Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 6

Wooohoo! You did it! Last sew along day is here and all we have to do is add sew then skirt to the bodice and hem it. Easy peasy!

Mark the center of the front and back bodice with a pin or a clip. The skirt pattern has notches to show its center. Pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together, matching the center marks and the side seams. Sew with the serger or a stretch stitch. Optionally you can top stitch the seam allowance up.

Lastly, hem the bottom of the skirt by folding 1” and PRESSING! Do not skip steam pressing before you sew…and after. You sew the hem using your sewing machine’s twin needles option or your coverstitch as I have. Before you start, take a look over our Hemming blog because we have a few tips for easy and successful hemming. If you are finishing the bottom hem using twin needles, a good refresher blog is the P4P University Twin Needles Tips.

Last Rainbow dress SAL video is below. Once you complete your project, post a picture of your finished dress in the comments of day 6 photo of the sew along album. That’s where the team will pick the two winners. I will announce them on the blog on Tuesday. 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 5

Ahoy, matey! We are almost there! Today we finish the bodice by adding the sleeves. 

The Rainbow Dress includes 2 style sleeves, a fitted style and a gathered one. Both available in short, 3/4 and long length. The fitted sleeves are finished with a hem. The gathered sleeves are banded.

I opted for the gathered style, so you can see this option in today’s video. Start by sewing two rows of stitches, one about 1/4” and one 3/8” away from the raw edge, in between the two notches. Use the longest stitch length your machine allows. Do not backstitch! Leave long tails at the beginning and end of each row. Pull on then tails to gather the sleeve, matching the 3 notches on the arm curve with the ones on the bodice (front, shoulder seam, back).  Pin in place and stitch. 

Sew each of the arm bands, right sides together at the short ends to create a loop. Gather the bottom of the sleeves to match then arm bands. All you have left to do is sew the bands to the sleeves, right sides together, and press. 

Here is day 5 video. Once you finish the bodice, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 5 photo in the sew along album. See you back here tomorrow for the final steps!

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 4

Welcome to the fourth day! Today we start working on the bodice, pretty quick sewing day. 

Let’s start by placing the bodice front and back, right sides together, aligning the shoulder edge. If your fabric is on the stretchier/heavier side, you can add clear elastic into the seam. Just remember to keep the seam allowance 1/2”, even if the clear elastic is narrower than that. Sew the shoulder seam with the serger or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine.

Whether you chose the high or the low scoop neckline(adult pattern only), take a look over our P4P University Neckbands 101 before you attach then neckband. 

Top stitching then neckband is optional. However, if you to decide to top stitch the collar style, I strongly recommend using a triple stretch stitch or a lightning bolt stitch for this step. 

In the video below I show you how to sew the shoulder seam and add the neckband using a serger. When you finish these steps be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo  (album is in the M4M & P4P Sew along group). See you back here tomorrow!

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 3

Welcome to day 3 of our Rainbow dress sew along! 

Today we create the collar and baste it to the front bodice. You will notice that the collar lining pieces are slightly smaller than the main lining. That is intentional, it will help the collar lay nice and flat once sewn. The Rainbow dress collar can be woven or knit. I strongly encourage you to interface at least the lining piece with a woven interfacing, such as Pellon SF101. 

I have decided to add a little extra detail to my Rainbow dress collar so you will see how I incorporate piping in this project. I prefer store bought piping because it saves me the effort and time, but you can certainly make your own. To create your piping from scratch, simply cut strips of woven fabric that are 1.25″ wide on the bias. Press the strip lengthwise wrong sides together. Lay your cord in the crease and stitch with a long straight stitch as close to the cord as possible. OR….go to Joann or Walmart and grab some pre made piping 😉

Pin the piping to the outer curve of the main collar pieces, aligning the raw edges. Start about 1/2″ lower than the top and finish about 1/2″ from the end, veering your piping. This detail will ensure that there is no extra bulk in the shoulder seam or neckline. Baste it in place. I show you this step in the day 3 video.

Tip: use a zipper foot when working with piping! 

Now that the piping is added, place your lining piece over the main, right sides together. Ease the collar pieces as show in Judy’s video below and stitch.  

Turn the two collar pieces right side out and give them a good steam press! Optionally, you can top stitch the outer edge. If you added piping, use the zipper foot when top stitching.

The final step for today is to baste your collar to the front bodice. Align  the raw edges of the collar with the neckline and shoulder seam. Remember that for the adult Rainbow dress this option is only available for the high neckline. 

You can see how I created the collar in the day 3 video below. Once you complete these steps, add your check in photo in the comments of day 3 pic. You can find the check in album on FB, in our sew along group. 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 2

Welcome to the second day of our Rainbow dress Sew Along! Today we create the skirt by sewing the colorblock pieces and adding the the optional pockets. But let’s be honest here, who would skip the pockets? 😉

I love to lay the pieces in order (1 to 5) on the table, right side up to make sure I don’t mix them up. Place piece 5 over piece 4 and sew along the edge. I like to use my serger for this step (just remember the seam allowance is 1/2″!) however, you can sew the colorbloking part with a straight stitch. That part of the skirt will not be stretched when worn. 

