic notions require a lightweight interfacing for adding body to the neckline facing to help it keep the correct shape.

You will also find interfacing used in woven patterns to add body/structure/strength to shoulder seams, around pocket openings, along plackets, in collars, and even over entire bodice and sleeve pieces in jackets and coats.

KNIT/STRETCH INTERFACING

As well as woven interfacing, you can also find knit/stretch interfacing used for adding greater structure or strength to knit fabrics. It can be used to stop these fabrics from stretching out too far, for example it is often used around pockets in a knit dress, so that the dress doesn’t become misshapen with use. I like to use it to add greater structure to the front of my Go To Jacket before sewing on the zipper, as it helps stop the fabric stretching out when attaching the non-stretch zipper to the stretch fabric.

In this video I discuss a few different types of interfacing and show how they are adhered to fabric. Sometimes seeing the fabrics being handled can give you a much clearer idea of what they would be like to use in real life.

Whichever type or weight of interfacing you need, the pattern you are using will give you details of what you need and when you need to use it.

Now that you know more about how to use interfacing, why not take a look at one of these patterns above or the Timeless Tunic or Tiny Timeless and put your new found skills to use.

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

Protected: FABRIC FOR PIRATES :: MAY 2021 REVEAL

May 5, 2021

Cutie Briefs – easy hack

April 20, 2021

The Cutie Booty and Cutie patootie Boxer Briefs patterns have release and they are not one to be skipped! The pattern features a center front and a center back pieces as well as a separate lining pattern. In this easy hack, I wanted to show you how to fully line the center front and back. This hack is perfect if you want to enclose the briefs’ seams.

Start by cutting the pattern pieces as instructed in the tutorial. You will cut two of the front center and two of the center back piece. You will not need the liner.

Stitch the front and back main pieces right sides together at the crotch seam. Repeat with the lining.

Matching the notches in the pattern (front and back), pin the main the the leg piece right sides together. Take the lining and pin it right sides to the wrong sides of the leg, making sure the notches are in the correct spot. Your leg piece will be sandwiched between the two lining pieces.

Sew them with your favorite stretch stitch or serger.

Turn the briefs right side out. They will look like the picture below.

Pin the right side of the remaining leg to the right side of the lining piece, matching the notches.

Bring the lining over and “stuff” the finished leg of the briefs inside the center “sandwich”. This is very similar to the burrito roll method used to create lined tanks. Pin it in place.

Sew the pinned side with a serger or a stretch stitch.

Pull the briefs right side our through one of the openings. Tadah!! Magic! Now your Cutie Briefs center seams and fully enclosed.

Finish the briefs as instructed in the tutorial. The example in this blog is the Cutie Patootie youth option but this hack can be done to the adult one too. Just imagine using lace for the leg pieces and a solid color for the center pieces. Va! Va! Va! Voom!

I hope you will give this easy hack a try! Can’t wait to see what you create!

Cutie Booty Boxer Briefs :: New Pattern Release

April 20, 2021

I’m excited to release the new pattern out to the world and hope it’s as loved as it is here in my house! I had a pair of underwear just like this for so many years they were literally falling apart at many seams LOL…So… let’s welcome the newest Patterns for Pirates patterns:

The Cutie Booty and Cutie Patootie Boxer Briefs are a classic, snug fit boxer brief with a center front and back pieces that are perfect for using up those previous scraps you’ve hoarded 😉 The shorts style are so wonderful that you don’t have to worry about them creeping up into the dreaded wedgie! These are my very favorite summer pjs and they’re perfectly perfect under dresses as well. There are so many options for waistbands, leg finishes, inseams, rises that you’re surely to find the right combination for yourself or anyone you’re sewing a pair up for.

Drafted for high stretch (4 way stretch) knit fabrics like cotton spandex. You’re free to venture out and try other high stretch knits, but a good quality cotton spandex is hands down my absolute favorite fabric for these.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like multiple complete sew ups covering many options and how to attach lace waistband.

The youth sizes range from 12m – 14 and the adult sizes are XXS – Plus 5X.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at all of the options!

There are three options for rise: low, mid, and high. Low hits around hip bones, mid hits at preferred waist, and high up around belly button. It includes three inseam length options: short, mid, and long. Depending on the leg finishing option you choose will also determine the inseam length- we include how to hem, add knit bands, or add stretch lace for finishing the legs. For the waistband we included three options as well! You can grab some exposed elastic for a super classic look, a knit band for a quick and easy sew, or some stretch lace for a soft and pretty look.

I mentioned I LOVE this style for sleeping in during the hotter months… so I put together a video showing off what tops I like to pair with this style…

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the adorable and comfortable Cutie Booty patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, April 27, 2021.

CUTIE BOOTY BOXER BRIEFS | CUTIE PATOOTIE BOXER BRIEFS | CUTIE BOOTY BOXER BRIEFS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

ADULT| YOUTH

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Cutie Booty Easy Hack post.

