Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 6

Good morning friends! You did it!! You made it to the last sewing day. All we have left to do today is to hem the bottom and add the closures.

HEMMING

The Lumberjack features a 1/2″ hem allowance and a curved hem. Since the shirt is woven, I find it easier to run a serger stitch along the raw edge and press 1/4″. Stitch down then fold again 1/4″. Sew with a slightly longer stitch going very slow where the front plackets are. That part is pretty bulky. Give your hem a good steam press so that you eliminated any waviness from sewing the curved hem.

CLOSURES

Time to put the finishing touch on your Lumberjack. Choose your favorite closure and mark the placement. The pattern includes a marking guide that you can print, no additional tools needed. If you add buttons and buttonholes, take a look over our  Buttons 101 P4P University blog. I give you some tips and tricks for a smooth process. For my Lumberjack I opted for metal spring snaps. I love the look of these metallic snaps and how easy they are to install. You can see how I added them in the video below. 

Great job!! All you have left to do is add your final photo to the comments of day 6 photo in the Lumberjack SAL album. That’s where the team will pick the two winners. There is still time to catch up. Winners will be announced on Tuesday. 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 5

Hello, friends and welcome to day 5 of the Lumberjack Sew Along! We are almost there! I love seeing all the beautiful shirts being created this week. Today we tackle the collar or hood. 

Hood

For a more sporty look and “easier” construction you can add a hood to your Lumberjack. The hood can be made of either knit fabric or woven so you can get really creative with it. Line the hood with sherpa for a super cuddly one or line it with a fun minky print for an extra little something. Once you sew the hood pieces right sides together along the curve, place the lining and main right sides together. Sew along the face opening, turn right side out and top stitch. All you have left to do is attach the hood to the neck opening and finish the raw edge with single fold bias tape. I highly encourage you to use store bought bias tape, it will save you so much time. In a pinch, you can certainly create your own. 

Collar

Oh the dreaded collar! Let me guess! It’s the “scariest” part of shirt! I hope I can convince you today that collars can be fun and not so difficult. The key to a great looking collar is making sure that the seam allowance is correct throughout. Another advice I have for when creating the collar is to press as you go. Remember to fuse the interfacing to the lining pieces of both the collar and the collar stand. If you added woven cuffs yesterday, you will find that the process is pretty similar today. Do not skip pressing 1/2″ hem on the collar stand bottom lining! Just as for the cuffs, prepressing this fold helps tremendously when enclosing the raw edge of the neckline in the collar. 

You can see in the day 5 video how I added the woven collar to my Lumberjack. Once you finish your collar or hood, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 5 photo of the Lumberjack  sew along album. 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 4

Welcome to the 4th day of the Lumberjack sew along. Today we finish the sleeves with either cuffs. 

Knit cuffs

The simplest way to finish the sleeves is with a knit cuff. Make sure that the fabric you use has great recovery and stretch. My favorite bases for cuffs are cotton spandex, rib knit and french terry. It is very important that you follow the grain of the fabric when cutting the cuffs. Lastly, press! Press and press some more! You will love the finished cuffs much better if you press throughout.

Woven cuffs

I opted for the woven cuffs for my Lumberjack. I love the classic look. If you have not done the vertical slits marked on the pattern pieces, now is the time to add them. You will now bind the opening with the fabric piece that is cut on the bias. Remember, the lining is the interfaced piece. 

Tip: Do not skip pressing the lining 1/2″ along the bottom. It will make a world of difference when you stitch the cuff on. 

If you need any visual help, take a look over today’s video. I show you step by step how to add  woven cuffs to your Lumberjack shirt. Once you finish the steps, post a photo of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of this sew along album. 

 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 3

Ahoy, pirates! Today, on day 3, we add the sleeves and sew the side seams.

Sleeves

Start by running a basting stitch along the curve of the sleeve. Gently and ever so slightly pull on the basting threads so it creates a faint gather. This will help when easing the sleeves into the sleeve opening. Pin the sleeves to the bodice, matching the shoulder seams with the notches. Stitch down with a 1/2″ seam allowance making sure that there are no puckers or folds along the curve. 

If you are doing the unlined option, finish the raw edge with your serger or a zig zag stitch. If you are sewing the lined option, repeat these steps for the lining. 