Top stitching the seams is optional, however, encouraged. I don’t like the feel of the seam allowance  against my skin so I always top stitch it down. You can do this with your coverstitch, twin needles or just a simple straight stitch. 

It’s pockets time! Using the marking on the pattern, place your pocket pieces on the skirt, right sides together. Sew this step with your sewing machine! I show you in today’s video how to alternate between the sewing machine and serger when you add pockets to the skirt. 

You can see how I create my skirt in the video below. Once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo. You can find the Rainbow dress SAL album in the M4M/P4P sew along group on Facebook. 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 1

Welcome to the 🌈 Rainbow🌈 Dress SEW ALONG! 

Day 1 is reserved for printing the pattern and cutting the fabric. But first, if you have not purchased the Rainbow dress you can grab it here. If you’re sewing for a little one, a youth pattern is available too. You will get the most bank for your buck with the Bundle option, just think of all the matching dresses and tops! Before you select which style you are sewing along, browse over the Round Up Blog where we show you all options available.

Now that you have the patterns it’s time to select which file format you would like to use. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. Our most recent patterns include videos as well so be sure to check them out!

Let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using Bamboo Spandex from Hissy Fit Fabrics for my dress. This is by far my favorite knit type for this pattern. I also like a soft Cotton Spandex, sweater knit, Rayon Spandex, Modal, ITY, Cupro and Double Brushed Poly for it. All these bases can be layered so beautifully for cooler weather.

Hissy Fit Fabrics is also the sponsor for this sew along so our two lucky winners will receive gift cards to their shop.

If you are unsure about which knit type will work best for your desired look, take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. Judy also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric.

I decided to add a cute piping detail to my collar. I love store bought piping but you can certainly make your own or just use faux piping. 

Day 1 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 1 photo of the Rainbow Dress SAL album  in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress :: New Pattern Release!!

Happy pattern release day, y’all!!

We are SO SUPER DUPER EXCITED to share all about the newest pattern releases we have over at Patterns for Pirates today! The Rainbow Dress is drafted for both adult and youth sizes and you are about to be as smitten with the pattern as we are!

The Rainbow Dress is such a fun and unique pattern that can be used to create a classic and simple dress or top or add all the fun details and create something extrodary! No matter what the dress option will have you feeling twirly and beautiful! The sleeve options will take you all year round.

Rainbows aren’t really your thing? That’s okay too, we included a plain skirt option as well.  And to make sure you weren’t left with no fun details we also added a fun gathered sleeve option, pockets, and an adorable peter pan style front collar.

The Rainbow Dress is drafted for high stretch knits like cotton spandex, double brushed poly, spandex rib knits, medium weight sweater knits, ITY, DTY, and the like.  The peter pan collar however can be made in a woven, so you can use that non-stretch lace that looks so classic and cute.

This dress was designed by my very own Rainbow Baby who happens to love rainbows.  I couldn’t imagine doing a rainbow dress without also supporting our friends in the LGBTQAI+community with the pattern, so a small proceeds of all sales will go to the Trevor Project and Share Pregnancy and Infant Loss Support (10% calculated at the end of each year).  So, if you purchase this pattern you can not only enjoy the fun, twirly, unique design, but also feel great that you’re helping support communities in need.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

The options include:

  • Gathered Sleeves w/cuffs (in short, 3/4 and long lengths)
  • Fitted sleeves (in short, 3/4 and long lengths)
  • Full circle skirt (plain or rainbow colorblocked)
  • Crop and Top length shirt bodices
  • Two necklines + optional Peter Pan collar for the higher version
  • Optional pockets

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

GATHERED SLEEVES

FITTED SLEEVES

PLAIN / RAINBOW COLORBLOCKED CIRCLE SKIRTS

CROP + TOP LENGTH SHIRTS

HIGH / LOW** NECKLINE / PETER PAN COLLAR

**Low Neckline option for adult pattern only.

OPTIONAL POCKETS

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Rainbow Dress patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, August 20, 2021.

RAINBOW DRESS | RAINBOW DRESS – YOUTH | RAINBOW DRESS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Rainbow Dress Album | Rainbow Dress – Youth Album

 

P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height

P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height

Today’s P4P University is all about adjusting a top pattern for height. We will take a look about the best practices for adjusting a pattern’s length, and how to create the best fit for your height.

Patterns for Pirates patterns are drafted for average height. That means in women’s patterns, they’re drafted for someone with the height of 5’5″. In this post, we will show you how to subtract or add length to a women’s top pattern to create the perfect fit.