Protected: FABRIC FOR PIRATES :: April 2021 REVEAL

April 7, 2021

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 7

March 30, 2021

Thank you all for joining me last week for the Vintage Jumper Sew Along. I loved seeing all the beautiful jumpers being created. I know you have been waiting for this post so I won’t keep you in suspense any longer.

Our sew along winner is: Brianna Lynn! Brianna sewed not one, not two but THREE Vintage jumpers for her beautiful little one. What an outstanding job! Brianna won a $20 gift certificate to Patterns for Pirates and a $50 gift card to The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics.

We have a runner up winner to announce too. Congratulations, Darci Friberg! Darci will receive a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids.

Huge THANK YOU to our Sew Along sponsor for not only providing the prize but also the fabric I used for my own Vintage Jumper.

As I pass the baton to Colleen from M4M, I wanted to remind you about the Spring Sale and Capsule Contest going on right now on both the P4P and the M4M sites. See you back for our next sew along in May!

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Spring Sale and Capsule Contest

March 29, 2021

We’re teaming up with my sister over at Made for Mermaids for another Capsule Contest!

We’ve done a few in the past and they’re a great motivator to create a small capsule that really fills out your or a loved one’s closet with purposeful makes! You can use any M4M or P4P patterns to create a 9 piece capsule. We know creating 9 pieces is a lot, so feel free to use a couple old makes (still must be a M4M or P4P pattern) to work off of. We’re asking for at least 5 NEW makes in the contest entry though. To help out if you need more patterns to make the perfect capsule both of us are putting a SITE WIDE SALE up!

Here is how to enter the contest: Must post with the hashtag #sewminicapsule to be eligible for the weekly and final giveaways. #madeformermaids #patternsforpirates is a plus on other platforms You can post in both our FB groups, on Instagram or tag M4M on TikTok (I haven’t been convinced to hop on that train yet ;)) .

The more places you post, the higher chance to win of course! You can start sewing anytime.

*We’ll choose 4 weekly winners on each Friday, April 2nd, 9th, 16th, and 23rd (16 total weekly chances to win).

Weekly winners will receive a pattern of choice from each M4M and P4P plus a $20 fabric gift card (or $20 PayPal).

*Final capsules must be posted by April 30th midnight cst for runner-up and grand prizes.

2 runner ups will receive a $20 store credit to both M4M and P4P plus $50 fabric gift card (or $50 PayPal)
2 grand prize winners will receive $20 store credit to both M4M and P4P plus a Brother 1034D serger OR $200 PayPal (they can choose if they already have a serger/want the PayPal)

And if you’ve never created a capsule before Megan created these amazing idea boards to help inspire you and just give a few great examples 🙂

We hope you have fun planning, making, sharing and wearing your new capsules! We can’t wait to see them!

-Judy and Megan

P4P-M4M

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 6

March 27, 2021

Good morning, pirates! We made it to the last day of our Vintage Jumper sew along. Today we put the finishing touches on the jumper by adding the 3 buttons and buttonholes as well as hemming the skirt/pants.

I start with the side button. If your machine came with the buttonhole foot attachment, grab it now. If not, you can manually make the buttonhole by marking the location and stitching a rectangle (the size of your button) with a tight zig zag stitch (also known as satin stitch). If you’re new to sewing buttons, check out our P4P University Buttons and Buttonholes blog, where I show you various techniques.

If you did not try on the jumper yesterday, do that now and mark where you would like the straps to be for best fit. Check out the Vintage Jumper Hacks blog where you will find a great alternative to the bib buttons. Rachel shows you (with a video too!!) how to add overall buckles instead!

Last step of the day is to hem the skirt or the pants. Ohh, and remember to give your finish garment a good press!

Check out today’s video below! Once you complete your project, add a picture of your jumper to the comments of day 6 photo of the sew along album. This is where the P4P team will look to select the winners for the sew along. I do encourage you to share your Vintage Jumper in the main group too so we can all admire it.

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 5

March 26, 2021

Hurray! Day 5 is here! By the end of today you will have a jumper, albeit without buttons and hems but a jumper nonetheless. Today we add the waistband that will be attached to the skirt/pants and bib/straps.

Start by interfacing the waistband main and lining with knit interfacing. If you did not add the notches when you cut the fabric, do your markings now! Don’t skip these steps, the markings will be very helpful when you sew up the waistband. Below you can see how Judy creates the youth one. Check it out!

In today’s video I show you how I add the adult waistband to my skirt jumper. My favorite part is that the band has no exposed edges! Everything is enclosed so it makes for more sensory friendly garment. When attaching the straps to the back waistband, make sure that the “pointy” side faces out. This will ensure that the straps will lay flat on the back.

After you finish today’s steps, try the jumper on. Check if you like the back pocket placement and where you will want the buttons on the straps. That’s the beauty of sewing for yourself! You get to customize it to your figure. Don’t forget to check in with your progress photo in the comments of day 5 thread in the Sew Along group on Facebook. See you back here tomorrow to finish up the Vintage Jumper!