Inseam pockets

Before you sew the side seams you have to add the pockets. You will notice that the pattern features two different pocket shapes depending on whether you line or not your Lumberjack. While the unlined pockets may seem “odd” they, are drafted this way so they will be stitched into the front placket. This will ensure that the pocket won’t peek out from under the shirt when worn. 

Make sure that you add the pocket placement slits/marking from the pattern pieces! It’s highly important that you follow the marking instructions. 

Side seams

Once the pockets are sewing in the side seams, place the shirt right sides together matching the underarm points. Sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance. If you opted for the unlined style, finish the raw edge with your serger. If you are doing the lined style, sew the side seams of the lining as well. Place your lining into the main, wrong sides together. Going forward you will treat this as one piece. 

Front placket

Press the front placket along the first fold line, then along the second one. Pin the lining front or the unlined option pockets in the front placket fold. Stitch down and press. 

You can see today’s video below. Once you complete the steps, post a photo of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of the Lumberjack SAL album. See you back here tomorrow when we will sew the cuffs. 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 2

Welcome to day 2 of the Lumberjack sew along. Today we create and sew the chest pockets and the shoulder seams. This shirt features two optional chest pockets that tie the lumberjack look together. I would not skip them. Judy is showing you some tips to help you sew the chest pocket below.

I sew my chest pockets slightly different so definitely check out today’s video as well. I give you my tips and tricks for achieving a beautiful looking chest pocket. Once you added the chest pockets to the two front pieces, you are ready to sew the shoulder seams. 

If you are doing the lined option, you will be sewing the shoulder seam right sides together of the lining pieces as well as the main. I opted for the unlined style for my Lumberjack shirt so we will be sewing the shoulder seams using the burrito method. First, place the outer yoke and back piece right sides together. Now sandwich the back piece in between the right sides of the outer and lining yoke. Stitch in place and top stitch. Roll the back piece into a “burrito” and bring it up so that the front shoulders are sandwiched in between the RTS of the back yoke lining and main fabric. Stitch and optionally top stitch. 

You can see all these steps in today’s video. Once you complete day 2 steps, post a photo of  your progress in the comments of day 2 photo of the sew along album. See you back her tomorrow for day 3! 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 1

Welcome to the Lumberjack SEW ALONG! 

Let’s get the Lumberjack party started! If you have not purchased the Lumberjack pattern(s) you can grab them here:

Lumberjack Youth

Lumberjack Hourglass 

Lumberjack V figure

And of course, our bundle for the whole family

Before you select which style you are sewing along, take a look at the Round Up Blog where we show you all options available.

Now that you have the patterns it’s time to select which file format you would like to use. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. 

Note: The tutorial is now a separate file from the pattern pieces. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. All 3 Lumberjack shirt patterns have straight side seams and relaxed fit so it is a little more giving when it comes to grading for the waist. 

Let’s talk fabric! The Lumberjack pattern is drafted for woven fabrics like flannel, light weight denim, light weight wool or medium weight cotton woven. For the lining you can use minky, fleece, flannel, french terry, sherpa…pretty much your preferred soft, cuddly fabric. For this sew along I am using a brushed flannel that I got from Joann fabrics. For the closures I am going to add spring snaps. Buttons are an option too 😉

Day 1 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 1 photo of the Lumberjack SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group. If you sew more than one,  post each one in a separate pic!

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Kelli Dress Hacks

Straight Cut Skirt

I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.

The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.

The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).

I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece.  Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.

I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!

Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.

If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.

 

As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting.  Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.

Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial.  Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.

Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up.  Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another.  Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.

Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces.  Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.

Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely.  Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.

Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!

Nice and quick and easy.  I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

 

Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit

If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).

Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to.  Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.

It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!

 

 

New Pattern Release :: Kelli and Charli’s Dress

We’re starting of 2022 with a bang! The Kelli’s and Charli’s Dress pattern will have you feeling fabulous and glamorous throughout the year! When I put on the Kelli’s Dress I cannot help but strike a pose and smile… and I hope you feel the same when you put yours on! The Kelli’s and Charli’s Dresses have a beautiful gathered detail to the wasitline that gives a lovely and flattering line.  You can grab those thinner, dressier knits that aren’t stable enough for wiggles and galas and now have the perfect dress to use them on!