 

DECIDING HOW MUCH TO ADD OR SUBTRACT TO A TOP PATTERN

When adjusting for height in a top pattern, it can feel a little daunting deciding how much to adjust by. But really, it’s just a little simple math. As a general rule of thumb, in women’s top patterns, you will want to add or subtract .5 inch for every inch you are off of the base of 5’5″. In our example today, we are making a Favorite Tee for someone measuring at a size XS, and is 5’1″. To determine how much length to subtract from the pattern, we simply find the difference between 5’5″ and 5’1″. That difference is 4 inches total. Now, keeping in mind our rule of thumb that for every inch difference in the wearer’s height from 5’5″, we take away .5 inches from the pattern, we will multiply 4 times .5 to get a total of 2 inches subtracted total.

Here it is written out:

5″5″-5’1″= 4″

4″ x .5 = 2″ subtracted from the pattern’s length

Conversely, if you are above the average 5’5″ the pattern is drafted for, you will find out how much to add to the pattern’s length by finding the difference in height, multiplying by .5 and ADDING it to the pattern’s length. It’s as simple as that!

WHERE TO SUBTRACT FROM/ ADD TO THE PATTERN

A common misconception is that one can simply add or subtract length to the bottom of a top to account for a difference in height. This is not usually the best course of action, as it can very often change the overall shape and intended fit of the garment. The most important thing to do is to spread the changes you make throughout the length of the bodice. This can be done to suit your preferences, but four good places to start are at armscye,  just under the bust line, just under the waistline, and just above the bottom hemline.

Adding throughout the pattern like this helps to ensure that the bust, waist, and hip of the garment stay where they actually are on the wearer’s body. Patterns for Pirates uses a standard side waist length of 8″ and a waist to hip length of 8.25″, so if you know your specific length measurements between those points, you will want to add/remove the exact amount in those areas. For our purposes today, we are equally spreading our change in length throughout the pattern.

Take both your front and bodice pattern pieces, and mark with a line where you will be adding or subtracting length, such as we have, pictured below:

 

The next step is to cut the pattern pieces along those lines, so that these pieces can either be shortened or lengthened, depending on your fitting needs.

ADJUSTING THE TOP PATTERN PIECES TO EITHER LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN

In our example today, we will be subtracting length across the cuts in our pattern pieces to create the perfect fit for our wearer. Because we will taking away length in FOUR places (armscye, under the bustline, under the waistline, and  just above the hemline) we will be dividing our total amount to be taken from the pattern’s length by 4.

2″ total needed to be taken from the pattern’s length

2″ divided by 4 = .5″

Therefore, we will be subtracting .5″ from the four different places in the pattern mentioned above.  To do this, we will reposition our pattern pieces to overlap by .5″ each, and tape in place. Remember: you will want to do this to both the front and back bodice pieces of your top pattern.

If you are adding length to a pattern, you will want to spread your pattern pieces by the required measurement to create more length. When you are done re-taping, you will have two new bodice pieces adjusted for your height!

SEW UP YOUR TOP AS USUAL

Now that we’ve adjusted the front and back bodice pieces of our top, we can go ahead and sew as usual. Using your newly adjusted pattern pieces, cut your fabric and sew away.

And it’s as simple as that! Keep in mind that every body is different, and it may take a little practice to get the perfect fit when adjusting for height in a top. But with these simple beginning steps and general rules of thumb, we hope that you can adjust your patterns easily to create that perfect fit every time!

 

Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: New Pattern Release!

Guess what day it is?? It’s pattern release day!!! And we’ve got a doozy of a pattern to tell you all about. It checks off SO MANY requests that we’ve had come in over the last few years.

Let’s talk all about the new Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns, in both youth and adult sizes!!

You will have so much fun sewing up these simple bottoms with the adorable paperbag ruffle top! They’re on trend and comfortable with an elastic waistband.  They’re perfect for woven fabrics with no stretch, stretch wovens or even a stable knit.  The ruffle along the top of the waistband is adorable and fun to wear year round paired with a tank or a cardigan.  You can pink the perfect length shorts from 3″ or 5″ inseams.  The above ankle capri pant is an adorable more fitted pant you can easily dress up or down with different tops and shoes.  You can go short with a mini skirt or longer with a knee length.

Pair any of these options with adorable patch pockets big enough to fit your giant cell phone in comfortably! You can go all out and add belt loops and a tie belt to tie everything together as well!

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

The options include: Options include:  3″ or 5″ inseam shorts for adult/ shorts, 26″ capri pants, mini for adult/mid thigh skirt, knee skirt, patch pockets, belt loops and tie belt.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

SKIRT LENGTHS (MINI + KNEE)

SHORTS (3″ INSEAM / 5″ INSEAM ADULT)

ABOVE ANKLE PANT LENGTH

PATCH POCKETS

BELT LOOPS + BELT

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 19, 2021.

PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – YOUTH | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Paperbag Pants + Skirt Album | Paperbag Pants + Skirt – Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Paperbag Pants + Skirt Easy Hacks post.

 

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