Named for one of my life long friends, Kelli’s Dress has a gorgeous gathering detail along the side seam from underbust to high hip creating a beautiful detail and flattering lines.  The cross over V neck is again a flattering open neckline, but with 4 way stretch fabrics, it can give you a lot of wiggle room to play with the neckline coverage.  Sleeve options will take you from summer to winter in a heart beat and the different lengths will take you from casual to a formal event easily.  The dramatic floor length with split is the most fun thing you’ll wear!  You cannot help but instantly feel glamourous and start striking poses.  Not wanting to show off all that leg? No problem, the floor length also has a no split option that is still stunning.  Shorter lengths are mini for a fun night out or knee for a perfect everyday look or cocktail in different fabrics. Kelli’s Dress is drafted for thin to medium stretch knits absolutely perfect for those stretchy glitter poly blends you find, double brushed poly, stretch lace, waffle knit, sweater knit, ribbed knits, light weight cotton spandex, and stretch velvet. The options for the Kelli’s Dress include:

  • Tank, Cap Sleeve, 3/4 Sleeve, and Long Sleeve
  • Mini, Knee, Floor with Slit, and Floor with No Slit (Charli’s-Youth has Knee and Floor Length only).
  • Neckline Facings or Elastic Hem

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X for the Hourglass Figure and XXS-6XL for the V Figure. *Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

KELLI AND CHARLI DRESS OPTIONS
SLEEVES :: TANK, CAP, 3/4, AND LONG
 
 
LENGTHS: KELLI’S: MINI, KNEE, FLOOR WITH SLIT, FLOOR WITH NO SLIT

 
 
LENGTHS: CHARLI’S: KNEE AND FLOOR
 
 
 
FACING NECKLINE FINISH AND ELASTIC HEM NECKLINE FINISH

I cannot wait to see everyone feeling extra special in their Charli and Kelli Dresses!  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the new patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Saturday January 15, 2022.

 CHARLI’S DRESS – YOUTH

KELLI’S DRESS- ADULT HOURGLASS FIGURE 

KELLI & CHARLI BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? You can see a few little modifactions can give you even more options HERE!

Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

 Charli’s Dress – Youth Album

Kelli’s Dress- Hourglass Album

v

2021 A Year in Review

We added 9 new patterns to the shop (21 if you count the youth and adult as separate patterns!): 

 

I truly love each and every pattern we put out this year! Here  are  free  patterns  we  gave  this  year as well: 

The freebies will always remain free and will always be there if you don’t want to save them to your own device/cloud/etc. What else did we do this year? How about some special events we held…

Or what Sew A Longs we put on?

You can find each Sew A Long on our blog and as a playlist on our YouTube Channel!

I always love to see what the most popular, previously released patterns are through the year as well! In order of popularity:

Our most popular freebies this year were: Peg Legs, Walk the Plank- Adult , and Peg Leg Add-ons.  Our most loved new freebie was the Fingerless Gloves. 

 

Our blog is run mostly by the wonderful Alex- you know her from our Sew A Longs! But we also have a team of contributors who help up write up blogs… together we managed to put out 9 more P4P University blog posts…these are great beginner blogs answering the questions we see asked the most frequently in the P4P FB group! So, if you ever have a basic sewing question hop onto the P4P blog and use that search… we are working on having the answers for you!  

P4P University added this year: Using a Projector for Sewing, Tips and Tricks for Sewing Curves, Color Blocking Tips, Adjusting for Height, Facings, Understitching and Topstitching, Adding Trims to Hems, and Interfacing 101 .  You can also find all the P4P University blogs rounded up in the FB Group Album!

Here are a few more highlights from the different Social Media outlets we use to keep you in the loop! If you follow me on each one you will notice I use them all slightly differently. I tend to share more selfies, in the moment/candid pictures and sneak peeks on my Instagram. I use the Facebook Group and Page to announce new patterns, sales, etc. I use the Blog to keep all details from everything from new patterns, sales, how tos, hacks, etc. The YouTube channel of course has all our videos from sew a longs, P4P universities, and tutorial videos as well.  I finally caved and joined TikTok for some reels.  

 

Thank you to all the new followers, members, etc and for everyone who was here already and stayed with us! I appreciate each and every single one of the follows, members, subscribers, etc!

I’m excited to see what 2022 will bring for Patterns for Pirates as well- I wish you all a Happy New Year!

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